Category: Footsteps

Remembering Mr Wenvoe

REMEMBERING MR WENVOE

Ian Moody, who sadly passed away at the end of July, will be greatly missed by family, friends and our wider community. Ian committed his life to bringing the community together, working for the village and its residents in a wide variety of roles. Modest and unassuming, Ian was committed to making Wenvoe a better place for all of us. He willingly gave his knowledge, expertise and above all a huge amount of time volunteering for the benefit of the village, including a major contribution to this magazine.

Ian was born and educated in Bristol where he shone both academically (he was invited to join MENSA) and in outdoor pursuits. On leaving school he became an Apprentice Electrical Engineer at Portishead power station. Not only did he win Apprentice of the Year (chosen prize: an Outward-Bound adventure on Dartmoor) but also met his future wife, Carole there. Following marriage in 1965, Ian’s career progression took him to power stations in Sutton Coldfield (where their daughter Kim was born), Poole and finally to Aberthaw, hence Wenvoe, in 1972.

Organised chaos Over the decades that followed, Ian became passionately involved in the life of our village and this increased after he took early retirement in his mid-fifties. His contribution to the village was so great it is difficult to cover it all here. It is perhaps appropriate to begin with Ian’s support for young people in Wenvoe. He was a major figure in the Scouts, being Scout Leader or ‘Skip’ for 25 years and then a Group Scout Leader for many years. Ian’s work helped to shape many a young life and to inspire some to become future Youth and Scout leaders themselves. He also worked tirelessly in helping to organise the much-loved Christmas Scout Post. Anyone who turned up at the “post office” in the community centre to help with sorting, will remember the apparent chaos, which under Ian’s watchful gaze, was in fact completely under control.

Environmental warrior Ian’s love of the countryside, nature and wildlife was an important part of his life. Ian was a key member of the village’s Environmental and Wildlife groups. He helped the team win many prestigious Green Flag awards for work on a number of projects such as the Orchid Field. These successfully created habitats for wildlife and enhanced opportunities for fauna and flora to flourish. Ian was also part of the team that supported Wenvoe winning several awards in the Glamorgan Best Kept Village Competition. It was no surprise that he was a passionate member of Valeways, helping to clear and maintain footpaths throughout the Vale.

Two left boots as a leading member of the Wenvoe Walking Group, Ian planned many of the walks which still take place every Saturday. He even compiled and published a detailed annual record of these walks. Ian was hugely respected for his encyclopaedic knowledge of South Wales and especially public rights of way. His walking pals were grateful on so many occasions for his ability to find a better path whenever one was required. The group fondly remember one Saturday Walk, when Ian arrived with two left boots! Most people would have already thrown away the one that was completely worn out, but Ian had kept it, “just in case”. His trainers were very wet at the end of the day. His love of walking took him further afield, including the Offa’s Dyke Path which he reported to be “challenging” in places. Ian completed many a walk abroad, notably on trips with Bruce McDonald trekking around Spain, France, Italy and even Morocco.

Community champion Ian was a leading member of the Community Council and was elected Chairman on several occasions. He was involved from the outset in the Wenvoe History Group, Gwenfô Gynt. Ian made a major contribution to its research and publication of several books about the village. He instigated the production of the Parish Map and the Toposcope at Twyn-Yr-Odyn to celebrate Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee. He was also a great supporter of St Mary’s Church, including as a sidesman and clock winder. He contributed to the coffers via his sometimes challenging but always fun village quizzes.

Creative grandad Ian was a proud family man, none more so than when in 1997 he became a grandfather with the arrival of Menna, followed just over a year later by Elin. He adored his new role – out came the patterns for the wooden doll’s house and rocking horse originally made for his daughter Kim. He spent hours playing with the girls in the garden on toys he had made – one of the favourites being a go-cart made from an old disability scooter found in a local skip. Today’s mantra of reduce, repair and recycle was not a new concept for Ian.

Mr Wenvoe ‘Mr Wenvoe’ is a truly apt way to describe Ian Moody. It is fitting that we pay tribute to Ian this month. He was the leading light in this What’s On magazine for many years, giving up so much time to the editing and organising of the publication every month. He will be greatly missed by everyone who knew him but has left us a wonderful legacy with his lasting contribution to village life and of course above all loving memories so treasured by his family.

 

 

Castell Carreg Cennen

Castell Carreg Cennen

Castell Carreg Cennen

We parked in the castle car park, near Llandeilo, and were thrilled to spot a kite soaring directly above us as we donned our boots. The castle and farm are currently owned by the Llewelyn family, but the castle is managed by Cadw.

It is one of the most picturesque castles in Wales. Viewers of Countryfile voted it the most romantic ruin in Wales. Apparently, many people get engaged here and there is a place to tie the knot. Standing on a limestone crag, almost 300ft above the valley of the River Cennen, a tributary of the River Towy, it dominates the skyline. Our walk was a circumnavigation of the castle.

It is possible that the first stronghold here was an Iron Age hillfort and in the 12th century the fortress was a status symbol. The Welsh and English fought over it until Edward I seized it, and later the Giffards built the impressive fortress that remains today. What survives is a combination of 13th century architecture and 19th century restoration, as the castle was deliberately demolished in the 1460s.

We walked past the tea rooms, uphill towards the entrance to the castle. This would be the best point, in the walk, to visit the castle, as it is an uphill climb from the tearoom. Following the Beacons Way, we arrived at woodland, Coed y Castell. This is on the southern slopes of the limestone crag and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a local Nature Reserve, due to the habitat supporting insects and birds such as the Pied Flycatcher and Woodpecker. The castle sits on a fault known as the Carreg Cennen Disturbance which stretches from the Marches to Pembrokeshire. As well as creating the limestone outcrop on which the castle stands it also produces an unusual feature; rocks on one side of the fault are limestone and dominated by ash trees and on the other side sandstone supports oak trees.

Limestone creates sinkholes as acid rain eats away at the limestone underground until the roof falls in and a sinkhole is established. There are also grassy craters made by our predecessors looking for limestone, which was heated to make a dressing for fields. The walk descended into the valley where we found fast flowing streams which we had not seen in a long time because of the summer’s dry spell. We gained excellent views of the castle as we climbed up to Beddau’r Derwyddon. Not really Druid’s graves, as the name implies, but man-made pillow mounds, which are earthworks built as rabbit warrens, to farm rabbits for their meat and fur.

We crossed Nant Llygad Llwchwr via a sturdy bridge, built by the Army, who do a lot of work on the footpaths, as they use the Black Mountain for training exercises. The many caves in the area make the Llygad Llwchwr popular with cavers.

Now we spread out to find comfortable spots to relax over lunch. Refreshed we climbed a long flight of steps up a hill. Outcrops of the black, burnt-looking fungus which is King Alfred’s cake and a red bracket fungus were spotted on trees.

It was a hot day and, when we came to a road, a splinter group decided to take a shortcut back to the castle, as we had been told that the tea rooms closed at 3 pm and they wanted a drink before going home.

The rest of us continued through the village of Trapp and passed Carreg Cennen farm. We followed footpaths across fields and noted that the countryside seemed lush and unspoilt even though it was farmed; it is difficult to put a finger on what was different, but it felt more natural than the carefully managed farmland we see in most places. The castle loomed over us, and the Beacons Way provided the route back to the beginning of the walk.

We had heard plenty of birdsong and seen several birds of prey and dainty harebells, as well as a sign warning that adders might be basking! Apparently 100,000 people visit the farm each year but only 40,000 people visit the castle.

The day had been hot and humid, and we were glad to discover that the tea rooms were in fact open until 4.45 pm (lunch served until 3pm). We were so happy some of us had both beer and ice-cream!

Walk 6.2m 1000ft Map OL14

 

Abbey Dore

Abbey Dore

Abbey Dore

This walk took us to Herefordshire, where we parked outside Dore Abbey. Crossing the road a footpath went south across quite a steep field and signposts indicated that we were on the Herefordshire trail. Ewyas (pronounced you us) Harold Common presented us with a plethora of footpaths through dense, high bracken. Woodland areas have a tree canopy which is mainly English oak, silver birch, ash, sycamore, field maple and wych elm.

The common covers 50ha on a plateau above Herefordshire’s Golden Valley. Parts of the common are bounded by ancient sunken lanes, and other parts by medieval parish boundaries. All the common British reptiles have been found here including slow-worms and common lizards. A spring that rises on the common, through limestone outcrops, is known as St Martin’s well and it supplied water to many generations of people living close to the well. Several old boundary stones mark the border between Ewyas Harold and other parishes.

Emerging onto a hard track we could hear a horse and were surprised to see a lone horse with no rider trotting down the track. It seemed to follow us, but in a while the rest of the herd were spotted grazing on the common and the puzzle was solved.

We had views of the surrounding hills and the rolling English countryside. We passed through Ewyas Harold village where the primary school displayed a colourful wall of tiles created by the school pupils in 2017. The village boasted two pubs, a butcher, post office and other businesses. Outside one house ‘the old malthouse witch no. 29’ made from twigs, stood guard and fruit, vegetables and flowers were for sale with an honesty box.

Just outside the village a noticeboard declared that we were at the remains of Ewyas Harold Castle, which is believed to have been built by the Saxons before the Norman conquest. Today only earthworks remain. Nearby ‘Old King Street farm’ has holiday cottages where it is possible to walk with llamas.

Now we walked west and came across clusters of unusual fungi on large old trees. Herefordshire boasts a high concentration of ancient oak trees due to a combination of historical land management practices and the favourable conditions for oak growth in the region. Specifically, the Norman Conquest in 1066 led to the establishment of deer parks and royal forests, which, while intended for hunting, inadvertently preserved ancient oaks. These areas with their woodland and grazing practices, provided ideal habitats for oaks to thrive and reach great age.

The day had heated up and as we approached a trough, Misty – a spaniel decided it was time for a dip and instead of just taking a drink jumped into a trough. She gave us all a laugh.

We passed Dulas Court, originally a 16th century house; it was rebuilt in the mid-19th century and incorporates some of the original house – oak panels, Norman doorway. The original church was demolished and the site cleared to make a lawn! It is now a care home.

There is a dilapidated church down the road (closed and barriers surround it) where we stopped for lunch. The churchyard had a row of identical gravestones each of which was dedicated to a musician. They all died in the 1980s in their 80s and 90s; we wondered about their story. A military 1940s grave of someone from the Hereford regiment is pristine.

Now we entered a nature reserve and found ourselves climbing over some very high, slightly rickety, ladder stiles. After walking across open grassland, we realised why as a herd of deer ran in front of us!

A brief walk along the road past Abbey Dore Court brought us back to the beginning of our walk and the highlight of the day, Dore Abbey. There is free access, and we spent some time exploring the magnificent church. Established in 1147, it was founded by Cistercian monks from Morimond, France. The Abbey was dissolved in 1536, but Dore is the only Cistercian Abbey in the country still used for worship as a Parish church. The original medieval altar was found on a local farm being used for salting meat and making cheese. The Abbey expanded its land holdings, particularly through the acquisition of good quality farmland granted to them by King John in 1216. This enabled the Abbey to become wealthy especially through the sale of wool. It is well worth a visit.

A return to Ewyas Harold by car enabled us to enjoy refreshments in one of the village hostelries after a satisfying day.

Walk 6.7m 915ft Map OL13

 

The Kymin and Kenfig

The Kymin and Kenfig

The Kymin

We parked in a layby, on a hill east of Monmouth and the river Wye and walked along the road a short distance to take a footpath into woodland. It was hot, humid and sunny, but walking on a wide track in the woodland shade was very pleasant.

Soon we were passing one of the impressive houses which abound in Monmouthshire. We came into the open and had a trek up a stony track. A farmer and young child passed on an off-road vehicle and we probably all thought how good it would be to get a lift. A flock of sheep still wearing their woollen fleeces gained our sympathy as they grazed a dry field in full sunshine. A little later we came across shorn sheep, lying in the shadow of a hedge, and looking more comfortable.

Soon we were back in woodland and following part of the Offa’s Dyke path before climbing up to the Kymin at 800ft. The Kymin and its nine acres is a National Trust property, overlooking the Wye valley and Monmouth. As it was clear, we could see the Brecon Beacons and Malvern hills. Everyone had a look at the Naval temple and then decided to eat lunch, some choosing benches in full sun with panoramic views and others finding shade, near sweet chestnut trees and an uneven ‘bowling green’.

Over 200 years ago, a group of local gentlemen formed a picnic group and visited the Kymin every Tuesday. This led to the building of the round house, for shelter when the weather was inclement. It is a quirky building, small, circular and with a castellated roof and has now been converted into a holiday cottage. There is also the Naval temple, which was built by public subscription in 1800 and commemorates 16 of Britain’s famous admirals and their victories in the Seven Years War and the war against France. It is Grade II listed and has undergone three restorations; the last two by the National Trust in 1987 and 2012 because of storm damage. Nelson commented ‘It was one of the most beautiful places he had ever seen’.

Resuming our walk, we descended a path through gnarled tree roots and rocks, where it was noticeably cooler (and had been the planned location for lunch). We avoided the nearby road by walking parallel to it through the woods, negotiating a large ditch and a fallen tree. At last, we had to emerge from the wood to cross the road in full sun, following a track littered with signs from the local Staunton council, warning most vehicles off, but not walkers. We entered a final stretch of woodland, then a tunnel with creeping plants hanging down over its entrance and a ceiling covered in bricks and were soon back at the cars.

The day was hot and humid, with a cooling breeze. Our leader did us proud, managing to devise a route that stayed in woodland most of the time, with short spells in the open. At the end of the walk, we drove to Redbook to visit the Boat Inn for thirst quenching drinks. Walk 6.2m 1000ft Map OL14

Kenfig

It was hard to believe that our last walk had been rained off as we set out on the hottest day of the year so far. We left Wenvoe earlier than usual to head for Kenfig. The first part of the walk meandered across the dunes, occasionally finding shade under a small copse of trees and taking drink breaks. The areas that are normally waterlogged in winter and spring had dried out and were springy underfoot.

 

There were fabulous flowers, some being viper’s bugloss, evening primrose, sea holly, and a low growing shrub with small dark, berries (a rose?).

As the morning progressed it got hotter, and Lawrence of Arabia came to mind. Then we broke through the dunes to the beach to be met by a sea breeze which immediately made us feel comfortable. Several of us took off our boots to paddle in the sea, along the beach. Wonderful! After crossing the main part of the beach, half of us ate our lunch whilst the other half went for a swim – the sea was not cold!

A shorter route back to the car park took us to Sker house, reputably one of the most haunted houses in Wales. R. D. Blackmore, (author of Lorna Doone) wrote a novel called ‘the maid of Sker’ which was inspired by Sker house and a Welsh ballad of the same name.

We crossed the golf course several times, where a surprising number of people were playing. Arriving back at the car park we enjoyed delicious ice-creams and cake, in the shade. Looking at photos I said, ‘It looks like the Med’ my friend replied, ‘It felt like the Med’. Walk 6.6m Map OS151

Redbrook and Pontsticill

Redbrook and Pontsticill

Redbrook

We parked at Redbrook and walked up the Wye valley, away from Monmouth, towards Bigsweir bridge.

We entered Highbury wood, an example of ancient semi-natural woodland typical of the Wye valley. For centuries, until the 1950s, it was managed by coppicing, to provide wood for charcoal and fuel for the limekilns in the wood. We were amazed by the number of large-leaved lime trees we passed and spotted whitebeam and yews which are apparently over 300 years old.

We heard lots of bird song but although the woodland has treecreepers, nuthatches and woodpeckers, we did not spot any of these. However, we did find tall kissing gates standing alone which we walked around. Then we found a lone Butterfly orchid, with a small, white flower mimicking a butterfly with outstretched wings and were delighted later, when they lined the path.

Next was Cadora woods which is a collection of woods which cloak the steep-sided slopes of the Lower Wye valley. The large leaved limes throughout indicate that the woodland could be more than a thousand years old. In the 1960s many trees were felled and conifers planted. These are gradually being replaced to reclaim its native broad-leaved beauty.

We emerged onto a road to walk towards Bigsweir bridge; three-way lights at the bridge kept traffic to one way most of the time. We put on a spurt and walked in single file. Crossing Bigsweir bridge, we arrived at the Toll house which was built with the bridge 1825-39 on behalf of the St Arvan’s – Redbrook Turnpike Trust.

The Toll house was renovated in 1981 by 16–18- year-olds under the Youth Opportunities Programme. As it was lunchtime we found some comfortable grass and sat on the banks of the River Wye to take our break. We voted to continue along the Wye valley rather than use our planned route saving ourselves a climb of a few hundred feet. Consequently, we had a little trouble finding the right footpath but were entertained by the wildlife of the river.

Two Canada geese with 4 goslings swam by. A lone heron stood stock still on a rock, in fast running water, fishing. A flotilla of Canada geese (10 of them) swam majestically along the river beside us. These were followed by a stag party; several canoes, full of males wearing sailor hats, paddled by and when asked where the groom was, they pointed at the first canoe where a lone ‘sailor’ wore a large hat leading the rest. We are not sure but suspect we saw the hen party further along.

This was a delightful walk on a dry day, but it was humid in enclosed places, a very welcome light breeze cooled us in the open space by the river.

Drinks were enjoyed at the Boat pub just across the river Wye; apparently the tea was a bit odd, but the beer was delicious.

Walk 8m 800ft Map OL14

Pontsticill

Parking between Pontsticill and Pentwyn reservoirs, our route took us up to Bryniau Gleision, above the Taff trail and Beacons Way. We have been incredibly lucky with the weather this spring, every Saturday has been dry and clear and often sunny. Today our luck changed. The forecast was for dry weather late morning, so we headed for the hills but as we climbed, we reached the clouds.

It was dry until lunchtime a fierce wind was blowing. Lunch was in an abandoned quarry where there were a few comments about the sheep poo scattered around – it was difficult to avoid but I can’t say I blame the sheep for taking shelter where they can from the cutting wind. Setting off again the moisture from the clouds dropped as fine rain. The force of the wind was such that those of us that failed to don waterproof trousers were soaked to the skin.

At this point, we were supposed to have glorious views of Pen y Fan and the reservoirs – Pontsticill and Tal y Bont. But we saw nothing except a faint glimmer of sunshine when we hoped the sky was clearing but it closed in again. Still, most of us have memories of previous visits and we can come again!

As we descended into the valley, where it was dry, we soon dried off. On the whole walk there was only one stile, near the Pontsticill reservoir and throughout the walk we could hear skylarks and spot them soaring despite the weather.

The Barn tearoom supplied us with cups of tea ice-cream, chocolate cake and several scones; they were scrummy, and we deserved it after the wetting we’d had.

Walk 7.7m 1100ft Map OL12

Brecon & Llanthony Priory

Brecon 

This was a delightful walk, we parked north of Brecon and took a footpath through the cathedral grounds. The mixed woodland (oak, beech, hazel and alder trees) of Priory Groves borders the river Honddu, and is about a mile long. Birds sang, the river tinkled, the scent of bluebells hung in the air and the sun shone through the branches as we strode along, heavenly.

We emerged into open farmland where the Pen y Fan range came into view dominating the skyline. Heifers showed interest in us and a local farmer drove towards us apparently to check that the two dogs were under control. Unsurprising, as the next field had a bull and cows with their calves. As we travelled northwest a few footpaths proved a challenge but the many spring lambs in varying shades were entertaining and the views fabulous. At the northernmost point of the walk a missing footbridge across the river Honddu forced us to retrace about 1 kilometre to take an alternative route. So, we stopped for lunch on the edge of a field trying to avoid nettles and thorns as we sat.

We took a road west until we were beside the iron age, Pen-y-crug fort, where we climbed a footpath to the top of the fort. We had superb 360o views of Pen y Fan and other hills of the Brecon Beacons and of Brecon lying to the south-east.

A wide grass path led us down into Brecon near Maen-du well. The dogs paddled in muddy water before a brief foray into a clear stream and the humans looked at the stone building around the well. An excellent day’s walking rounded off with a drink in the sunshine at the pub in Libanus.

Walk 7.25m 1125ft. Map OL12

Llanthony Priory

Another beautiful walk, this time in the Black mountains above Llanthony Priory. As we set off, we realised we were sharing the mountain with a few other people! Lots of cars were parked in a field, with a marquee, a police presence and a ‘Finish

Line’. Longtown Mountain Rescue were holding their annual fund raiser with 850 participants! As we climbed, we saw few people, as luckily, our route differed from the event.

Our surroundings were a pastoral idyll, with lush grass, trees in full leaf and ewes with their lambs. The climb was demanding, and we all took breaks to look at the tiny people and vehicles below and to gaze at the beautiful valleys and hills around us. The call of a cuckoo echoed up the valley and we were all reminded of days gone by when we regularly heard it. The Mountain Rescue helicopter flew up and down the Ewyas valley doing circuits until it eventually landed in a field near the priory just as we reached the ridge of the mountain and Offa’s Dyke path.

We were doing our route anticlockwise, and the event participants were going in the opposite direction. We reckoned they were walking further than us and gave way whenever necessary. There was a feeling of spaciousness along the ridge as the Black Mountains spread away from us. This area is spectacularly beautiful, and we enjoyed superb views with a light breeze and sunshine all day long.

As we turned to start our descent, we looked for a moment at the cairn where we had laid a stone in memory of a fellow walker. It was lunchtime and we took ourselves a good distance off the main path to relax. Everyone started to divert off the path towards us, obviously assuming we were part of the event, even though there was no visible path. One woman asked, ‘Is that real?’ referring to a white horse that was stood stationary behind us, staring at the people. Perhaps she was from Milton Keynes?

Hang gliders took off from the mountain opposite and rode the thermals to come over Offa’s Dyke. We joked that maybe they could give us a lift down the mountain. Now we had a steep descent, the path was clear as bracken had been cut back. Stone markers pointed us to Capel y Ffin as we descended and hawthorn trees heavy with white blossom dotted the hillside, but I had to keep my eye on the path or risk vertigo.

Arriving at the road that runs along the Vale of Ewyas we discovered that the road to Capel y Ffin was closed to all but walkers due to a landslide. We headed towards Llanthony enjoying the warm afternoon and the beauty of the valley.

Jams were inevitable as Llanthony traffic met other vehicles on the narrow road, but we had a cunning plan and headed for the Crown at Pantygelli where the refreshments were excellent.

Walk 7.3m 1300ft. Map OL13

Wolvesnewton and Trebanog

Wolvesnewton

This was a walk, west of Chepstow exploring the Monmouthshire countryside, taking in three churches and passing the Model farm.

It was a clear sunny day, but the beginning of March and frost remained in shaded places all day. Someone had had some fun, models of a dragon, a green man and an otter were alongside a stream.

We reached Kilgwrrwg Church, the first of the day, within half an hour of setting out. It is tiny with good views. A remote rural spot even today, in times past food would have been provided by strip farming, rotating crops such as wheat and corn. Someone had compiled a folder with information on births, deaths and marriages in the Parish. Leaving the churchyard, we queued to climb over a fallen tree blocking the footpath.

Tramping over lush grassland we saw our first lambs of the season. The medieval, St Thomas a Becket Church at Wolvesnewton is a larger affair on a no through road which was the main road until 19thC. It has a medieval preaching cross and churchyard. A door on the north wall of the church (the wrong side) was sometimes called the Devil’s door and it would be left open during baptism to let evil spirits escape. It is now blocked up. A stained-glass window inside depicts child angels bringing light to the gentiles.

The model farm and folk museum, which opened in 1972 and closed after 14 years, was on our route and a few of us could remember visiting it. It displayed a vast array of items from rural life spanning the Victorian era to Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. There is no evidence of it now apart from a large house, some distance from the track.

Continuing we passed a wildflower meadow, a herd of llamas, and the first frog spawn of the year. At lunchtime we spread out along a bank beside the track, and a few walked to a picnic table below us. After lunch, there was some rough ground and a steep path to tackle, quite difficult after eating. At the top, there was more frog spawn and elfin cap fungus. A pony was scratching around for food in a stony field.

St Peter’s church at Newchurch was the 3rd church of the day, the land it stands on was granted to Tintern Abbey at the time of the Norman invasion. The Bristol Channel and the Cotswolds are visible from here. The yews near the gate were planted in the early 18thC and the church is built entirely of red coarse sandstone. The octagonal font is believed to originate in the 12thC.

Near the end of the walk, a house had a plaque dedicated to Martha Gellhorn (1908- 1998) who had lived there. She was an American novelist, travel writer and journalist who is considered one of the great war correspondents of the 20th C. She reported on most major world conflicts that took place over her 60- year career. She was also the third wife of Ernest Hemingway.

During the walk we had seen celandine (common name pilewort as the roots look like piles), primroses, daffodils and crocuses at the carpark. Before long we were at the nearest pub sampling delicious beer and tea. Walk 7m 1100ft. Map OL14.

 

Trebanogn

This was a bit of a surprise to most of us, Trebanog sits above Porth, and we parked there to avoid a 300ft climb. This was early April but as we got out of the cars a cold, keen wind cut into us, and we all added layers to our clothes. The surprise was the extent of the greenery up here given the large population of the valleys.

People had used stones from an old wall to create tall cairns in places. We could see the whole of Porth and even parts of the Rhondda valley. We were walking on old coal tips and found ewes with their lambs spread over a large area.

About half of us decided to add a little extra to the walk by climbing an easy short distance to a trig point. That was all very well but the steep descent through bracken was a challenge, and we were glad to get back to the rest of the group.

As we walked, Eleri a 13-year-old made up the plot for a story based on our journey, only time will tell whether it makes the pages of What’s On.

Many birds were spotted including the first swallows of the year, skylarks, buzzards, a kite, crows and ducks on a pond. We even saw another herd of llamas.

Drinks at the Cross Inn near Llantrisant rounded off the day nicely. Walk 7m 800ft Map OS166.

Lliw Reservoir & Nuppend, Alvington

Lliw Reservoir

After a longish drive, more of us than usual, arrived at the lower Lliw reservoir, and were happy to see a café. The café has a handy leaflet describing local footpaths and points of interest.

The reservoir was built in 1867, following an 1859 cholera epidemic which gripped Swansea. The advent of clean water halved mortality rates in two years and Swansea was declared the third healthiest town in the UK. Nearly 30 years later the Upper Lliw reservoir was built, as the lower reservoir had always leaked. After over 100 years, in 1979, the dam for the lower reservoir was completely rebuilt so that the two combined now supply water across South Wales.

We walked across the dam and alongside the western side of the lower reservoir on a good tarmac path. At the head of the reservoir where an otter sculpture enthralled us, we crossed the River Lliw to continue north along the river, still on a good track, to arrive eventually at the Upper reservoir.

At an abandoned quarry a kite soared out and over us, so majestic. We watched a while as it dipped and soared at speed, soon out of sight. A gate at the Upper Lliw had a mechanism which took 5 padlocks, each with its own security code and able to release the lock – clever. Interesting, Victorian, metal and stone structures decorate the Upper Lliw, and wind turbines provide a modern backdrop.

Now we crossed the Upper dam and headed out onto wide open upland commons via a woodland. Even though it was the end of winter, we were surprised and pleased to find it relatively dry underfoot, though the moorland looked more like a desert than grassland. We found the first frog spawn of the year, including some tadpoles, in a brackish puddle with reedy grass. We also found a stone which marked the Gower Way – a long way from the Gower we thought! But the Gower way has 50 of these marker stones and extends from Penlle’r Castell to Rhosilli – a 56Km route. Up here the views are extensive as there are no trees. We spread out as we walked at our individual speeds, coming back together when we found rocks beside a path providing an ideal lunch stop.

The return involved a steepish descent through brown bracken which the children amongst us seemed to thoroughly enjoy whilst some of us were more tentative. We met the Cwm Ysgiath walk covering the lower Lliw reservoir and south, returning via Felindre. Now we followed a small section of our outward journey before returning on the eastern side of the Lower Lliw reservoir.

Back at the car park we looked at pieces of metal which looked like giant bath plugs but are valves which controlled the flow of water to Swansea from the reservoir.

This was a super walk with good paths and quite wild in places; as well as kites we saw corvids, larks and a couple of grebes. Tea and ice-cream in the café finished it off nicely. [Walk 7.5m 850ft. MapOS165]

Nuppend, Alvington

At Alvington, between Chepstow and the Forest of Dean, in England, we walked through Nuppend. The footpath went through a field with several tractors. The driver nearest us said ‘if you wait a few minutes, I will create a path for you to walk across’ How nice was that? We were happy to cross the few ditches to access the flattened path that stretched right across the field.

At Beanhill a sward of grass was full of bright daisies and crocuses. On farmland we stopped for a brief conversation, crossed a stream to a road, then found a courier had delivered a parcel to the top of the drive – possibly a box of wine but we resisted any inclination to check!

As we entered woodland. the footpath was devastated by the removal of trees felled by storm Darragh and forest thinning prioritising broadleaved trees. The going was heavy, but persevering, we came to a high wall (a bridge?) which we realised was originally a dam. We descended to the stream and climbed to a ridge covered in rhododendron and laurel bushes. After struggling to find the footpath we dropped onto it and things became easier.

The walk passed through woodland with many sweet chestnuts. We saw a shed full of calves, a handsome white-faced ram with ewes and palomino horses. Snowdrops, primroses, yellow comfrey, comfrey and coltsfoot were all spotted. At one point a basketball hoop stood at the side of the road, the traffic here must be very light.

The return route passed places with strange names: Rough Raging, Hanging wood, Upper and Lower Bargain wood, West Hunger Hill. The day was rounded off with drinks in a local hostelry, [Walk 7m 1040ft. Map OL14]

A Few ‘Experiences’ From Four Walks

A Few ‘Experiences’ from Four Walks

The winter weather for our walks has been mixed with less than the usual amount of rain but…twice we have abandoned due to the weather; once for a storm and once for heavy rain. All the walks are on map OS151. Unusually, rather than describe full walks I am describing a few ‘experiences’.

Ely Valley Walk 8m 550ft.

A visit to the Pendoylan/Peterston-super Ely area.

As we crossed a field a pigeon landed on someone’s back and even when shoo-ed away continued to follow us, landing on various people’s heads and backs. It didn’t give up until at a junction of paths, Misty, the dog, decided to chase it and after much fluttering and briefly landing, it flew off. Someone else who walked in the same area a couple of weeks later had a similar experience.

We needed to cross the railway and had the excitement of telephoning for permission. We were told to wait for two trains. We found it hard to believe that the second train hadn’t already gone until it roared past us. This is a very fast line! A second phone call confirmed that we had crossed safely, and we continued, past a house called Pratt’s Bottom.

The latter part of the walk was across very muddy, wet and smelly fields where we hopped and jumped from grassy clump to grassy clump. At a stream crossing, with a steep muddy bank, one person heroically stood at the foot of the bank to help us across. Yours truly jumped across and up the bank to end up sprawled face down in the mud. Luckily most people missed the entertainment and someone helped me up!

Drinks to recover were enjoyed in the Red Lion, Bonvilston.

Cowbridge Walk 7 m 500ft.

Well, we thought the Ely valley was muddy but at least there we had water to wash it off. At the end of this walk which looped from Llanblethian to Siginstone, all of us had more mud on our boots and clothes than at any time this year.

The final leg of the walk took in the Coffin stiles which lie on farmland to the west of the new estate in Cowbridge. These stiles connect Penllyn with Llanfrynach church and were used when a coffin needed to be carried to the church for a funeral. Each has a double stile with a pillar in the centre to rest the coffin as the bearers cross.

Walking through the Clare Garden estate, West Cowbridge we spotted three brick chimney shaped structures which we presume were sculptures, but we were confused by them. We saw a few spring flowers, snowdrops, daffodils and primroses but no frog spawn or lambs this year yet. Everything seems late, presumably because of the low light levels.

Drinks in Baffle Haus.

Cardiff Bay

This was Bert’s monthly midweek walk. We parked near the Oyster Catcher in Penarth Marina and walked across the river Ely, through the white-water centre where ambulance staff were training, towards the Hamadryad and the nature reserve before stopping at Coffee Mania in the Bay for coffee/tea. Then back across the barrage to Penarth marina. It was freezing cold, and we certainly felt the cutting wind as we walked across the barrage but all of us were glad we had turned up and enjoyed the chat.

The Hamadryad was a seaman’s hospital and later a psychiatric hospital in Cardiff docklands. Originally it was HMS Royal Hamadryad a hospital ship provided for seamen and situated on a piece of waste ground, known as Rat Island, and donated by the Marquis of Bute. A free hospital, it was funded by a levy on shipping at Cardiff Docks.

Walk 5 miles easy (i.e. flat and on firm surfaces throughout)

Taff Ely Ridgeway Walk 7m

Lastly, but by no means least, at the end of January, on a sunny morning with temperatures below freezing but rising we walked near the wind turbines. At the side of the paths, we saw several examples of ‘hair ice’. This is a rare type of ice formation where the presence of a particular fungus in rotting wood produces thin strands of ice which resemble hair. Conditions for the formation of this ice are specific; to form moist rotting wood from a broadleaf tree in the presence of moist air and a temperature below 0oC . How lucky were we to see it – It was beautiful

 

Cwm Gynfig and St Athan

Cwm Gynfig near Margam Park

January produced some icy weather, causing anxiety about the forecast of snow flurries or freezing rain after 4pm. We parked on a road south of the route to avoid driving on icy/narrow country lanes. Although cold (layers were the order of the day) it was a beautiful sunny day, and we were soon striding out. Until we met streams of water running across the road, hiding black ice in places, when shorter tentative steps were taken.

We laughed at a sign on a gate ‘No Trespassing If you weren’t invited you aren’t welcome’. A field of goats were hidden by a hedge, but they ran around as we passed.

As we approached a farm, a woman came towards us asking ‘Where are you going?’. ‘How friendly’ I thought. But she changed her whole demeanour, became very angry and told us in no uncertain terms that there was no footpath through her land and if we went across the fields, we would find sheep, cows and bulls. Several people had maps in their hand and tried to explain quietly ‘look the footpath is on the map’. She would not listen to reason and berating us told us to go back down the hill and take another track; of course, the track was not a footpath. Our skilled navigators soon had us back on route and the rest of the walk passed without incident.

As the morning progressed ice on the paths melted but the frost remained with surrounding fields and tree stumps often retaining a sparkling white veneer. We had excellent paths throughout and walked a variety of areas – woodland, open spaces, and farmland. We spotted some fungi, foxglove seed heads, a buzzard and a heron.

As we gained height, we observed the devastation caused by recent storms. Trees tumbling over one another like matchsticks. Emerging from the forest it was very cold, and we walked faster.

 

An area where stones littered the ground, and heather grew proved excellent for lunch. Then we returned through the valley surrounded by rusty-brown, bracken covered hillsides – so much better to look at than walk through.

We enjoyed warming tea at Pyle Garden centre.

Walk 8m 1000ft. Map OS151/166

St Athan

Parking in Aberthaw we discovered that one of us (who will remain nameless but has experienced many years walking the footpaths of South Wales), realised he had brought two left footed boots and would have to walk in the shoes he was wearing!

It was a grey day with glimmers of sunshine. We started by walking back up the road to the coastal road, we stepped out quite smartly, hesitating only to look over the parapet at the structures within Aberthaw

We walked north across land associated with a castle and investigated the remains of a dovecote. Several trees had large black bracket fungus on their trunks. As we approached St Athan a large caravan/chalet park could be seen in the sunshine.

Turning south we could see the airport; several planes were parked up. Then our most experienced walker said, ‘I’ve never walked this path.’ It was a very short section, but the walk planner was very pleased to find something new!

On reaching the coast we scrambled over the stones and through the 2nd world war sea defences to gaze out to sea while we ate our lunch. The tide was out but five surfers entertained us by riding the slightest of waves.

This part of the coastal path was wet underfoot until we reached the firmer path in Aberthaw. A structure out at sea is the sea water intake used for cooling in the power station .There is a tunnel connecting the caisson to the land so personnel could walk out to it if required.

As a coal fired power station Aberthaw could supply enough power for 1.5 million households. It is now silent and there was evidence of buildings and contents being dismantled. When it was active, coal trains would come in and out of the site on a continuous railroad without stopping; the carriages released their load from the bottom onto a conveyor belt which carried the coal to a store. There is now a hill of coal ash at the edge of the site where several species have set up home.

Reaching the end of the high wall around the power station, we walked through the nature reserve back to the cars. Drinks in the Blue Anchor rounded the day off nicely. Walk 7.8m 280ft. Map OS151

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