Category: Footsteps

Capel-y-ffin

Getting to Capel-y-ffin (the Chapel at the end) is not easy. We drove to Llanthony and then along the valley following a narrow windy lane for over 2 miles; parking is restricted. A red kite swooped over us as we travelled. This and the sight of a cyclist (male) in day glow pink leggings and baby pink shoes assured us of an interesting day. Indeed we were following in the footsteps of William and Dorothy Wordsworth; this was one of their favourite areas to walk. Bruce Chatwin used to cycle here as a child, he later called it one of the emotional centres of his life.

Setting out along the road we crossed Nant Bwch to follow Afon Honddu and could see a large building, to the west, in the distance. This was the Grange, a monastery and ruined chapel built by Joseph Leycester Lyne, known as Father Ignatius, in 1870. He tried to reintroduce the monastic tradition to the Anglican Church. His builders took advantage of his unsuspecting nature and skimped on foundations, damp proofing etc. The monastic idyll disintegrated along with the buildings and the chapel is fenced off with a ‘Dangerous structure’ sign. The monastery is now a trekking centre.

Soon we were climbing a fairly steep hill to the south eastern end of the ridge. As we rested to look back at the glorious view of the valley towards Llanthony we met a group of 4 young men coming down. They had come from Birmingham and were walking to Hay-On-Wye (10miles). One of them, an Italian, was blown away by the beauty of the place – he didn’t know this country held such treasures.

The path along the ridge was easy though slightly uphill. Dark clouds gathered in the sky creating a dramatic atmosphere. The boggiest section was paved and the surrounding area covered in lines of fleeces. Apparently they help the land to recover. At the end of the ridge, Lord Hereford’s Knob, the spectacular view opened up to the northwest across relatively flat land and you could see for miles. It was lunchtime and we were ready to eat but a fierce wind had got up and we continued to an outcrop of rocks a little to the southwest. Even the rocks couldn’t protect us so we turned our backs on the view and started down the valley. In no time we were on the banks of a small stream in the sunshine – lovely.

The descent through the valley was gorgeous. A herd of ponies and their foals tossed their manes in the wind. In the protected valley, Nant Bwch shimmered in the sun and heather clad banks glowed. The sheep were the whitest I had ever seen and stones beside tributaries also glowed white in places (presumably limestone). And it was so quiet it was heavenly. We had heard no cars, aeroplanes or other manmade noise (apart from voices) all day and only met a handful of people.

Crossing Nant Bwch we walked along a lane passing Talsarn Farm and the Grange to come back into Capel-y-ffin. Walk 7miles 1500ft ascent. Map OL13

 

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Llanthony

We parked at Llanthony Priory, in the care of Cadw and freely open to the public. The hamlet of Llanthony nestles in the heart of the beautiful Vale of Ewyas. This is the easternmost valley of the Black mountains, described by Gerald of Wales in 1188 as ‘encircled on all sides by lofty mountains, but no more than three arrow shots in width’.

Here in this remote and tranquil valley an Augustinian priory was founded early in the 12th century. A wealthy nobleman, William de Lacy, sheltered in the ruined Celtic chapel of St David, and overcome by devotion decided to found the priory. The Augustinians, popularly known as Black Canons from the colour of their outer garments, were organised on monastic lines but were ordained priests going out to preach and hold services in nearby churches. Nothing remains of the original buildings as the monks were forced to retreat to Hereford and Gloucester by attacks from the primarily English community. The structures visible today date from the 13th century, when the priory was re-established and the Priory church built. Completed around 1230, it was closed 300 years later by Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monasteries. Later a house, now a hotel, was built amongst the ruins where the monks once lived and worshipped.

As soon as we got out of the cars we could hear the loud reverberations of bleating sheep. Nearly all of us peeped over the stone wall (it was high) surrounding the car park to find a huge flock of hundreds of sheep on the other side – had they been brought down for shearing or market?

We walked past the priory taking the footpath towards Hatterall Ridge; it is quite steep in places but a lovely climb on good grass paths which narrow near the top due to bracken. We glanced back at the priory as we climbed and it appeared to shrink while the panorama of the countryside grew. The sweeping upland moorland is shaped by livestock grazing and traditional practices such as heather burning. Here a very special moth, the Silurian Moth, makes its home. The spring buds and leaves of the bilberry plant (known locally as the ‘whimberry’) feed the moth. The purple berries can be foraged by humans but they weren’t quite ripe enough for us. A sign reminded us that by law dogs must be kept on a lead between 1st March and 31st July and whenever livestock is nearby. This practice protects ground nesting birds such as red grouse.

A cairn marked the point at which we met the Offa’s Dyke path, the border between England and Wales. As we progressed along the ridge grazing horses came into view and larks briefly soared. On the side of the next ridge, in Wales, were curious circles shown clearly in the landscape we wondered how and for what purpose they were created. In one photograph I can count 17 of these circles and they seem to be connected by narrow tracks. A mystery!

We strode quite quickly along the ridge as the path is a pavement and thoroughly enjoyed the unusual freedom of not having to look where we were stepping. We took in the view around us: on our right and east, England relatively flat with rolling farmland and to our left, the wild hills of Wales and the Brecon Beacons National Park.

At a large cairn we stopped for a time contemplating and then turned towards Wales, starting our descent through the bracken covered hillside. We lost height quickly and came to a signpost directing us to Capel y Ffin. Now that we were lower the temperature rose and we enjoyed the local flora including some splendid foxgloves and thistles.

Arriving in the valley we disturbed a couple of black sheep, hiding in the bracken, and climbing a stile followed the road back to Llanthony. One of us had camped here many years ago and was able to share stories of all the various haunts they had explored.

On reaching Llanthony we walked around the ruins of the priory and the church of St David’s. A sign stated ‘Welcome to St David’s built on the earlier site of the monastic cell of St David, patron saint of Wales. This is one of the ancient and holy sites of Wales and has welcomed pilgrims throughout its history.’ It had a peaceful atmosphere andone of its stained glass windows has a white dove against a rich blue background – beautiful.

Walk7.25miles 1200ft ascent. Map OL13

 

 

 

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Brecon Nature Reserve and Hidden Valley

We parked in the lay-by, on A470, at Brecon Nature reserve about a mile north of Storey Arms. A notice stated ‘In just a few hundred metres you will find yourself enclosed within a shady, atmospheric amphitheatre created by the soaring craggy cliffs of Craig Cerrig Gleisiad. The lofty exposed moorland of Fan Frynach separates this area from a second, equally spectacular curtain of cliffs at Craig Cwm Du. The steep rocky slopes, sharp escarpments and crags are home to rare arctic-alpine plants at their southernmost location in the UK and not found again until the Alps. A history of lower levels of grazing has resulted in a richer variety of wildflowers in the reserve compared with surrounding areas of the National Park.’

‘A glacier carved out this valley during the last ice age. As it melted about 18,000 years ago it exposed the steep rock walls of Craig Cerrig Gleisiad. Sometime later a catastrophic landslide cascaded millions of tonnes of rock from these crags down the slopes. You can still see the tension cracks in the bedrock. The extent of this landslide is visible as the steep bank you can see from the A470. Up until 11,500 years ago a smaller glacier occupied the back of the hollow, leaving a series of ridges of small rocks and debris called moraines.’

We took the right hand path, climbing immediately and were soon in the ‘amphitheatre’. We were wrapped in a silence broken only by birdsong. The place felt so peaceful and the whole area was covered in swathes of bluebells. Larks soared as we passed and the harsh call of members of the crow family echoed from the heights.

Gazing at the awesome hills around us their height seemed daunting but we gradually moved through the Nature reserve and found ourselves at Carnedd Cairn, 1 mile into the walk with a climb of 1,000ft under our belts – the hardest climb of the walk.

It was a fairly flat walk to the trig point at Fan Frynach(629m), where we took in the spectacular views: to the east Pen y Fan and to the west, in the distance, Carmarthen Fan with rolling farmland to the north and below us in the next valley.

We started to descend and after about 200 metres picked up a good path heading north to connect with Sarn Helen (a Roman metalled road which continues to Ystradfellte and its waterfalls). The path was well defined with a ditch at the side, a farm track perhaps or an old drover’s road? But looking at the land rising away from us we could see paths across it at regular intervals – so most probably old forestry commission land which has been returned to its

‘original’ state. We watched a pair of red kites soaring above us until they were driven away by crows.

On Sarn Helen we met a farmer sitting side-saddle on an off-roader with her 2 dogs. Soon a motor cyclist kicking up loads of dust approached us, closely followed by 4 more that slowed down and exchanged smiles.

Now we arrived at the Cwm Du valley, time for lunch; we walked a short way and sat beside the stream, Nant Cwm-du. The land was dotted with distinctive craggy trees sculpted by the harsh climate. We were enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, listening to the babble of the stream and watching a tiny caterpillar which wafted in front of us on an invisible thread. The silence was destroyed by the sound of a car engine, as a number of 4x4s drove along Sarn Helen. They were soon gone and peace reigned.

Walking up the valley, beside the stream, was easy to start, then and as we climbed became more difficult, making us crisscross the stream, until eventually we came to a waterfall, a vertical edge with excellent footholds enabling a climb out of the valley. We rested near the top on a large flat rock to admire the valley and absorb the atmosphere of the place. Then up to the Beacons Way – so nice to be on a footpath again and Pen y Fan came back into view.

Soon we were facing a steep descent back to the A470, taking a zigzag path on the steepest sections we eventually got to the bottom. Looking back at it was scary!

Throughout the walk we had heard the call of the cuckoo, we had seen lots of wildflowers, including tormentil, welsh poppies (not in flower), violets, speedwell and saxifrage. There were very few sheep and quite a few horses grazing the area. The weather was perfect, hardly any wind, cloudy with occasional weak sunshine, excellent visibility, cool temperature and most importantly – no rain. We had seen only 6 other walkers all day – a brilliant day. Walk 6½ miles, ascent 2000ft. MapOL12.

 

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Coed Morgannwg Way above Hirwaun

It was a lovely morning but as we got out of the cars, at the Mynydd Beili-glas viewpoint, we did a group shiver – the wind chill factor really hit us and we quickly set out so that we could warm up.

It had been a week of wintry showers and the ground around us still had snow lying in patches. We were close to Graig a Llyn, the highest point in Glamorgan at 1969ft and below us we could see the road snaking up the hill, with a white car roaring up round the bends, as if it was in a Grand Prix.

We could also see Llyn Fawr, a lake which was made into a reservoir in 1911. When this was done a number of ancient objects were found in the peat at the water’s edge. These became known as the Llyn Fawr hoard and include 2 large bronze cauldrons, bronze axes, sickles and a sword. Probably dating from around 600BC they are among the most important Iron Age objects found in Wales; they are now in the National Museum, Cardiff.

Initially we walked on natural footpaths which soon became roadways for the vehicles which installed the Pen Y Cymoedd wind farm. One advantage of the wider tracks was that we had good views all day.

 

We decided to take a slight detour from our route to visit a memorial stone at the spot where the body of Willy Llewellyn, aged 5 years, was found. He was lost in Aberaman on 11th April 1902 and his remains found on 26th April, after a search by the whole community. Offerings of coins and small toys were on the stone.

We passed through areas where the trees had been decimated by fire and maybe the road building but new saplings were springing up. For lunch we found a protected area, sitting on tree stumps and fallen trunks, enjoying the sunshine. Tiny red flowers of moss covered one of the stumps. Bright yellow flowers of coltsfoot decorated the ground as we continued.

Now the 500ft wind turbines were towering around us. A series of notice boards provided information on the wind farm – 76 wind turbines produce an estimated output of 256MW. Natural Resources Wales state that there are 211 wind turbines planned for the Welsh woodland estate. The estimated output is 663MW (enough to power over 416,000 homes). The turbine footprint will be 450 hectares of land not replanted (20% of the estate). [Aberthaw Power Station generating capacity 1,560MW]

We met no walkers all day but a few cyclists, one of whom stopped us and asked for directions – he’d bought a map online and it was ‘being delivered tomorrow’.

Soon we arrived at the wind farm electricity sub-station where a large electrical installation loomed over us like a huge robot. From here we walked along a road through a forest of wind turbines and returned to the cars via our original footpath. The peaks of Pen y Fan and Corn Ddu in the distance were both covered in snow.

Hirwaun (long meadow) Common below us was gifted to the people for free grazing of their animals. Also in sight was the Tower colliery, closed as uneconomic in 1994 but run as a co-operative by the miners for a further 13 years until the coal finally ran out in 2008. Walk 8miles ascent 800ft. Map 166.

 

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Dyffryn

The midweek walkers parked near the quarry man’s tribute and kept south of the St Lythan Road. Walking past one of the Wenvoe Wildlife Group orchards, people commented on the progress that had been made here and then walked north and west towards Dyffryn.

The sky which had been getting darker by the minute opened up and a deluge of hail descended on our heads. A few had umbrellas which were soon covered in ice with slush dripping off their edges. After cooling us down the shower passed on and the sky brightened a little only to be followed by another shower. Passing through a wood a flash of lightning was discounted momentarily but a rumble of thunder followed – at least the storm wasn’t near us.

At Dyffryn the warmth and hot drinks available were very welcome and we stayed quite a while. Then we walked up to the A48 and through The Downs, across open land and back to the cars. A lovely walk enlivened by the weather. Distance about 5.5mile

 

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Parc Cefn Onn.

The park was closed as they are installing ramps and a diversion skirts the eastern edge of the park. In February, Camellias were in full flower and the red trunks of Acers stood out.

Entering open countryside we climbed onto the ridge and walked parallel to the coast. Views extended west of Wenvoe to Penarth, the whole of Cardiff and beyond. We passed an old gnarled, hollowed out tree and a boundary wall dripping with moss.

Climbing through the woodland at Coed Coesau, most of the trees had lots of exposed roots. Curiously large metal hawser-like ropes looped from tree to tree at the edge of the path.

At lunch time we climbed to the top of a crag enjoying views of Caerphilly Mountain to the north and the coast to the south.

Our return journey followed the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway footpath. In one section a steep descent was negotiated via a long stretch of steps.

The path passes over Caerphilly railway tunnel which was built by Rhymney Valley railway to avoid paying to use tracks owned by Taff Vale railway. The tunnel is over 1 mile in length. Construction was started from 5 shafts sunk from the surface of the mountain. These are now ventilation shafts but originally provided access and pumped out vast quantities of water which were a continual problem for the tunnellers. They were also the scene of fatal accidents; a man was crushed by machinery in No. 4 shaft and seven men died in No. 3 shaft when the skip, in which they were descending, fell down the full length of the shaft. Hidden deep in a manmade valley lies what was formerly Cefn Onn Halt, near the entrance to the tunnel.

A large bank of daffodils at the entrance to the park glowed on an overcast but warm day, with a cool breeze at lunchtime. The walk was 7.4 miles 750ft ascent. Map 151.

 

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Parc Cwm Darran.

Parc Cwm Darran lies at the site of the Ogilvie colliery where coal was mined from 1923 until 1975. We started by walking along the Ogilvie lake. There are a few sculptures to the side of the path and numerous pieces of outdoor gym equipment (the Ogilvie Olympics obstacle course) together with old mine wheels. We climbed in an easterly direction away from the park and took a slight diversion to look at a waterfall and moments later we were at the top of it. Continuing our climb we spotted a farm with birds in its yard – geese, ducks and hens. In the distance we could see cows and sheep chasing after a tractor delivering food.

Entering a wooded area, we turned south. The bare trunks of the trees created a picturesque scene around us.

A Grave Yard has a stone marking the entrance: ‘site of Tegernacus inscribed stone removed to the National Museum of Wales for preservation’. A replica declares ‘Here lies Tegernacus, son of Martius’. The original stone probably dates back to the early 7thC but may be much older marking the grave of a Roman soldier from their campaign in the area 47 – 113 AD. There is also the Capel Brithdir Monument now housed in St Gwladys church, Bargoed and a Celtic cross.

We descended to a stream near Pen y Garreg farm and from here started our return travelling generally north. The farmer must have a sense of humour – a sign said ‘Warning Do Not Feed the Moose’.

Further evidence of the Roman presence in the area was found at Caradoc’s Bridge, near Deri. Caradoc was a Silurian leader who fought against the Roman occupation in Wales but was eventually captured and taken to Rome.

We passed under a road bridge, with a fast flowing stream running beside an excellent path. We followed a river for a short distance and climbed to Twyn y Fidffawydd (hillock of the beech hedge). At this point, about 1 mile from the end of the walk, a fine rain started to fall. We picked up our speed and headed along the ridge bracing ourselves against a strong cross wind. Then down into the valley and shelter from the wind. The day had been mostly overcast with occasional weak sunshine, a good walk with lots of variety and decent paths throughout. Walk 7.7 miles ascent 1800ft. Map 166.

 

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Llanharan

What a contrast to the Craig yr Allt walk, it had snowed and the sun was shining so visibility was great but it was very cold. We voted to go to Llanharan and walk in the snow to the wind turbines. Parking in the station car park, we climbed a short way along a road and were soon crunching over icy snow which had partially melted and frozen again overnight.

Paths had to be carefully negotiated in places as puddles had become icy stretches. Our route took us across to Llantrisant Forest. Climbing we could see the wind turbines against the clear blue sky ahead. Flocks of sheep were scratching for grass below the snow.

As we walked through the woodland we were surrounded by ‘Christmas’ trees blanketed in snow. Sunlight shone between the rows of trees.

In the valley we spotted a single turbine with a green stem and yellow fins, like a daffodil. We stopped for lunch on the edge of woodland beside a small stream with some ice. As we got close to the wind turbines many parallel lines of power cables stretching from pylon to pylon covered the landscape. In front of the wind turbines the snow lay in deep drifts at the side of the path.

Walking back towards Brynna woods, England was clearly visible across a sparkling English Channel. Once again the snow lay in deep drifts alongside the path and walls were patterned by windblown snow. Reaching a road we met a horse rider who commented that she was cold. It was a lot colder on the top! We returned to Llanharan via Brynna woods and Llanharan Marsh – a Community Nature Reserve.

The walk was refreshing and uplifting after so many gloomy winter days. Distance covered 8 miles with 1100ft ascent

 

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