Castell Carreg Cennen
Castell Carreg Cennen
Castell Carreg Cennen
We parked in the castle car park, near Llandeilo, and were thrilled to spot a kite soaring directly above us as we donned our boots. The castle and farm are currently owned by the Llewelyn family, but the castle is managed by Cadw.
It is one of the most picturesque castles in Wales. Viewers of Countryfile voted it the most romantic ruin in Wales. Apparently, many people get engaged here and there is a place to tie the knot. Standing on a limestone crag, almost 300ft above the valley of the River Cennen, a tributary of the River Towy, it dominates the skyline. Our walk was a circumnavigation of the castle.
It is possible that the first stronghold here was an Iron Age hillfort and in the 12th century the fortress was a status symbol. The Welsh and English fought over it until Edward I seized it, and later the Giffards built the impressive fortress that remains today. What survives is a combination of 13th century architecture and 19th century restoration, as the castle was deliberately demolished in the 1460s.
We walked past the tea rooms, uphill towards the entrance to the castle. This would be the best point, in the walk, to visit the castle, as it is an uphill climb from the tearoom. Following the Beacons Way, we arrived at woodland, Coed y Castell. This is on the southern slopes of the limestone crag and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a local Nature Reserve, due to the habitat supporting insects and birds such as the Pied Flycatcher and Woodpecker. The castle sits on a fault known as the Carreg Cennen Disturbance which stretches from the Marches to Pembrokeshire. As well as creating the limestone outcrop on which the castle stands it also produces an unusual feature; rocks on one side of the fault are limestone and dominated by ash trees and on the other side sandstone supports oak trees.
Limestone creates sinkholes as acid rain eats away at the limestone underground until the roof falls in and a sinkhole is established. There are also grassy craters made by our predecessors looking for limestone, which was heated to make a dressing for fields. The walk descended into the valley where we found fast flowing streams which we had not seen in a long time because of the summer’s dry spell. We gained excellent views of the castle as we climbed up to Beddau’r Derwyddon. Not really Druid’s graves, as the name implies, but man-made pillow mounds, which are earthworks built as rabbit warrens, to farm rabbits for their meat and fur.
We crossed Nant Llygad Llwchwr via a sturdy bridge, built by the Army, who do a lot of work on the footpaths, as they use the Black Mountain for training exercises. The many caves in the area make the Llygad Llwchwr popular with cavers.
Now we spread out to find comfortable spots to relax over lunch. Refreshed we climbed a long flight of steps up a hill. Outcrops of the black, burnt-looking fungus which is King Alfred’s cake and a red bracket fungus were spotted on trees.
It was a hot day and, when we came to a road, a splinter group decided to take a shortcut back to the castle, as we had been told that the tea rooms closed at 3 pm and they wanted a drink before going home.
The rest of us continued through the village of Trapp and passed Carreg Cennen farm. We followed footpaths across fields and noted that the countryside seemed lush and unspoilt even though it was farmed; it is difficult to put a finger on what was different, but it felt more natural than the carefully managed farmland we see in most places. The castle loomed over us, and the Beacons Way provided the route back to the beginning of the walk.
We had heard plenty of birdsong and seen several birds of prey and dainty harebells, as well as a sign warning that adders might be basking! Apparently 100,000 people visit the farm each year but only 40,000 people visit the castle.
The day had been hot and humid, and we were glad to discover that the tea rooms were in fact open until 4.45 pm (lunch served until 3pm). We were so happy some of us had both beer and ice-cream!
Walk 6.2m 1000ft Map OL14