Category: Footsteps

Pontrhydyfen & Llwyn-Onn

Pontrhydyfen & Llwyn-Onn

Pontrhydyfen

We parked at Rhyslyn, Afan Forest Park in late spring, and set off on the Richard Burton birthplace trail soon spotting clumps of cowslips.

Crossing the viaduct towards Bethel Chapel we looked down on the river and over to a second viaduct. As we turned the corner of the chapel, we noticed that high up in the stone wall was a gap filled with a different material; bees had obviously made this their home and were busy coming and going.

It was a lovely day, and we walked in dappled sunlight beside trees. This was yet another walk where we were able to see bluebells (one of 6 this year). A long line of at least nine bee hives sat along the edge of a field. Next, a line of caravans and motor homes were awaiting their summer excursions. A donkey and a horse took an interest in us and our equine lovers said hello.

As the day progressed it warmed and lambs could be seen gambolling in the fields. We had an early lunch sat amongst the roots of an old hedge line which also provided shade as the ‘hedge’ had grown to a line of trees. The view was a pastoral idyll of green fields, rolling hills and sheep with just a few houses in the distance.

At one point we could see Port Talbot steel works in the distance, quite odd as there was no smoke and no sign of activity. Since then, one of the main Tata steel cylinders has been demolished.

We were at the highest point of our walk and came across a bench with a heart-shaped dedication to a dog – ‘always by my side, forever in my heart’. It was now hot and the views expansive. The wall of a property totally overgrown with greenery had several pottery animals dotted about – a horse’s head, a pig and some sort of bird.

The return was a pleasant walk along the river and another bench with a dedication ‘Sit with me and watch the world go by’ – this time for a 26-year-old.

Before long we were back in Pontrhydyfen, and wandered over to the Bethel chapel café, where hot and cold food is available. ‘In 1984, hundreds of mourners, including locals, fans and A-list stars gathered here to bid farewell to Richard Burton.’ The place is full of memorabilia as well as some pithy sayings such as ‘skinny people are easier to kidnap, stay safe and eat cake’. So, we did as it was someone’s birthday and we sat outside in the balmy air to enjoy it.

As we walked back to the cars a friendly local chatted to us and pointed out the house where Richard Burton was born, rounding the day off nicely.

Walk 6.8 miles 1000ft Map OS165

 

Llwyn-Onn

We parked in the Forrest holidays site, west of the reservoir where a wooden sculpture of the BFG stands. This was an excellent route for a hot day with plenty of shade.

Although we were circumnavigating the reservoir, we could not see it for most of the walk. Birdsong accompanied us all day and there were bluebells once again but at the end of their display. The paths were edged by many orchids – early marsh, common spotted and others. An unusual yellow flower turned out to be common cow wheat and buttercups covered fields. White pignuts were plentiful in one area.

We sheltered in the cool shadow of a tree for lunch and were swamped by swarms of midges – some of us suffering for days afterwards with the resultant bites.

The old Taff trail proved very difficult in parts where the trees and shrubs were reaching across the path with a barbed wire fence on the other side. Towards the end of the walk the footpath disappeared so we changed route and walked beside the reservoir, stepping into it where gentle waves lapped the path.

At Garwnant visitor’s centre, information boards cover the geology of the Brecon Beacons and information on an arboretum. It was a beautiful hot sunny day and the walk ‘a bit of an adventure’. When we told a ranger at the visitor centre the problems on the old Taff trail. he said, ‘he wouldn’t go down there these days.’

We enjoyed drinks here and many of us also had ice-cream!

Walk 7 miles 1000ft Map OL12

St Briavels & Allt Yr Esgair

St Briavels & Allt Yr Esgair

St Briavels

St Briavels is in the Forest of Dean and on the Agincourt Wales trail which tells the story of the people in the river Wye /Forest of Dean area that played a role in Henry V’s victory at Agincourt.

Early in the walk we found ourselves in woodland surrounded by English bluebells, the scent heavenly. The contrast of the new green leaves on the trees and the light purply blue of the bluebells is one of nature’s annual treats.

An open stretch of ground led us past a majestic avenue of trees and near the river Wye. The pretty, white, single track road bridge came into view just above Bigsweir. We entered Cadora woods, a term used to describe a series of woods which form a continuous line of woodland covering the slopes of the lower Wye valley.

The path led us through a tunnel of bright yellow gorse. A bench had a sweet dedication ‘This bench was made by Jack for his fiancé, Scarlett. She’s not dead she just really loves this view.’

We followed a stream through woodland. Two of our dogs played a bit of a game. A spaniel went into the stream, and the other dog patrolled the bank stopping the spaniel from getting up the bank, then suddenly backed off. We relaxed for lunch in the woodland above the path.

The stream widened, and its banks were blanketed with the white flowers of wild garlic, even rocks in the middle of the stream were smothered in it. Steps appeared in the stream, these were tufa. Tufa is formed when calcium and carbon dioxide in fresh water rises to the surface and is exposed to air. Carbon dioxide evaporates; calcium precipitates and the minerals coat organic material.

Returning to St Briavels, a cricket game was being played on St Briavels centenary playing field where there is a memorial to the fallen of the two world wars. As we walked through the village the air was scented with lilac, purple and white, and wisteria. Wild roses, ceanothus, and Queen Anne’s lace hydrangea were all in full bloom. It was close to May 4th, and in a window, we saw Yoda (of Star Wars).

Walk 6.5miles 1100ft Map OL14

Allt Yr Esgair

In the words of the walk proposer ‘A surprisingly lovely walk up Allt yr Esgair to the east of the river Usk with good cake and the option to go to Talybont to have tea and stroll along the canal to view the osprey nest.’

Allt yr Esgair was a Bronze age burial site (4,000 years ago), an Iron age hill fort (2,500 years ago). Esgair means ridge in Welsh and Allt yr Esgair is a 2km long sandstone ridge with panoramic views of the Brecon Beacons and Black Mountains.

We parked at the Venison centre with permission of the owners and took the Roman Road, a solid track which climbs gradually uphill with no steep sections. Either side of the track was a stunning display of white stitchwort with deep indigo bluebells, the air was heavy with scent.

Emerging into more open countryside gorse bushes appeared still surrounded by bluebells. The views were amazing Llangorse lake to the east, Pen y Fan and other hills to the west and the oxbow in the river Usk below us. Speedboats raced across Llangorse lake and later sailing boats appeared.

Llangorse is the largest natural lake in South Wales. Formed 11,000 years ago when the ice retreated, it would have been larger spilling over into the Usk valley at Bwlch. Mynydd Troed and Waun Fach dominate the skyline beyond the lake.

We met five different groups of Duke of Edinburgh award youngsters. An ancient hollow ash tree stood close to the path. Two people left us to look at the Osprey nest. We walked a circle at the top of the walk and then stopped for lunch choosing our favourite view – the lake or Pen y Fan. The return was along a path parallel to our outward route.

A woodpecker could be heard above us and someone with eagle eyes (and binoculars) spotted it, we stood still and watched for a short time. A kite flew high in the sky.

We experienced birdsong throughout the walk; it goes down as one of our best walks. At the venison centre, a welcoming team provided pots of tea and beer/soft drinks and cake. It is a farm shop and amongst other things they sell venison from their deer herd. A lovely way to round off the day.

Walk 7 miles 1300ft Map OL13

Barry Docks to Penarth Marina

Barry Docks to Penarth Marina

It was Easter weekend and we stayed local to avoid traffic. We started opposite the household waste centre in Barry, at Hayes point, on the edge of an exposed industrial area but walking through a gap in the verge we found ourselves on rocks at the top of a beach. High tide was recent, and the sea was lapping not too far away.

No-one else was near as we made our way east and looked back over the grey Bristol Channel towards Nell’s point in Barry, which with Friars point creates the sandy Whitmore Bay. Although it was cloudy the sun was peeping through small patches of blue sky and glinting on the sea. We passed the new flats at Hayes point and Ty Hafan children’s hospice, the latter being easy to spot with the colourful dog sculptures on the side of the building facing the sea.

At Sully the famous dinosaur footprints were away from the footpath. Before long the line of bungalows that skirt the beach were in sight and the day was getting brighter by the minute. A Millenium plaque presented by the W.I. to the left of the path helpfully oriented us and showed the directions of many places in the area such as Cardiff, Llancarfan, Steep Holme, Burnham on sea and Flat Holme.

We passed the open spaces around Sully sports and social club and then had to head inland to get around a caravan park. Our return to the coast was the muddiest stretch of the day but at least it was soft underfoot. As we returned to the coast Sully island came into view and we could see people on its beach who must have been out there for some hours and possibly overnight – we guessed they were fishermen. The temptations of the café and the Captain’s Wife public house were safely passed as we continued.

Lavernock point beckoned with the 20-acre nature reserve which surrounds a second world war anti-aircraft gun battery complex. A variety of plants and butterflies thrive here and Lavernock is a good place to observe migrating birds. In the autumn flocks of swallows, redwing, fieldfare and finches can be seen. A wooden bench with a leaf on its back support and a carved inscription to Colin Vyvyan ‘ a volunteer who loved this nature reserve’ was unusual.

We were planning to have lunch on the beach but decided to head for the church instead as a breeze was coming off the sea. We basked in the heat of the sun as we ate and then explored the information available. This was where Marconi and Kemp exchanged the first radio messages across water between Lavernock and Flat Holme on 11th May and Lavernock and Breadon Down on 18th May 1897.

From here Penarth is north and we stayed on the coast, meeting more people as we neared the clifftop car park. Just before the clifftop café, we headed inland to take the Penarth Railway path, which follows the route of the old Cadoxton branch line,between Cosmeston and Penarth town centre. At one point there is a row of interesting terraces either side of the footpath each terrace has a different name.

During the walk we saw a surprising number of plants including blue borage, purple honesty, and lots of blackthorn with its white flowers.

Once in the busy centre we kept away from the shops and climbed streets leading to the top of a hill where there is a small garden dedicated to seafarers. Tall Iroko posts with holes drilled form ‘Bee hotels’ for solitary bees. Large stones have images of tattoos associated with sailors and a plaque explains their significance: Swallow guarantees a safe return; Golden dragon is the international date line; chicken and pig protect from drowning; anchor signifies stability, loyalty and honour; heart and dagger signify a lost comrade.

 

A view of Penarth Marina and Cardiff Bay with the expanse of the sea opens from here. St Joseph’s park is a traffic-free route connecting Penarth, the Marina and Cardiff and we descended through it to the Marina where our leader and his wife invited us to enjoy homemade cookies and chocolate cake adorned with Easter chicks with our teas and beers. A splendid end to an interesting walk

Walk 7.3 miles 500ft. Map OS151.

Margam Park and Merthyr Mawr

Margam Park

We parked at the small fishing lake near Margam Abbey, the drive over had been misty and as we started out it was raining. Heading north we passed the lake with ducks and swans.

Margam park is one of 22 sentinel sites across Wales acting as an early warning system for any plant pests and diseases. There is a hillfort just above the abbey, we decided not to climb it as there would have been no view. A memorial bench dedication struck a chord, ‘come and sit and watch the seasons change’, we were ready for an end to this winter’s rainfall.

Everything was festooned with moss, fungi and water droplets. The views were restricted as the mist and rain continued. We walked alongside woodland, through woodland and almost up to the Ogwr Ridgeway walk. Lunch was taken in a wood where some of us sat on tree stumps but most stood, as the incessant rain dripped from the trees onto us and our sandwiches.

After lunch the rain was heavier with a wind driving it horizontally. We saw frog spawn and squelched across an open area as the footpath was water-logged. Bare trees grew from ponds which are almost certainly not there normally.

The mist became thicker and a herd of deer stood staring at us through the gloom. Soon after we reached the highlight of the walk, a visit to an ancient ash tree. Its trunk had split open and a couple of branches had reached down to the ground. On one of these, above our heads, a group of daffodils were growing amongst ferns – an amazing sight. Hidden by the mist, beyond the tree was Port Talbot steel works.

Margam

Margam’s tamer paths formed the rest of the walk as we passed information boards about bike rides and walks in the area and a sculpture of a stag outside the remains of the abbey. More than one of us will return to visit the Margam Stones museum with its Celtic crosses.

At the end, we were all soaked through and we opted to go straight home rather than stop for a drink. One person declared it ‘the wettest walk ever’. But that ash tree and the deer made it all worthwhile, I think!

Walk 7 miles 1110ft Maps OS165,166,151

 

Merthyr Mawr

Parking at Castleton we walked up the surprisingly busy road, but the weather was dry. A footpath led us uphill across a grassy field and down to a stream which had spread over the grass. White violets, vibrant red cup-shaped elfin cap and other fungi were abundant.

At Merthyr Mawr the dunes are fenced and cattle or ponies graze to keep the dunes open, preventing overgrowth by dense grasses and scrub. We walked through some scrub where gorse and hazel were in flower and spiky sea buckthorn bordered the paths together with the seed heads of evening primrose.

Natural Resources Wales’s website explains how dunes are formed. Waves carry offshore sand to the beach and storms and tides stir sand from the seabed. Coastal erosion can contribute and rivers may bring inland sand. Sand deposited on the beach, gradually builds to dunes, typically in areas with a wide sandy beach.

Waves and wind leave obstacles such as wood, pebbles and seaweed on the beach at the high tide mark. Once the sand is higher up the beach it can be blown by the wind, is trapped by the obstacles and dunes start to form. Plants like marram grass colonise the dunes, their roots stabilise the sand allowing more sand to build higher dune ridges. As plants die organic matter allows other plants to grow perpetuating the growth of the dunes.

Arriving at the beach, we noted the huge amount of wood which sat at the hightide line and walked halfway to the river Ogmore before choosing a tree trunk to sit on for lunch. A cool breeze picked up and reaching the river we saw ripples running across it in strange patterns.

Walking upriver we noticed holes dotted in the sand dunes, continuing for a good distance, rabbit burrows we guessed as they looked too large for birds, and we had seen a few rabbits. Good paths led us past a stand of silver birch and then beech trees with their russet leaves and back to the car park.

Walk 6.5miles 450ft Map OS151

Taff Trail and Morlais

Taff Trail and Morlais

Mud glorious mud! In my last article I commented that we had been lucky in January and had frosty clear days for our Saturday walks despite rain during the week. It couldn’t last and twice we walked on Sunday for better weather.

This was an exciting walk and a favourite. Parking outside a carpark, we went up the road (a hill) passing a property which was built as a sanatorium, an ideal location with lots of fresh air.

Having warmed our muscles and circulation, we turned onto a track taking us to Morlais quarry, a rocky expanse with craggy trees some of which were heavily laden with lichen. Although it was still January yellow hazel catkins were dripping from trees. Below we could see the Pontsarn Viaduct and the ‘Spanish House’ which was built by a Cardiff businessman. As we moved on, looking back, a line of structures could be seen above the quarry, they were chimneys belonging to a row of houses.

Even in winter nature has its treasures, and we were treated to trees dripping with beard like lichen, hawthorns festooned in red berries and raindrops catching the sun, red berries glistening against silvery green lichen, bright yellow gorse bushes shining out against grey trees and glowing green moss covering any bare surface.

The winter rainfall also treated us to gushing streams pouring downhill into gutters and spouting down to the Taff Fechan River. A stone bearing the inscription ‘It was time for tea’ made us think of lunch but it was too early.

Morlais tunnel was open from June 1879 until 1958. It is called ‘the Miler’ only half a mile long but, with the stretch of railway to Dowlais, a mile. The tunnel ran underneath the limestone quarries for Dowlais Ironworks. Workers drilled through 200yards of millstone grit and limestone at a rate of 25feet a week. Its arched structure is lined with 2,500,000 bricks and the project was completed in under two years. It ‘connected Merthyr with the Midlands and Monmouthshire hill towns.’ Incredibly a tree is growing on the outside arch of the tunnel, its roots following the line of the arch down towards the ground. As usual a few of us couldn’t resist looking inside the tunnel and were rewarded with ice cold drips of water down our necks.

We could hear the river below and soon were crossing the Pontsarn Viaduct, another engineering masterpiece, it is over 90ft high and 448ft long with seven stone arches and built in 1866 to transport coal and lime. Nearby an old building is encased in scaffolding, and at a window opening with no glass, several storeys up, is a chair – none of us could imagine being comfortable sitting there with the huge drop.

We were now following the Taff trail down the Taff Fechan River. At the remains of Pontsarn railway platform we stopped at a picnic table, to enjoy lunch in sunshine. Continuing, we met a local who said that a man had died 18 months ago at the blue pool (luckily not on our route) so ‘be careful’. Recently BBC news advocated more safety measures in waterfall country as three people had died in the last 18 months. At a path junction a horse and cart trotted past us. We were closer to the river than we had been throughout the walk and started to appreciate its dangerous beauty. We crossed a footbridge and turned north for the final stretch of the walk.

At this point we were walking upriver, nearer to it, and the volume of water was enormous. Churning water roared between the rocky banks and the noise put paid to most conversation. Towering rocks rose above us and tree roots crawled along rocks finding purchase. The path is quite wide, and we were safe, but we did watch our feet at times. A stream crossed the path, and the footbridge was underwater. There was a railing and it was fine to cross but most of us headed slightly upstream to cross on the rocks.

Before long we reached a stile which led to the beginning of the walk. A sodden sheet of A4 paper hanging from the stile declared ‘this footpath closed from December 2025 for up to 6 months’, no wonder the carpark was closed.

This was a lovely walk on a dry day, and the river was a spectacle, but proper walking gear had been important. A brief drive down the road took us to a local hostelry, for much appreciated refreshment.

Walk 6. 25m 830ft. Map OL12.

Ewenny – A Glorious Morning

Ewenny – A Glorious Morning

As we approached Ewenny Priory, to park, we could hear shooting. Leaving the cars the sound intensified and the dog that was with us jumped back into the car and started to shake. We could see men, down on the banks of the river Ewenny, holding rifles with which they were shooting ducks and there were dogs retrieving them. As we set off, the dog had to be carried for the first few hundred metres. We passed a couple of men stood on the side of the footpath, one of whom was holding a dead duck. None of us particularly enjoyed that start.

But it was a glorious morning, icy cold with full sunshine, as all our Saturdays have been in January. This makes walking so much easier as even the muddiest stretches become firm paths.

We were heading for Castle-upon-Alun and as soon as we had climbed above Ewenny we could see snow on the hills to the north where the wind turbines were visible against the clear blue sky.

As the morning warmed slightly layers were adjusted, as we crossed farmland and approached a copse of cedar trees. A frost covered summerhouse looked picturesque in a garden on the icy road to Castle-upon-Alun. Near the river the air was still misty, and a field of tall grasses was frozen white in the sunshine. We crossed the river via the stepping stones admiring the reflections and atmospheric views.

After a steep climb, we emerged onto a common where the views were excellent from the snow-clad hills in the north to the Vale spread below us. We considered having lunch here but it was too early.

Back to the river Alun, passing the Nature Reserve, and across the clapper bridge; a clapper bridge is made from stone slabs and was used by packhorses and walkers. Some stopped here for lunch while others continued to an open field where we could sit in the sun. It was so warm that coats were abandoned to fully enjoy the relaxing sunshine. A robin hopped about near us, lots of other birds sang and hazel catkins looked lovely against the blue sky.

We climbed again to reach the railway, this time crossing the live rails (carefully). A farm had an enormous number of black plastic wrapped bales

White hens clucked away in their run and the few sheep in the next field stopped and stared. At this point we had extensive views over the beautiful Vale of Glamorgan.

Large flocks of sheep grazed a mud-spattered field, heads down munching on the tops of a root crop and grass. At a brick stables a horse held his head over the wall so that he could watch us as we walked past. Bridgend and Ewenny came back into view below us, and we noted how much snow had melted on the hills. A white vinca flower shone out from its glossy leaves under a tree. We walked down the road between Corntown and Ewenny and along a footpath back to the priory.

On return to Ewenny Priory most of us turned into the churchyard to explore the ruins, maintained by CADW, and the church. William de Londres was a Norman knight, and leading invader of Glamorgan, who built the priory as a ‘Highway to Heaven’. This was another takeover; there is evidence that the Welsh were already using it for Christian worship. The walls around the priory make it look like a castle. Monasteries were abolished by Henry VIII in the 16th century, and a private house (19thC) replaced the monastery, but the church remained as the parish church; worship at Ewenny Priory church of St Michael has been continuous for at least 900 years. It is a peaceful place with many interesting artefacts.

The nave of the parish church was probably separated from the monastic end by a screen as was usually the case in medieval times. A pulpitum screen, created by Swansea artist, Alexander Beleschenko, was installed in 2006. The glass represents the Resurrection of Christ; an empty cross has clouds of butterflies emerging from it, symbolising the resurrection of the soul. The National Museum of Wales has a JMW Turner drawing of ‘the transept of Ewenny Priory’ which was shown at the Royal Academy.

The short days of January encourage us to stay local and although this walk is known for its spring flowers, we thoroughly enjoyed it in January. Tea at the garden centre was very welcome.

Walk 7. 6m 880ft Map OS151

Stormy Weather – Senghenydd

Stormy Weather – Senghenydd

We parked on the Eglwysilan Rd near Abertridwr, next to St Ilan’s church and a closed pub, to climb up to the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway walk and do a wide circuit around Senghenydd. As we booted up the wind cut across the pub car park and we donned extra layers. Storm Amy had arrived, and we took to the plateau that surrounds Senghenydd knowing that there were no trees to pose a danger to walkers.

It was sunny but the wind was very strong, and every step needed concentration. As we set off one person was heard to say, ‘I am glad my rucksack is so heavy, it might keep me on the ground’. Cows sat in an open field and it could have been a summer’s day but of course, they were sheltering from the wind.

There was very little conversation as we could not hear above the howling of the wind and going uphill required all our breath. On reaching the plateau a rainbow appeared ahead of us. There seemed to be an amazing number of electricity pylons marching across the area. Although we had been here before we had never noticed how many there are before, but they were to be our constant companions, and we never seemed to lose the sound of the wind vibrating through their wires.

We could see a fair distance as it was clear. The track we were following was stony and wide, so we always felt safe. Horses grazed as if all was normal.

We came across a number of horses. There are around 250 semi-feral ponies living on the commons of Gelligaer and Merthyr Tydfil, the majority of which are not owned and are the result of unchecked breeding of abandoned horses and ponies. The RSPCA surveyed the ponies in 2024 and, assisted by other animal charities, agreed a plan to rehome some of them. The aim is to create a more sustainable future for the ponies and the land.

Crossing a stretch of moorland, we could see people in the distance and as we came closer realised there were dogs with horse riders. The Gelligaer hunt were exercising a pack of hounds (at least 20 beagles and wolfhounds). We stepped off the track to allow them to pass but they gave us a wide berth, and we exchanged smiles with the riders. We were probably all thinking we were mad!

One stretch of the path was flooded and around here a small herd of cows spread out some sitting, others grazing. In the distance we could see a pyramid shaped slag heap and as we got nearer could hear shooting. Red flags were placed around the perimeter of the Llanbradach shooting club. We were surprised at the large number of vehicles and men who seemed to have huge guns. A constant sound of shooting was in the air for about half an hour after we had passed them.

It was time for lunch. We were walking just below the top of a hill with no shelter from the wind, as we had stayed away from any structures, and decided to hunker down in an attempt to escape it. It was certainly a bit calmer at ground level but quite cold, which encouraged us to eat quickly.

As we resumed, we passed a radio mast which sounded a higher note than the electricity lines. Soon we were descending from the high ground and passed a stream tumbling down the hillside.

Arriving back at the cars, we briefly looked at the churchyard of St Ilan’s (which held its final service in 2023). There is a large yew tree and many of the victims of the Senghenydd colliery disaster of 1913 are buried here. It is the worst mining accident in the UK; an explosion caused by firedamp killed 439 coal miners and a rescuer.

The wind had been constant and very tiring; we all agreed it had resulted in a harder walk than more challenging walks, but the route had been excellent for the conditions. For once we headed straight home without stopping for refreshments.

Walk 7.8m 800ft Map OS166

 

Talybont and Llanfeugan

Talybont and Llanfeugan

Talybont and Llanfeugan

Parking in Talybont, where toilets and showers were available for a small fee, we set off along a section of the canal. The walk was taking in parts of the Taff trail, Usk Valley walk, and the Brecon and Monmouthshire canal. Henry Vaughan ‘the Swan of the Usk’ is celebrated here, a 17thC poet and doctor and his twin, Thomas, a priest, and alchemist published devotional, poetic, alchemical and medical volumes. There is a short Henry Vaughan Walk – 4Km, with poetic extracts on wooden boards which tuck away out of the weather when not in use, ingenious. Henry was recognised as a poet who influenced many later poets such as Wordsworth. We walked through an herb garden containing plants which the brothers would have grown for use in their medical exploits.

On the Taff trail we read a quote from one of Thomas’s poems ‘What a clear, running crystal here I find! Sure I will strive to gain as clear a mind!’ I wonder what the Taff was like in their day.

We traversed fields and a small wood and came across an orchard overflowing with fruit, as all trees seem to be this year. One tree was the archetypal apple tree with glossy red fruit. There was a walk in aid of Mountain Rescue the day we were there, and we came across some marshals – luckily our routes were different.

The Usk valley walk has an otter as its symbol and utilises some permitted paths through lush fields and a copse of silver birch. We entered a wood and were pleased to spot various fungi but excited to see a large clump of fly agaric (the red mushroom with white spots). At this point someone said we had better stop spending so much time looking at fungi as we had only walked 2 miles!

We passed the ruin of a building and had our first view of the meandering river Usk. The path, which worshippers would have taken over the ages, was leading to Llanfeugan, but the church of St Meugan was still some way off. The Parish stretches 8.5 miles from the river Usk, over the 2523ft summit of Waun Rydd and down into the Taff Fechan valley. The track was well established with many old trees along the way. At least 4 types of fungi grew on the remains of a tree.

At lunchtime we arrived at the 13thC church, built on the site of a chapel and a pre-Christian sacred site, so it has been a sacred site for thousands of years. An amazing sight welcomed us; a beautiful noticeboard and gate led to the churchyard which has 13 ancient yew trees, at least two are over 2000 years old, and the atmosphere was awesome. We were invited to ‘Pick your yew’ and eat.

In 2023 a large bough broke off one yew in a storm, and the wood was saved to be used by local crafts people, including to make the frame for the yew noticeboard at the entrance gate. Cuttings from the

yews were taken in the Millenium year and three are now planted to the south of the church, as they were given back to St Meugan’s in 2003.

After their long journeys, the rector and congregation, played handball until the bells stopped ringing and resumed their game on completion of the service. There was even cockfighting, especially on Holy Days!

We briefly explored the interior of the church and then continued our walk, glancing back at the church which was almost entirely hidden by the yews. Through fields and tracks it was downhill to the canal, passing hawthorns loaded with bright red haws and a spindle tree (so called because its branches are perfectly round and were used for spindles) with its bright pink capsules that split open to reveal vibrant orange, berry-like seeds.

On reaching the canal an easy walk along it allowed us to watch wildfowl, barges moving slowly along and even the tree in which an osprey nested, near the canal this year.

Soon we were back at Talybont, a village which grew from the canal and the thriving industry powered by local coal. Today it buzzes with mountain power. Mountain streams cascade down waterfalls into the reservoir driving the hydro to power our homes, businesses and cars.

A memorable day which despite the forecast, remained dry and was finished off by a cuppa outside the local café/shop watching the participants in a much longer sponsored walk pass by.

Walk 7.5 m 880ft Map OL12 and OL13

 

Castell Carreg Cennen

Castell Carreg Cennen

Castell Carreg Cennen

We parked in the castle car park, near Llandeilo, and were thrilled to spot a kite soaring directly above us as we donned our boots. The castle and farm are currently owned by the Llewelyn family, but the castle is managed by Cadw.

It is one of the most picturesque castles in Wales. Viewers of Countryfile voted it the most romantic ruin in Wales. Apparently, many people get engaged here and there is a place to tie the knot. Standing on a limestone crag, almost 300ft above the valley of the River Cennen, a tributary of the River Towy, it dominates the skyline. Our walk was a circumnavigation of the castle.

It is possible that the first stronghold here was an Iron Age hillfort and in the 12th century the fortress was a status symbol. The Welsh and English fought over it until Edward I seized it, and later the Giffards built the impressive fortress that remains today. What survives is a combination of 13th century architecture and 19th century restoration, as the castle was deliberately demolished in the 1460s.

We walked past the tea rooms, uphill towards the entrance to the castle. This would be the best point, in the walk, to visit the castle, as it is an uphill climb from the tearoom. Following the Beacons Way, we arrived at woodland, Coed y Castell. This is on the southern slopes of the limestone crag and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a local Nature Reserve, due to the habitat supporting insects and birds such as the Pied Flycatcher and Woodpecker. The castle sits on a fault known as the Carreg Cennen Disturbance which stretches from the Marches to Pembrokeshire. As well as creating the limestone outcrop on which the castle stands it also produces an unusual feature; rocks on one side of the fault are limestone and dominated by ash trees and on the other side sandstone supports oak trees.

Limestone creates sinkholes as acid rain eats away at the limestone underground until the roof falls in and a sinkhole is established. There are also grassy craters made by our predecessors looking for limestone, which was heated to make a dressing for fields. The walk descended into the valley where we found fast flowing streams which we had not seen in a long time because of the summer’s dry spell. We gained excellent views of the castle as we climbed up to Beddau’r Derwyddon. Not really Druid’s graves, as the name implies, but man-made pillow mounds, which are earthworks built as rabbit warrens, to farm rabbits for their meat and fur.

We crossed Nant Llygad Llwchwr via a sturdy bridge, built by the Army, who do a lot of work on the footpaths, as they use the Black Mountain for training exercises. The many caves in the area make the Llygad Llwchwr popular with cavers.

Now we spread out to find comfortable spots to relax over lunch. Refreshed we climbed a long flight of steps up a hill. Outcrops of the black, burnt-looking fungus which is King Alfred’s cake and a red bracket fungus were spotted on trees.

It was a hot day and, when we came to a road, a splinter group decided to take a shortcut back to the castle, as we had been told that the tea rooms closed at 3 pm and they wanted a drink before going home.

The rest of us continued through the village of Trapp and passed Carreg Cennen farm. We followed footpaths across fields and noted that the countryside seemed lush and unspoilt even though it was farmed; it is difficult to put a finger on what was different, but it felt more natural than the carefully managed farmland we see in most places. The castle loomed over us, and the Beacons Way provided the route back to the beginning of the walk.

We had heard plenty of birdsong and seen several birds of prey and dainty harebells, as well as a sign warning that adders might be basking! Apparently 100,000 people visit the farm each year but only 40,000 people visit the castle.

The day had been hot and humid, and we were glad to discover that the tea rooms were in fact open until 4.45 pm (lunch served until 3pm). We were so happy some of us had both beer and ice-cream!

Walk 6.2m 1000ft Map OL14

 

Abbey Dore

Abbey Dore

Abbey Dore

This walk took us to Herefordshire, where we parked outside Dore Abbey. Crossing the road a footpath went south across quite a steep field and signposts indicated that we were on the Herefordshire trail. Ewyas (pronounced you us) Harold Common presented us with a plethora of footpaths through dense, high bracken. Woodland areas have a tree canopy which is mainly English oak, silver birch, ash, sycamore, field maple and wych elm.

The common covers 50ha on a plateau above Herefordshire’s Golden Valley. Parts of the common are bounded by ancient sunken lanes, and other parts by medieval parish boundaries. All the common British reptiles have been found here including slow-worms and common lizards. A spring that rises on the common, through limestone outcrops, is known as St Martin’s well and it supplied water to many generations of people living close to the well. Several old boundary stones mark the border between Ewyas Harold and other parishes.

Emerging onto a hard track we could hear a horse and were surprised to see a lone horse with no rider trotting down the track. It seemed to follow us, but in a while the rest of the herd were spotted grazing on the common and the puzzle was solved.

We had views of the surrounding hills and the rolling English countryside. We passed through Ewyas Harold village where the primary school displayed a colourful wall of tiles created by the school pupils in 2017. The village boasted two pubs, a butcher, post office and other businesses. Outside one house ‘the old malthouse witch no. 29’ made from twigs, stood guard and fruit, vegetables and flowers were for sale with an honesty box.

Just outside the village a noticeboard declared that we were at the remains of Ewyas Harold Castle, which is believed to have been built by the Saxons before the Norman conquest. Today only earthworks remain. Nearby ‘Old King Street farm’ has holiday cottages where it is possible to walk with llamas.

Now we walked west and came across clusters of unusual fungi on large old trees. Herefordshire boasts a high concentration of ancient oak trees due to a combination of historical land management practices and the favourable conditions for oak growth in the region. Specifically, the Norman Conquest in 1066 led to the establishment of deer parks and royal forests, which, while intended for hunting, inadvertently preserved ancient oaks. These areas with their woodland and grazing practices, provided ideal habitats for oaks to thrive and reach great age.

The day had heated up and as we approached a trough, Misty – a spaniel decided it was time for a dip and instead of just taking a drink jumped into a trough. She gave us all a laugh.

We passed Dulas Court, originally a 16th century house; it was rebuilt in the mid-19th century and incorporates some of the original house – oak panels, Norman doorway. The original church was demolished and the site cleared to make a lawn! It is now a care home.

There is a dilapidated church down the road (closed and barriers surround it) where we stopped for lunch. The churchyard had a row of identical gravestones each of which was dedicated to a musician. They all died in the 1980s in their 80s and 90s; we wondered about their story. A military 1940s grave of someone from the Hereford regiment is pristine.

Now we entered a nature reserve and found ourselves climbing over some very high, slightly rickety, ladder stiles. After walking across open grassland, we realised why as a herd of deer ran in front of us!

A brief walk along the road past Abbey Dore Court brought us back to the beginning of our walk and the highlight of the day, Dore Abbey. There is free access, and we spent some time exploring the magnificent church. Established in 1147, it was founded by Cistercian monks from Morimond, France. The Abbey was dissolved in 1536, but Dore is the only Cistercian Abbey in the country still used for worship as a Parish church. The original medieval altar was found on a local farm being used for salting meat and making cheese. The Abbey expanded its land holdings, particularly through the acquisition of good quality farmland granted to them by King John in 1216. This enabled the Abbey to become wealthy especially through the sale of wool. It is well worth a visit.

A return to Ewyas Harold by car enabled us to enjoy refreshments in one of the village hostelries after a satisfying day.

Walk 6.7m 915ft Map OL13

 

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