Category: Footsteps

Coed Morgannwg Way above Hirwaun

It was a lovely morning but as we got out of the cars, at the Mynydd Beili-glas viewpoint, we did a group shiver – the wind chill factor really hit us and we quickly set out so that we could warm up.

It had been a week of wintry showers and the ground around us still had snow lying in patches. We were close to Graig a Llyn, the highest point in Glamorgan at 1969ft and below us we could see the road snaking up the hill, with a white car roaring up round the bends, as if it was in a Grand Prix.

We could also see Llyn Fawr, a lake which was made into a reservoir in 1911. When this was done a number of ancient objects were found in the peat at the water’s edge. These became known as the Llyn Fawr hoard and include 2 large bronze cauldrons, bronze axes, sickles and a sword. Probably dating from around 600BC they are among the most important Iron Age objects found in Wales; they are now in the National Museum, Cardiff.

Initially we walked on natural footpaths which soon became roadways for the vehicles which installed the Pen Y Cymoedd wind farm. One advantage of the wider tracks was that we had good views all day.

 

We decided to take a slight detour from our route to visit a memorial stone at the spot where the body of Willy Llewellyn, aged 5 years, was found. He was lost in Aberaman on 11th April 1902 and his remains found on 26th April, after a search by the whole community. Offerings of coins and small toys were on the stone.

We passed through areas where the trees had been decimated by fire and maybe the road building but new saplings were springing up. For lunch we found a protected area, sitting on tree stumps and fallen trunks, enjoying the sunshine. Tiny red flowers of moss covered one of the stumps. Bright yellow flowers of coltsfoot decorated the ground as we continued.

Now the 500ft wind turbines were towering around us. A series of notice boards provided information on the wind farm – 76 wind turbines produce an estimated output of 256MW. Natural Resources Wales state that there are 211 wind turbines planned for the Welsh woodland estate. The estimated output is 663MW (enough to power over 416,000 homes). The turbine footprint will be 450 hectares of land not replanted (20% of the estate). [Aberthaw Power Station generating capacity 1,560MW]

We met no walkers all day but a few cyclists, one of whom stopped us and asked for directions – he’d bought a map online and it was ‘being delivered tomorrow’.

Soon we arrived at the wind farm electricity sub-station where a large electrical installation loomed over us like a huge robot. From here we walked along a road through a forest of wind turbines and returned to the cars via our original footpath. The peaks of Pen y Fan and Corn Ddu in the distance were both covered in snow.

Hirwaun (long meadow) Common below us was gifted to the people for free grazing of their animals. Also in sight was the Tower colliery, closed as uneconomic in 1994 but run as a co-operative by the miners for a further 13 years until the coal finally ran out in 2008. Walk 8miles ascent 800ft. Map 166.

 

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Dyffryn

The midweek walkers parked near the quarry man’s tribute and kept south of the St Lythan Road. Walking past one of the Wenvoe Wildlife Group orchards, people commented on the progress that had been made here and then walked north and west towards Dyffryn.

The sky which had been getting darker by the minute opened up and a deluge of hail descended on our heads. A few had umbrellas which were soon covered in ice with slush dripping off their edges. After cooling us down the shower passed on and the sky brightened a little only to be followed by another shower. Passing through a wood a flash of lightning was discounted momentarily but a rumble of thunder followed – at least the storm wasn’t near us.

At Dyffryn the warmth and hot drinks available were very welcome and we stayed quite a while. Then we walked up to the A48 and through The Downs, across open land and back to the cars. A lovely walk enlivened by the weather. Distance about 5.5mile

 

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Parc Cefn Onn.

The park was closed as they are installing ramps and a diversion skirts the eastern edge of the park. In February, Camellias were in full flower and the red trunks of Acers stood out.

Entering open countryside we climbed onto the ridge and walked parallel to the coast. Views extended west of Wenvoe to Penarth, the whole of Cardiff and beyond. We passed an old gnarled, hollowed out tree and a boundary wall dripping with moss.

Climbing through the woodland at Coed Coesau, most of the trees had lots of exposed roots. Curiously large metal hawser-like ropes looped from tree to tree at the edge of the path.

At lunch time we climbed to the top of a crag enjoying views of Caerphilly Mountain to the north and the coast to the south.

Our return journey followed the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway footpath. In one section a steep descent was negotiated via a long stretch of steps.

The path passes over Caerphilly railway tunnel which was built by Rhymney Valley railway to avoid paying to use tracks owned by Taff Vale railway. The tunnel is over 1 mile in length. Construction was started from 5 shafts sunk from the surface of the mountain. These are now ventilation shafts but originally provided access and pumped out vast quantities of water which were a continual problem for the tunnellers. They were also the scene of fatal accidents; a man was crushed by machinery in No. 4 shaft and seven men died in No. 3 shaft when the skip, in which they were descending, fell down the full length of the shaft. Hidden deep in a manmade valley lies what was formerly Cefn Onn Halt, near the entrance to the tunnel.

A large bank of daffodils at the entrance to the park glowed on an overcast but warm day, with a cool breeze at lunchtime. The walk was 7.4 miles 750ft ascent. Map 151.

 

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Parc Cwm Darran.

Parc Cwm Darran lies at the site of the Ogilvie colliery where coal was mined from 1923 until 1975. We started by walking along the Ogilvie lake. There are a few sculptures to the side of the path and numerous pieces of outdoor gym equipment (the Ogilvie Olympics obstacle course) together with old mine wheels. We climbed in an easterly direction away from the park and took a slight diversion to look at a waterfall and moments later we were at the top of it. Continuing our climb we spotted a farm with birds in its yard – geese, ducks and hens. In the distance we could see cows and sheep chasing after a tractor delivering food.

Entering a wooded area, we turned south. The bare trunks of the trees created a picturesque scene around us.

A Grave Yard has a stone marking the entrance: ‘site of Tegernacus inscribed stone removed to the National Museum of Wales for preservation’. A replica declares ‘Here lies Tegernacus, son of Martius’. The original stone probably dates back to the early 7thC but may be much older marking the grave of a Roman soldier from their campaign in the area 47 – 113 AD. There is also the Capel Brithdir Monument now housed in St Gwladys church, Bargoed and a Celtic cross.

We descended to a stream near Pen y Garreg farm and from here started our return travelling generally north. The farmer must have a sense of humour – a sign said ‘Warning Do Not Feed the Moose’.

Further evidence of the Roman presence in the area was found at Caradoc’s Bridge, near Deri. Caradoc was a Silurian leader who fought against the Roman occupation in Wales but was eventually captured and taken to Rome.

We passed under a road bridge, with a fast flowing stream running beside an excellent path. We followed a river for a short distance and climbed to Twyn y Fidffawydd (hillock of the beech hedge). At this point, about 1 mile from the end of the walk, a fine rain started to fall. We picked up our speed and headed along the ridge bracing ourselves against a strong cross wind. Then down into the valley and shelter from the wind. The day had been mostly overcast with occasional weak sunshine, a good walk with lots of variety and decent paths throughout. Walk 7.7 miles ascent 1800ft. Map 166.

 

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Llanharan

What a contrast to the Craig yr Allt walk, it had snowed and the sun was shining so visibility was great but it was very cold. We voted to go to Llanharan and walk in the snow to the wind turbines. Parking in the station car park, we climbed a short way along a road and were soon crunching over icy snow which had partially melted and frozen again overnight.

Paths had to be carefully negotiated in places as puddles had become icy stretches. Our route took us across to Llantrisant Forest. Climbing we could see the wind turbines against the clear blue sky ahead. Flocks of sheep were scratching for grass below the snow.

As we walked through the woodland we were surrounded by ‘Christmas’ trees blanketed in snow. Sunlight shone between the rows of trees.

In the valley we spotted a single turbine with a green stem and yellow fins, like a daffodil. We stopped for lunch on the edge of woodland beside a small stream with some ice. As we got close to the wind turbines many parallel lines of power cables stretching from pylon to pylon covered the landscape. In front of the wind turbines the snow lay in deep drifts at the side of the path.

Walking back towards Brynna woods, England was clearly visible across a sparkling English Channel. Once again the snow lay in deep drifts alongside the path and walls were patterned by windblown snow. Reaching a road we met a horse rider who commented that she was cold. It was a lot colder on the top! We returned to Llanharan via Brynna woods and Llanharan Marsh – a Community Nature Reserve.

The walk was refreshing and uplifting after so many gloomy winter days. Distance covered 8 miles with 1100ft ascent

 

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Craig yr Allt

It was a misty morning as we travelled to Tongwynlais. Driving to the top of Heol y Fforest we parked at a picnic spot feeling pleased that we had climbed a fair way before starting the walk.

The mist thickened as we headed roughly west, following a track that took us to the sculpture trail in the woodland above Castell Coch. The sculptures are wooden portrayals of nature, trees, birds, wild animals and even insects; an excellent place to entertain children. We took our time examining each piece. Unfortunately the signage on them is showing the effects of weathering and some were difficult to read. I particularly liked a seat whose back was the outstretched wings of two birds with this sign:

 

 

‘These creatures are gone from the forest now

But the ones who live here today can be found

There’s badgers and dormice and buzzards I’ve heard

Goshawks, owls and other woodland birds!’

Now we headed for the Taff trail travelling north on our way to Craig yr Allt where we were promised views across to the Garth and Castell Coch and Cardiff to the south. Taking a path east we had a steady climb across open grassland which was pretty muddy in places. At the top we disappeared into fog and imagined the views we were meant to enjoy by looking at an App which named hills as you pointed a phone in their direction! There was something cosy about being wrapped in a blanket of fog, as it created a great atmosphere (and we knew exactly where we were).

Not long after we started to descend visibility cleared enough for us to see around us. The green-yellow catkins of a birch tree looked cheerful in the gloom. Black sheep were difficult to spot as they sat under a copse of trees about 100yards from us; it was only their white faces that gave them away.

We stopped for lunch in a field, sitting on tree trunks under beech trees and relishing the peaceful atmosphere. As we ate we glanced back, noticing that the fog had lifted on Craig yr Allt and we joked about walking back up to see the view (which was still swathed in mist).

We made our way to the Forest Tea Rooms, catching a brief glimpse, through the trees, of Castell Coch. At the tea rooms we enjoyed comfy seats and welcome refreshment. We returned to the cars via a leafy track above Heol y Fforest.

The walk was 7 miles. Map 151

 

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On a sunny morning in late October, we parked in Clydach and we walked east along the Swansea canal, with reflections of trees in its still waters.

The canal was built to serve collieries, iron works and copper works in the Tawe valley. The first section opened in 1796; its final length was 16½ miles and included 5 aqueducts to carry the canal across the river Tawe, at Pontardawe, Ynysmeudwy, Ystralyfera and Cwmgiedd. One section, the Trewyddfa canal, was privately owned by the Duke of Beaufort who charged a toll.

We passed the heritage centre in Coed Gwilym Park, where metallic outlines of three figures stand. The towpath is easy walking and we soon found another ‘sculpture’, a bicycle marooned on top of a tall tree trunk (the towpath is a cycle trail). A little later we spotted a rhododendron bush in full flower.

The river Tawe soon came into view and we walked a short distance between the river and canal. We crossed a bridge and after following the canal for a while, headed uphill away from Trebanog towards Gellionen. A flock of handsome goats in a field next to the footpath were very friendly coming up to the fence and standing on their hind legs to eye us up whilst another (the nanny?) stood/sat on a nearby picnic table.

As we continued we enjoyed extensive views of Swansea Bay with thick fluffy white clouds on the distant horizon. At Gellionen there is a chapel ‘for the use of the society of protestant dissenters’. It was erected in 1692 and rebuilt in 1801 when an ancient carved stone, part of a Celtic cross (from 8th century Llan Eithrim church), was set into an outside wall. The stone is now in Swansea museum. As we left the chapel we went through a gate with a sign which said ‘Welcome – Croeso please take care of this stunning place’.

We continued northwest crossing moorland and passed close to (but didn’t see as although only 50 yards from the footpath it is a difficult place to find) Carn Llechart. Believed to be about 3500 years old, it is one of the finest examples of a stone ring cairn or burial chamber in Wales. It has 25 low stones set close together and leaning outwards with a shattered stone lined cist (coffin) towards the centre.

 

Now we headed west and downhill alongside a stream towards the Lower Clydach River. We entered woodland which was shaded and cool. At the river we scrambled across rocks or sat on grassy hummocks to find a spot to relax and eat our lunch.

Cwm Clydach RSPB Reserve established in 1987 is mixed broadleaf woodland with a wide variety of bird species present all year. These include Buzzard, Red Kite, Green and Great Spotted Woodpecker, Nuthatch, Tree Creeper, Bull finch Dipper and Grey Wagtail. Otters have returned to the river, a sign of how much cleaner it is.

Until 1962 much of Cwm Clydach was a working coal mining valley. The largest colliery was opened in 1863, known locally as ‘Nixons’ it was one of the main employers. It produced 115,000 tons of saleable coal a year. It was a rock top colliery but as it was virtually gas free, the boilers to raise the haulage engines were underground, as was a blacksmith’s shop, which was rare in a colliery.

The path through Cwm Clydach was covered in warm brown leaves and the sun shone through the trees which had dropped most of their leaves. We passed the remains of many abandoned buildings, some with streams tumbling over them – a reminder of the area’s industrial past. We passed the village of Craig-Cefn-Parc. Its name is thought to mean rocks behind the enclosure. Craig probably refers to small quarries that were in the area. Cefn Parc (meaning at the back of the enclosure) is the name of an old farm at the top of the village – its name suggests that it was at the edge of a Manorial Lord’s enclosure. Even now it is the last farm before you reach the open common.

We continued along the river through housing and passed a large weir. Walking over a bridge over the river we could see the lower Clydach Aqueduct where the canal joins the lower Clydach River and the River Tawe. Now we were back alongside the canal and returned to our cars, passing signs of the restoration work which the Swansea Canal Society are undertaking.

Our walk was 7.7 miles in length with 700ft of ascent. OS Map 165.

 

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Clyne Valley

We parked in lower Sketty, Swansea near the recycling centre and headed generally northwest through Clyne Valley Country Park. The land near the path was once a rubbish tip and before that a spoil heap from the Clyne Valley Colliery (closed 1921). Coal mining was the first industry in the valley starting as early as 1305.

Fallen leaves covered the path at our feet and sunshine brightened up the day occasionally.

We walked along the route of an old railway and passed under a bridge. Meandering through Clyne wood we found a stream and the sealed entrance to a mine. We spotted a fallen tree covered in frilly bracket fungi and another long tree trunk covered in ferns.

As we neared Clyne park magnolia trees with huge leaves occasionally appeared. A few trees retained their autumnal colours. At Black Pill we saw Clyne castle (built by a millionaire in 1860 by extending a house) and entered the park. Walking to the top of the park, we sat on benches in an open area facing the sea. There was a cold wind blowing and in the distance we could see the wind whipping up the surface of the sea. Several of us jumped up quickly to catch sandwich wrappers and even hats before they disappeared. What a fabulous spot to sit on a warm day but we ate quickly and moved on.

Streams meander through the park and the planting is similar to Cefn Onn in Cardiff but more extensive. A red Italian bridge sits across a stream. We arrived at the seafront and then made our way back to the cars. The castle and grounds are owned by Swansea University.

Our walk was 6.75 miles, 650ft climb. Map 164.

 

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Clytha Park and River Usk.

The notice board at the National Trust car park in Clytha Park offers two walks 2.5 or 5.5 miles. Combining them created a walk of 7.75 miles with a 500ft climb.

We set off on a late autumn morning; the weather was grey but dry. A path led us into farmland where two vehicles were ploughing the land, one turning it over the second producing tilth. Footpath signs were good and at one point giant arrows were painted on two trees where the path went between them. We crossed a couple of fields of mangel-wurzels and passed a white house with a veranda. The path followed an avenue of beech trees and an area of parkland with cows grazing.

Southeast of the car park is Clytha castle with its circular corners and squat towers.

We continued past a wood towards Clytha Hill with distant views of Sugar Loaf. The trees glowed with their glorious leaf colours.

At Coed y Bwnydd secreted atop the hill is possibly the best preserved Iron Age hill fort in Monmouthshire with human activity stretching back 2000 years. The fort’s defensive banks and ditches are clearly visible. They helped to protect the inhabitants from attack by other tribes and animals such as wolves and bears. Roundhouses have been excavated here. The main sounds today are birdsong but 2000 years ago you might have heard axes chopping, people chattering (there was some of that today as we passed through), sheep and hens and the clunk of metal being worked. Wild boar or deer might have been roasting on wood and charcoal fires, their aromas filling the air.

We continued to the village of Bettws Newydd, finding a fascinating wall with large chunks of stone of different sizes in amongst horizontal flat stones. The church porch had a coffin stretcher on its rafters. A piece of wood had a poem written on it (by N.N. in 2009):

‘The Bettws Yew

The star which shone on Bethlehem shone on this noble tree

It stood here still in Norman times when knights claimed their victory

As King Charles lost his head this tree made growth anew

Thanks be to God that we still have our Bettwys Yew.’

We headed west towards the river Usk, passing through farmland where we saw calves, trees heavy with mistletoe (common in Monmouthshire) and an old tree which had grown around a piece of metal fencing entirely engulfing it. After passing Trostrey Lodge we came to the riverside and followed it back to the car park. Map OL13.

 

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Kilpeck Church

We parked at Kilpeck church, a few miles south of Hereford, and went straight to the church. It is a 12th century building with wonderful original features. Corbels (89 of them) decorate the edge of the roof; the images cover a wide range from a bird pecking a smaller bird, Celtic knots, Sheelagh-na-gig, hound and hare, serpents and some strange creatures which are difficult to identify. Then there is the entrance door. Although there is no porch it is in an amazing state of repair. The stone prights and arch, of the doorway, are covered in carvings including dragons and the tree of life. The door itself is solid wood with huge metalwork holding the door together and bolted through the door to giant hinges. A lot of the furniture within the church is Victorian but the architecture is 12th C – 14thC. There is a minstrel’s gallery; its origin is a mystery as the staircase leading to it is Victorian but it may be Elizabethan or Jacobean. The former seems likely as that was when music in churches became more sophisticated and wooden galleries at the west end of churches became popular.

The church probably survived so well because of the village’s unfortunate history. The population was devastated by famine and the Black Death in the 14thC. Hence the church remained small and unknown for many centuries. When it was renovated in the 19thC the architect, Lewis Nockalls Cottingham, was sensitive to the Romanesque original design. There are windows designed by Pugin.

The area around Kilpeck had been known as Ergyng when it was a small Welsh kingdom. Later it became part of the Welsh marches and was renamed Archenfield. In 1086 a timber castle was built to establish Norman rule in the area. Although a stone castle replaced the original, little remains of Kilpeck castle sat on a mound to the west of the church.

Now we set off on our walk travelling in a generally southerly direction towards Marlas and then Bagwyllydiart. It was a lovely late autumn day and the countryside soft and rolling made a very pleasant stroll. The views were extensive but now and again mists rolled across the hills creating fascinating scenes.

At Bagwyllydiart we turned northeast, going towards Orcop Hill. This stretch of the walk was mainly on a quiet road and we could see the hill ahead of us. Two of us stopped to buy tomatoes from

a roadside stall and then waited to watch a shrew cross the road in front of us (attempts at a photo were thwarted by the speed with which it darted for cover). Suddenly we were way behind everyone else and it wasn’t until they stopped at Orcop Hill that we caught up.

At lunch we arranged ourselves over huge pieces of a tree which were beside the road and wondered whether it had come down in a storm blocking the road.

Walking through Mynde wood we found large holes which must have been made by badgers, we carefully skirted these. Emerging from the wood we could see The Mynde ahead of us.

 

The Mynde was a Royalist stronghold in the Civil War. It was home to the Pye family from the 1350s until about 1709. Walter Pye was attorney general for Charles I. His second son, Robert Pye, had different religious affiliations which decided his fate. He was beaten by a Roman Catholic neighbour with a billhook and died a few days later. The house is mediaeval with a grand Georgian facade. Apparently it has always been a private residence and is promoted as a film location. According to the Herefordshire Times ‘It has a 1,180 acre estate and parkland passing through a seven-acre lake’.

Now we turned northwest and were heading back towards Kilpeck. We passed through more beautiful rolling countryside. In a field we came across a large flock of sheep that ran from us and covered the horizon. We passed a few pretty cottages and arrived back at Kilpeck church.

Distance walked 8 miles and 750ft climb. OS Map 189

 

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