Category: Footsteps

Black Mountains

We started out from Mynydd Du forest car park, apparently this is the largest forest in the Brecon Beacons National Park. We walked along a stream and crossed it via a bridge. The track led us through trees and gradually we began to climb the valley. The track became narrower and in places there was a steep drop to the stream below. As our ascent continued we came out into the open to walk along the edge of a felled forest. The gradient had increased and with the sun coming out it was getting a ‘bit warm’, we were glad whenever a cloud arrived to give us some relief. The last section of the climb was very steep and the path rocky in places. The good news was that we had climbed to a ridge and the remainder of the walk would be relatively easy.SEPT### IMG_5378

We reached the summit of Pen y Gadair Fawr at 800metres. There was a profound silence, nothing to remind us of modern society, not even any planes. And we could see for miles in all directions, uninterrupted views of mountains and no wind turbines! It was 12.45 but we decided to continue to the next high point before stopping for lunch.

The paths are excellent on the top, grit having been laid by National Park rangers to preserve the moorland and peat. We had a glimpse of the reservoir at Gwynne Fawr as we headed towards our second peak of the day, Waun Fach at 811metres. By now we had split into two groups 3 people striding out ahead and 3 of us just a bit further back. It was definitely lunchtime but they kept going and a black cloud gathered in the sky above us. ‘Maybe they’re trying to get out of the cloud before lunch’ I thought. But no they eventually stopped and we were able to sit on piles of empty sacks which had been used to haul all the stone up the mountain for the paths. It was cool only 17degC under the cloud but all around was bathed in sunshine. It was so clear that we could see Hay on Wye to the north and the Malverns in the east.

After lunch we turned for home passing the Dragonsback on our left. Our descent was gradual taking us towards Gwynne Fawr reservoir which had a bothy at its head. It was now a very warm day and we enjoyed the proliferation of wildlife around us –

butterflies, bees, dragonflies, many plants and gorgeously cool mountain streams. The final stretch was rough stones which was a bit tough on the feet after such a demanding walk. We weren’t surprised to hear that the guide book had described the walk as ‘strenuous’. We’d covered 9.7miles and a 1500ft climb, which included the 2 highest peaks in the Black Mountains. (Map OL13)

Waterfall Country

 

Waterfall Country

 (OS map OL12)Pontneddfechan is a former silica mining hub and sits at the confluence of the rivers Mellte and Nedd Fechan. Silica mining took place in this area from the 18th century to the mid 1960s. Because of its high resistance to heat, silica was used to make ‘fire bricks’ used in the construction of kilns and furnaces for the copper, steel and iron industries. Although silica can be converted to silicon – the material used to create the tiny circuits which power computers – the mines had closed before global demand for pure silicon took off, and it is now mostly manufactured in China.

AUG IMG_0395We arrived at Pontneddfechan on a misty morning and took a footpath after passing one of the local hostelries and soon found ourselves following the river Nedd Fechan on its western bank. It was immediately obvious that there was plenty water in the river as we could clearly hear the water rushing on its way. Hopefully this promised full waterfalls but a little worrying as we were hoping to cross the river further up. The footpath had clear signs of once carrying a railway and no doubt this would have brought silica from the mines.

Waterfall country is an area of deep valleys, rocky gorges and ancient woodlands. The footpaths are well marked but on a wet day some of them were quite slippery and as usual there were warnings ‘Danger Rivers in this area can be cold, deep, fast flowing’. Even with the persistent rain the valley was beautiful and we enjoyed many ‘minor waterfalls’. We soon reached the confluence of the Rivers Pyrddin and Nedd Fechan.

We followed the river Pyrddin in a north westerly direction, hoping to reach Sgwd Gwladys and Sgwd Einion. We reached Sgwd Gwladys (Lady falls), which was in full flow from a 6 metre drop. Below the waterfall the river enters a deep pool and then widens out with shingle areas making it possible for us to cross the water (somewhat tentatively in the faster flowing areas). We continued along the river Pyrddin and soon came to the place we would have to cross the river again in order to reach Sgwd Einion Gam. The river was wide and deep in places, with fast flowing water and very little prospect of a crosing place. The men walked along the bank and into the river but couldn’t find anywhere we’d all have been happy to cross so we had to save Sgwd Einion Gam for another day.

# AUG fs IMG_5357Legend has it that Gwladys, a daughter of Brychan, 5th century king of Brycheiniog, fell in love with Einion after whom a waterfall is named Sgwd Einion Gam. Although she could never be with him in life, in immortality their spirits still flow together merging in the pool below Sgwd Gwladys.

Our path took us back to the river Nedd Fechan where we saw a sign indicating a silica mine a short distance away. We were heading along the Elidir trail towards the Horseshoe Falls. On arrival at the falls, most of us walked out across slippery rocks to look upriver at the Lower Sgwd Ddwli. A select band elected to walk along the edge of the river to reach these spectacular falls; whilst the rest of us awaited their return.

# AUG fs IMG_5339Continuing the path led us above Upper Sgwd Ddwli where we spotted some splendid fungi growing along a fallen tree. At Pont Melin fach, a picnic spot, we stopped for lunch beside a now gentle river, thinking how lovely it would be on a sunny day. From here we headed across the bridge and on to Comin y Rhos. We were in the clouds now and could see little of our surroundings. The area had waist high grass, plenty of water underfoot and it was difficult to see signposts in the mist but our excellent map readers kept us on a steady route and we negotiated it successfully.

# AUG fs IMG_0950Heading south we continued across boggy ground until we reached the golf course near Pontneddfechan. At last, solid mown grass to walk on but still visibility was low. Having been surrounded by cloud, mizzle or rain all day we were all feeling very damp when we arrived at our starting point having covered 7.5 miles and climbed 1000ft. (Map OL12). How nice it would have been to do this walk on a summer’s day, but this was mid July. What would it be like in winter?

Pontneddfechan and Penderyn

We started from Craig y Ddinas a towering stone wall which translates as ‘Fortress Rock’. The car park was busy and groups of adventurers were donning wet suits and crash helmets ready for ‘gorge walking’ activities in this area famous for its beautiful waterfalls.

We kept to the southern side of the Afon Mellte as we set off and stayed on the lower path so that we could enjoy the sights and sounds of the teeming water below us. The valley was strewn with bluebells, was sheltered from any wind and felt warm even though the day was fresh.

After a short while we came to a bridge, with an excellent view of the river which led to the Gunpowder works. The Glyn-Neath Gunpowder Works, or Powder Mills, were established in 1857 to produce blasting powder (known as black powder) for use in coal mining and limestone quarrying. The works operated until 1931. It may seem strange to place such a factory in a steep valley but the location was actually well suited to the dangerous process of manufacturing gunpowder.

The site was large and remote, stretching over a mile and a half along the north bank of the River Mellte, with room to create plenty of space between each factory building to ensure that any explosions were localized. Safety was paramount; employees at the works wore leather slippers fastened with wooden pegs over their shoes and boots. Trousers were not allowed pockets or turn-ups to prevent grit to be carried into the works in case it caused sparks.

The river provided energy to turn waterwheels etc. and the raw materials required were sourced in the vicinity and moved upriver on a tram road. This tram road is used today as a level footpath, ‘The Powder Trail’ allowing visitors to explore the remains of the works.

Moving back across the bridge we climbed out of the valley and continued upriver until we arrived above the huge waterfall which is Sgwyd yr Eira – ‘fall of snow’.

We descended the steep and uneven path and a few people walked behind the waterfall to look at the world through a wall of water, very refreshing and exciting. The space behind the waterfall has been created by water eroding the soft rock behind it and there may be loose rocks so it isn’t advisable to stay too long.

As we came to the head of the valley we heard our first cuckoo of the year and as we emerged into open countryside its call became loud and clear. Then the terrain changed and we found ourselves stepping across tussocks in the moor trying not to dip into any of the waterlogged areas or turn an ankle (boots really earn their keep at times like these) but also enjoying some gentle climbing and the sunshine.

After a while we found ourselves in a very boggy area and although most of the group successfully negotiated it someone at the back (yours truly) stepped on a tussock which promptly descended at a rate of knots leaving her with one leg up to the knee in brackish water, and falling forward onto the peaty bog. A nearby friend quickly grabbed her arm and helped her out, one leg now soaking wet from knee to toes and the other knee soaked. As the sun was hot the trousers were soon drying.

The path was easier near Penderyn, although tempted to stop, we walked past the Tavern Llew Goch and arrived at St Cynog’s church. It has a distinctive weather vane that looked like a peacock but on closer inspection is a cockerel.

#a JUNE W1 IMG_4864Lunch was in a nearby field and we could hear a peacock calling. Lunch took a little longer than usual as a certain person changed into spare socks (carried for years but never used before) and spread various items out to dry in the sun. It was a very pleasant spot and our view splendid.

We were now on the final leg of the walk going generally west. Our route took us around Penderyn resevoir and through Trebanog Isaf. Then we came across a bunkhouse with a tap for people to wash their bicycles and next to it a brilliant gate made from old bicycles.

After crossing a very steep gully, with slippery stone – a challenge for many of us, once again helped by friends- and an open area we made our way back to arrive at Craig y Ddinas once more.

A lovely day’s walking, though a bit wet underfoot at times we clocked up 8 miles and 1500ft.

Bargoed

We started the Bargoed walk in the Pengam area. Soon after starting, we came across a very tall sculpture in a small public garden. The 40ft statue, which is called the Lady of the Stream, was erected in 2009. It stands on a former ash-tip, which was reclaimed as a playground and then became rundown. The statue depicts a woman watching over children in the area, supposedly in reference to Pengam folklore of youngsters drowning in a stream.

Moving away from the town we crossed Gelli-Gaer Common with the usual grazing horses. It was a grey day and the environment quite bleak. Within the Capel Gwladys area, there are regular shaped mounds, which are variously described as marching camps or Roman Practice camps. The Roman army was in the area from 47AD – 113AD and used these camps regularly to practice making temporary fortified camps by digging ditches and making ramparts.

We continued in a generally northerly direction towards Pen-y-garreg farm and then Deri where we turned southeast. In Parc Cwm Darren we came upon a memorial stone ‘In memory of those whose lives were touched by the tragic events at the Darren Colliery on October 29th 1909’, below are listed the 27 names of those who died.

As we came down the valley, we followed a fast flowing stream; a bridge we crossed had a sign nearby ‘Caradoc’s bridge’. Caradoc was a Silurian leader who fought against the Roman occupation in Wales, but was eventually captured and taken to Rome. It is believed that this bridge near Deri has been called Caradoc’s bridge in his memory. The valley was steep sided and had layers of stone beside the watercourse. One area had some lovely Gorse bushes in full bloom.

1459597376[1]Approaching the built up area of Bargoed, a large viaduct towered over us with many arches, some people scrambled down a steep slope to reach its base while most of us detoured through the local streets to come down more gradually.

Our route now took us through a recently created woodland park – The Bargoed Woodland Park, which covers Bargoed, Britannia and Gilfach collieries. The country park has been created from barren waste ground left after the closure of the last mine in 1985. 90,000 new trees, 6500 bulbs and 8000 wild flowers have been planted.  This was once part of the largest colliery tip in Europe. LS Lowry immortalised it in his 1965 painting ‘Bargoed’. The Rhymney River flows through the park and after the winter rains it was in full flow, there were rapids in places and a dipper was spotted flitting across the rocks midstream. 

Coming closer to the town again a pretty stream ran next to the path and we passed under a modern road bridge with a stylish profile. Our final stretch took us alongside the river Rhymney through a quiet wooded valley to return to the cars.

Total distance covered was 8.75miles and the climb was 950ft.

Penperlleni

this walk was our first since meteorological spring began and it was certainly a lovely day, lots of sunshine with some cloud and not too cold. Basically it was a lovely gentle country walk with swathes of wild primroses in places.

The route took us south from Penperlleni towards Little Mill and almost immediately we saw our first lambs of the season.  Next we approached Cwm Hir, we wondered what awaited us (given its English pronunciation) but we walked through it without spotting anything of note.

Later there was an old metal, elaborate structure which carried a water course over a railway. From here we made our way to Glascoed and then towards Monkswood. We were now approaching the River Usk and as we passed through a field with a large flock of sheep an oldfashioned windmill could be seen in the distance. Lunch on the banks of the Usk was delightful in the sunshine with the fast flowing river very close.

Unfortunately we had to climb uphill straight after eating (always a challenge) but definitely worth it. Towards the end we passed a lane with a sign ‘No Parking  Entrance in use DAY and NIGHT’ – pretty impressive since the lane was blocked by a fallen tree.

We reached the cars and as we took off boots, the weather changed and we had a short flurry of sleet/hail, we had covered 7.25 miles and 900ft.

Footsteps – Bedwas

Parking in Bedwas outside a church, we set off up hill walking towards Trethomas. Bedwas’s origins in the coal industry were clear as looking to our left huge spoil heaps crowned the hills; for the first time this year (on one of our walks) topped by a lovely blue sky.

As we progressed up the hill we came upon a ruin and this was to prove to be a feature of the day. It was a route dotted with ruins and even small slag heaps, one looking like a pyramid. From Trethomas our route took us northeast, west towards Ty canol, then in a generally northerly direction above the Sirhowy valley.

As we headed across a waterlogged field we found an old green lane with trees arching overhead, casting dappled shadows in the sunlight and dry underfoot – lovely. We came upon a farm and a sheep dog decided to join us. I’ll refer to it as ‘he’ but in truth he had such a thick coat that we couldn’t tell whether it was a male or female and one of our party named him/her ‘Fluff’.

On came Fluff through the farm gates (which he could have got under), across a series of fast flowing streams and through an area overgrown with bracken and brambles, all this uphill. At this point he got fed up with the rough going and went through a hole in the fence and ran across an open field – as if to say ‘what on earth are you doing scrambling there when there’s this lovely field to run across’.

We assumed that he’d got a bit bored with us as we watched him run off to herd some sheep in the distance. We continued upwards and, as we looked back, could see Fluff looking at us from the other side of a fence around the field below us. Now we thought 'he’s on the wrong side of that fence so that’s the last we’ll see of him'.

Still climbing, we were confident we’d lost him until 5-10 minutes later there he was again walking alongside us. We decided that if he stuck with us for the whole walk we’d bring him back home by car. Then we arrived at a boggy bit of moorland where a farmer and his wife were putting out feed for their cattle.

Being farmers they were well equipped and produced a dog lead, put it on the dog and lifted him into their tractor cab. They were amazed at how far he’d followed us and promised to take him back home. We carried on over the top of the ridge at the head of the valley and headed south. We were exposed to a very cold wind and even though the sun was shining brightly, we kept moving to stay warm.

Dark clouds appeared in the distance and cleared off quickly. There were superb views out to the channel and we could see England clearly. As we started to descend we came through some very wet lanes, some flooded. One was so deep that we walked tentatively through it, trying not to create any waves which would have allowed water into our boots.

Soon we found a high sided lane, which became our refuge for lunch. Towards the end of our break we heard the sound of a hunting horn, moving away and then coming closer and closer. A shadow passing across us let us know they were in the field behind us. A lone hound went bounding up the lane in front of us.

footsteps02Some time later the master in his red coat came out of the field and passed us, followed closely by a pack of hounds, none of them paying us any attention so intent on their task were they. Four black jacketed riders and another red jacket joined them from the opposite direction and they disappeared back down the lane. One of them said they were out training and we hadn’t seen a fox. Some distance away we could see sheep on the hill flocking together and rushing across the hill side, we hoped none of them were pregnant ewes.

We packed up and continued, mostly down hill and crossing very full streams. Arriving in Bedwas we had walked 8 miles and climbed 1400ft. All day we’d been saying isn’t this marvellous – no rain and sunshine from start to finish magic!

Footsteps – Rockfield and St. Maughans

Rockfield, a country village just outside Monmouth was our starting point. From the church we walked a short way on road and transferred almost immediately into a field with the occasional pale lilac of Lady’s Smock flowers and white flowers on spikes of Annual Nettle. We turned west and went over a field of stubble with evidence of recent muck spreading; ahead were two oak trees just coming into leaf and in the next field was a sole Canada goose. We passed a group of Longhorn cattle, many having one horn pointing upwards and the other downwards. Avoiding a growing crop by keeping to the field margin brought us to a restored farm building in a delightful spot with a stream and trees adjacent. We continue north-west and reached St. Cadoc’s church at Llangattock-Vibon-Avel where the lych-gate has a plaque commemorating the meeting of Charles Rolls and Henry Royce in 1904. The Rolls-Royce Company contributed towards the refurbishment of the lych-gate and Chares Rolls is buried in the churchyard because his family the Llangattocks have their roots here. Taking a path along the edge of a growing crop we reached woodland and had a lunch break sitting on a fallen tree trunk.

Continuing on a path through the woodland we started to go north-east; after a section uphill on grass we came to a group of bullocks and passed them by remaining close to the hedge. As we left their field they bellowed loudly. We now reached a stream down in a fairly steep gully without any obvious crossing places and were forced to take a detour. As an alternative was being established there was time to enjoy the groups of spring flowers on the top of the bank and birdsong from the trees. Once we picked up the original intended route we headed towards St. Maughans. The sky was overcast and the hills ahead showed misty light rain but so far we were being lucky. The church tower at St. Maughans had square spaces in it rather like a dovecote but possibly to amplify the sound of the bells. Regrettably colours in the landscape were muted and the undulating hills ahead were mostly grey.

We reached Tregate Bridge over the River Monnow which takes the road over into England. In the early 1600’s at the time of Roman Catholic persecutions this area was the scene of much clandestine activity; many of the landowners here were sympathetic to the Catholic cause and Mass was held illegally along the river bank. On occasions Catholics fled from England and sought refuge in Wales and vice versa. We continued with the river on our left leaving three realistic scarecrows in a field behind us. Ahead willows marked the borders of two fields while in one place the river bank had eroded and collapsed. On the other side of the river we could just see the remnants of a Motte and Bailey. As many will know this is a form of castle of stone or wood on raised earthworks and surrounded by a protective ditch and fence. They became common after the Norman Conquest.

Our final leg was south-west and we took a track which brought us past an ancient square tower by a farm.The earlier sixteenth century building here was named Plas-yn-y-berth (the mansion within the long fence) and had been a manor house, a mesne manor of the Lordship of Monmouth i.e. within the domain of the Lordship. Back in the modern world there was a camper van by the farm with a young child sitting looking expectant about a drive. We crossed the stubbly field to go towards Rockfield. The road into the village passed a studio where some famous rock groups recorded: Led Zeppelin did some work and Queen recorded "Bohemian Rhapsody" here. All in all what appeared to be a quiet corner of Monmouthshire had given us a most interesting and varied walk.

ANSWER THE HEDGEHOG SOS.

The humble hedgehog is now as endangered as the tiger and could disappear within the next decade so now is the time for action so what can we do?

Hedgehogs travel over great distances – the size of 2 football pitches to find food but it’s becoming more difficult with the increase of walls, fences and other boundaries in their way. A hedgehog – hole at the bottom of a fence or a brick removed from the wall will allow hedgehogs safe passage across gardens to forage more widely. Such a small thing can make a really big difference to the life of these creatures. Slugs and snails are food for hedgehogs but don’t use slug pellets

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