Category: Footsteps

Brecon & Llanthony Priory

Brecon 

This was a delightful walk, we parked north of Brecon and took a footpath through the cathedral grounds. The mixed woodland (oak, beech, hazel and alder trees) of Priory Groves borders the river Honddu, and is about a mile long. Birds sang, the river tinkled, the scent of bluebells hung in the air and the sun shone through the branches as we strode along, heavenly.

We emerged into open farmland where the Pen y Fan range came into view dominating the skyline. Heifers showed interest in us and a local farmer drove towards us apparently to check that the two dogs were under control. Unsurprising, as the next field had a bull and cows with their calves. As we travelled northwest a few footpaths proved a challenge but the many spring lambs in varying shades were entertaining and the views fabulous. At the northernmost point of the walk a missing footbridge across the river Honddu forced us to retrace about 1 kilometre to take an alternative route. So, we stopped for lunch on the edge of a field trying to avoid nettles and thorns as we sat.

We took a road west until we were beside the iron age, Pen-y-crug fort, where we climbed a footpath to the top of the fort. We had superb 360o views of Pen y Fan and other hills of the Brecon Beacons and of Brecon lying to the south-east.

A wide grass path led us down into Brecon near Maen-du well. The dogs paddled in muddy water before a brief foray into a clear stream and the humans looked at the stone building around the well. An excellent day’s walking rounded off with a drink in the sunshine at the pub in Libanus.

Walk 7.25m 1125ft. Map OL12

Llanthony Priory

Another beautiful walk, this time in the Black mountains above Llanthony Priory. As we set off, we realised we were sharing the mountain with a few other people! Lots of cars were parked in a field, with a marquee, a police presence and a ‘Finish

Line’. Longtown Mountain Rescue were holding their annual fund raiser with 850 participants! As we climbed, we saw few people, as luckily, our route differed from the event.

Our surroundings were a pastoral idyll, with lush grass, trees in full leaf and ewes with their lambs. The climb was demanding, and we all took breaks to look at the tiny people and vehicles below and to gaze at the beautiful valleys and hills around us. The call of a cuckoo echoed up the valley and we were all reminded of days gone by when we regularly heard it. The Mountain Rescue helicopter flew up and down the Ewyas valley doing circuits until it eventually landed in a field near the priory just as we reached the ridge of the mountain and Offa’s Dyke path.

We were doing our route anticlockwise, and the event participants were going in the opposite direction. We reckoned they were walking further than us and gave way whenever necessary. There was a feeling of spaciousness along the ridge as the Black Mountains spread away from us. This area is spectacularly beautiful, and we enjoyed superb views with a light breeze and sunshine all day long.

As we turned to start our descent, we looked for a moment at the cairn where we had laid a stone in memory of a fellow walker. It was lunchtime and we took ourselves a good distance off the main path to relax. Everyone started to divert off the path towards us, obviously assuming we were part of the event, even though there was no visible path. One woman asked, ‘Is that real?’ referring to a white horse that was stood stationary behind us, staring at the people. Perhaps she was from Milton Keynes?

Hang gliders took off from the mountain opposite and rode the thermals to come over Offa’s Dyke. We joked that maybe they could give us a lift down the mountain. Now we had a steep descent, the path was clear as bracken had been cut back. Stone markers pointed us to Capel y Ffin as we descended and hawthorn trees heavy with white blossom dotted the hillside, but I had to keep my eye on the path or risk vertigo.

Arriving at the road that runs along the Vale of Ewyas we discovered that the road to Capel y Ffin was closed to all but walkers due to a landslide. We headed towards Llanthony enjoying the warm afternoon and the beauty of the valley.

Jams were inevitable as Llanthony traffic met other vehicles on the narrow road, but we had a cunning plan and headed for the Crown at Pantygelli where the refreshments were excellent.

Walk 7.3m 1300ft. Map OL13

Wolvesnewton and Trebanog

Wolvesnewton

This was a walk, west of Chepstow exploring the Monmouthshire countryside, taking in three churches and passing the Model farm.

It was a clear sunny day, but the beginning of March and frost remained in shaded places all day. Someone had had some fun, models of a dragon, a green man and an otter were alongside a stream.

We reached Kilgwrrwg Church, the first of the day, within half an hour of setting out. It is tiny with good views. A remote rural spot even today, in times past food would have been provided by strip farming, rotating crops such as wheat and corn. Someone had compiled a folder with information on births, deaths and marriages in the Parish. Leaving the churchyard, we queued to climb over a fallen tree blocking the footpath.

Tramping over lush grassland we saw our first lambs of the season. The medieval, St Thomas a Becket Church at Wolvesnewton is a larger affair on a no through road which was the main road until 19thC. It has a medieval preaching cross and churchyard. A door on the north wall of the church (the wrong side) was sometimes called the Devil’s door and it would be left open during baptism to let evil spirits escape. It is now blocked up. A stained-glass window inside depicts child angels bringing light to the gentiles.

The model farm and folk museum, which opened in 1972 and closed after 14 years, was on our route and a few of us could remember visiting it. It displayed a vast array of items from rural life spanning the Victorian era to Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. There is no evidence of it now apart from a large house, some distance from the track.

Continuing we passed a wildflower meadow, a herd of llamas, and the first frog spawn of the year. At lunchtime we spread out along a bank beside the track, and a few walked to a picnic table below us. After lunch, there was some rough ground and a steep path to tackle, quite difficult after eating. At the top, there was more frog spawn and elfin cap fungus. A pony was scratching around for food in a stony field.

St Peter’s church at Newchurch was the 3rd church of the day, the land it stands on was granted to Tintern Abbey at the time of the Norman invasion. The Bristol Channel and the Cotswolds are visible from here. The yews near the gate were planted in the early 18thC and the church is built entirely of red coarse sandstone. The octagonal font is believed to originate in the 12thC.

Near the end of the walk, a house had a plaque dedicated to Martha Gellhorn (1908- 1998) who had lived there. She was an American novelist, travel writer and journalist who is considered one of the great war correspondents of the 20th C. She reported on most major world conflicts that took place over her 60- year career. She was also the third wife of Ernest Hemingway.

During the walk we had seen celandine (common name pilewort as the roots look like piles), primroses, daffodils and crocuses at the carpark. Before long we were at the nearest pub sampling delicious beer and tea. Walk 7m 1100ft. Map OL14.

 

Trebanogn

This was a bit of a surprise to most of us, Trebanog sits above Porth, and we parked there to avoid a 300ft climb. This was early April but as we got out of the cars a cold, keen wind cut into us, and we all added layers to our clothes. The surprise was the extent of the greenery up here given the large population of the valleys.

People had used stones from an old wall to create tall cairns in places. We could see the whole of Porth and even parts of the Rhondda valley. We were walking on old coal tips and found ewes with their lambs spread over a large area.

About half of us decided to add a little extra to the walk by climbing an easy short distance to a trig point. That was all very well but the steep descent through bracken was a challenge, and we were glad to get back to the rest of the group.

As we walked, Eleri a 13-year-old made up the plot for a story based on our journey, only time will tell whether it makes the pages of What’s On.

Many birds were spotted including the first swallows of the year, skylarks, buzzards, a kite, crows and ducks on a pond. We even saw another herd of llamas.

Drinks at the Cross Inn near Llantrisant rounded off the day nicely. Walk 7m 800ft Map OS166.

Lliw Reservoir & Nuppend, Alvington

Lliw Reservoir

After a longish drive, more of us than usual, arrived at the lower Lliw reservoir, and were happy to see a café. The café has a handy leaflet describing local footpaths and points of interest.

The reservoir was built in 1867, following an 1859 cholera epidemic which gripped Swansea. The advent of clean water halved mortality rates in two years and Swansea was declared the third healthiest town in the UK. Nearly 30 years later the Upper Lliw reservoir was built, as the lower reservoir had always leaked. After over 100 years, in 1979, the dam for the lower reservoir was completely rebuilt so that the two combined now supply water across South Wales.

We walked across the dam and alongside the western side of the lower reservoir on a good tarmac path. At the head of the reservoir where an otter sculpture enthralled us, we crossed the River Lliw to continue north along the river, still on a good track, to arrive eventually at the Upper reservoir.

At an abandoned quarry a kite soared out and over us, so majestic. We watched a while as it dipped and soared at speed, soon out of sight. A gate at the Upper Lliw had a mechanism which took 5 padlocks, each with its own security code and able to release the lock – clever. Interesting, Victorian, metal and stone structures decorate the Upper Lliw, and wind turbines provide a modern backdrop.

Now we crossed the Upper dam and headed out onto wide open upland commons via a woodland. Even though it was the end of winter, we were surprised and pleased to find it relatively dry underfoot, though the moorland looked more like a desert than grassland. We found the first frog spawn of the year, including some tadpoles, in a brackish puddle with reedy grass. We also found a stone which marked the Gower Way – a long way from the Gower we thought! But the Gower way has 50 of these marker stones and extends from Penlle’r Castell to Rhosilli – a 56Km route. Up here the views are extensive as there are no trees. We spread out as we walked at our individual speeds, coming back together when we found rocks beside a path providing an ideal lunch stop.

The return involved a steepish descent through brown bracken which the children amongst us seemed to thoroughly enjoy whilst some of us were more tentative. We met the Cwm Ysgiath walk covering the lower Lliw reservoir and south, returning via Felindre. Now we followed a small section of our outward journey before returning on the eastern side of the Lower Lliw reservoir.

Back at the car park we looked at pieces of metal which looked like giant bath plugs but are valves which controlled the flow of water to Swansea from the reservoir.

This was a super walk with good paths and quite wild in places; as well as kites we saw corvids, larks and a couple of grebes. Tea and ice-cream in the café finished it off nicely. [Walk 7.5m 850ft. MapOS165]

Nuppend, Alvington

At Alvington, between Chepstow and the Forest of Dean, in England, we walked through Nuppend. The footpath went through a field with several tractors. The driver nearest us said ‘if you wait a few minutes, I will create a path for you to walk across’ How nice was that? We were happy to cross the few ditches to access the flattened path that stretched right across the field.

At Beanhill a sward of grass was full of bright daisies and crocuses. On farmland we stopped for a brief conversation, crossed a stream to a road, then found a courier had delivered a parcel to the top of the drive – possibly a box of wine but we resisted any inclination to check!

As we entered woodland. the footpath was devastated by the removal of trees felled by storm Darragh and forest thinning prioritising broadleaved trees. The going was heavy, but persevering, we came to a high wall (a bridge?) which we realised was originally a dam. We descended to the stream and climbed to a ridge covered in rhododendron and laurel bushes. After struggling to find the footpath we dropped onto it and things became easier.

The walk passed through woodland with many sweet chestnuts. We saw a shed full of calves, a handsome white-faced ram with ewes and palomino horses. Snowdrops, primroses, yellow comfrey, comfrey and coltsfoot were all spotted. At one point a basketball hoop stood at the side of the road, the traffic here must be very light.

The return route passed places with strange names: Rough Raging, Hanging wood, Upper and Lower Bargain wood, West Hunger Hill. The day was rounded off with drinks in a local hostelry, [Walk 7m 1040ft. Map OL14]

A Few ‘Experiences’ From Four Walks

A Few ‘Experiences’ from Four Walks

The winter weather for our walks has been mixed with less than the usual amount of rain but…twice we have abandoned due to the weather; once for a storm and once for heavy rain. All the walks are on map OS151. Unusually, rather than describe full walks I am describing a few ‘experiences’.

Ely Valley Walk 8m 550ft.

A visit to the Pendoylan/Peterston-super Ely area.

As we crossed a field a pigeon landed on someone’s back and even when shoo-ed away continued to follow us, landing on various people’s heads and backs. It didn’t give up until at a junction of paths, Misty, the dog, decided to chase it and after much fluttering and briefly landing, it flew off. Someone else who walked in the same area a couple of weeks later had a similar experience.

We needed to cross the railway and had the excitement of telephoning for permission. We were told to wait for two trains. We found it hard to believe that the second train hadn’t already gone until it roared past us. This is a very fast line! A second phone call confirmed that we had crossed safely, and we continued, past a house called Pratt’s Bottom.

The latter part of the walk was across very muddy, wet and smelly fields where we hopped and jumped from grassy clump to grassy clump. At a stream crossing, with a steep muddy bank, one person heroically stood at the foot of the bank to help us across. Yours truly jumped across and up the bank to end up sprawled face down in the mud. Luckily most people missed the entertainment and someone helped me up!

Drinks to recover were enjoyed in the Red Lion, Bonvilston.

Cowbridge Walk 7 m 500ft.

Well, we thought the Ely valley was muddy but at least there we had water to wash it off. At the end of this walk which looped from Llanblethian to Siginstone, all of us had more mud on our boots and clothes than at any time this year.

The final leg of the walk took in the Coffin stiles which lie on farmland to the west of the new estate in Cowbridge. These stiles connect Penllyn with Llanfrynach church and were used when a coffin needed to be carried to the church for a funeral. Each has a double stile with a pillar in the centre to rest the coffin as the bearers cross.

Walking through the Clare Garden estate, West Cowbridge we spotted three brick chimney shaped structures which we presume were sculptures, but we were confused by them. We saw a few spring flowers, snowdrops, daffodils and primroses but no frog spawn or lambs this year yet. Everything seems late, presumably because of the low light levels.

Drinks in Baffle Haus.

Cardiff Bay

This was Bert’s monthly midweek walk. We parked near the Oyster Catcher in Penarth Marina and walked across the river Ely, through the white-water centre where ambulance staff were training, towards the Hamadryad and the nature reserve before stopping at Coffee Mania in the Bay for coffee/tea. Then back across the barrage to Penarth marina. It was freezing cold, and we certainly felt the cutting wind as we walked across the barrage but all of us were glad we had turned up and enjoyed the chat.

The Hamadryad was a seaman’s hospital and later a psychiatric hospital in Cardiff docklands. Originally it was HMS Royal Hamadryad a hospital ship provided for seamen and situated on a piece of waste ground, known as Rat Island, and donated by the Marquis of Bute. A free hospital, it was funded by a levy on shipping at Cardiff Docks.

Walk 5 miles easy (i.e. flat and on firm surfaces throughout)

Taff Ely Ridgeway Walk 7m

Lastly, but by no means least, at the end of January, on a sunny morning with temperatures below freezing but rising we walked near the wind turbines. At the side of the paths, we saw several examples of ‘hair ice’. This is a rare type of ice formation where the presence of a particular fungus in rotting wood produces thin strands of ice which resemble hair. Conditions for the formation of this ice are specific; to form moist rotting wood from a broadleaf tree in the presence of moist air and a temperature below 0oC . How lucky were we to see it – It was beautiful

 

Cwm Gynfig and St Athan

Cwm Gynfig near Margam Park

January produced some icy weather, causing anxiety about the forecast of snow flurries or freezing rain after 4pm. We parked on a road south of the route to avoid driving on icy/narrow country lanes. Although cold (layers were the order of the day) it was a beautiful sunny day, and we were soon striding out. Until we met streams of water running across the road, hiding black ice in places, when shorter tentative steps were taken.

We laughed at a sign on a gate ‘No Trespassing If you weren’t invited you aren’t welcome’. A field of goats were hidden by a hedge, but they ran around as we passed.

As we approached a farm, a woman came towards us asking ‘Where are you going?’. ‘How friendly’ I thought. But she changed her whole demeanour, became very angry and told us in no uncertain terms that there was no footpath through her land and if we went across the fields, we would find sheep, cows and bulls. Several people had maps in their hand and tried to explain quietly ‘look the footpath is on the map’. She would not listen to reason and berating us told us to go back down the hill and take another track; of course, the track was not a footpath. Our skilled navigators soon had us back on route and the rest of the walk passed without incident.

As the morning progressed ice on the paths melted but the frost remained with surrounding fields and tree stumps often retaining a sparkling white veneer. We had excellent paths throughout and walked a variety of areas – woodland, open spaces, and farmland. We spotted some fungi, foxglove seed heads, a buzzard and a heron.

As we gained height, we observed the devastation caused by recent storms. Trees tumbling over one another like matchsticks. Emerging from the forest it was very cold, and we walked faster.

 

An area where stones littered the ground, and heather grew proved excellent for lunch. Then we returned through the valley surrounded by rusty-brown, bracken covered hillsides – so much better to look at than walk through.

We enjoyed warming tea at Pyle Garden centre.

Walk 8m 1000ft. Map OS151/166

St Athan

Parking in Aberthaw we discovered that one of us (who will remain nameless but has experienced many years walking the footpaths of South Wales), realised he had brought two left footed boots and would have to walk in the shoes he was wearing!

It was a grey day with glimmers of sunshine. We started by walking back up the road to the coastal road, we stepped out quite smartly, hesitating only to look over the parapet at the structures within Aberthaw

We walked north across land associated with a castle and investigated the remains of a dovecote. Several trees had large black bracket fungus on their trunks. As we approached St Athan a large caravan/chalet park could be seen in the sunshine.

Turning south we could see the airport; several planes were parked up. Then our most experienced walker said, ‘I’ve never walked this path.’ It was a very short section, but the walk planner was very pleased to find something new!

On reaching the coast we scrambled over the stones and through the 2nd world war sea defences to gaze out to sea while we ate our lunch. The tide was out but five surfers entertained us by riding the slightest of waves.

This part of the coastal path was wet underfoot until we reached the firmer path in Aberthaw. A structure out at sea is the sea water intake used for cooling in the power station .There is a tunnel connecting the caisson to the land so personnel could walk out to it if required.

As a coal fired power station Aberthaw could supply enough power for 1.5 million households. It is now silent and there was evidence of buildings and contents being dismantled. When it was active, coal trains would come in and out of the site on a continuous railroad without stopping; the carriages released their load from the bottom onto a conveyor belt which carried the coal to a store. There is now a hill of coal ash at the edge of the site where several species have set up home.

Reaching the end of the high wall around the power station, we walked through the nature reserve back to the cars. Drinks in the Blue Anchor rounded the day off nicely. Walk 7.8m 280ft. Map OS151

Wyndcliff to Tintern

Wyndcliff to Tintern

Wyndcliff to Tintern

The Lower Wye valley, Blackcliff and Wyndcliff, form a Site of Special Scientific interest containing rare plants and an ancient semi-natural woodland (dating back to at least 1600). Unusually small leaved lime trees grow over yews and rare plants include Twayblade orchid, toothwort, Tintern spurge and herb paris. Rare species include greater and lesser horseshoe bats, common dormice and high brown and silver-washed fritillary butterflies. Deer are a pest, as they have no predators.

A notice stated ‘Rich in natural beauty and natural resources the Wye valley has attracted both artists and industrialists. Abundant charcoal, limestone, timber, iron and water meant the lower Wye valley once teemed with forges, quarries, kilns and mills. As the birthplace of British tourism, a tour of the Wye valley also drew painters and poets from Turner to Wordsworth.’

We made our way to Upper Wyndcliff, part of the Wye Valley Woodlands. This was designated an area of outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in 1971 and straddles the border between Wales and England for a stretch of fifty-eight miles. A notice declares ‘Every season offers something special: bluebells in spring, lush summer leaves, fantastic autumn colour, and the beauty of winter tree silhouettes. Discover stately oak and beech trees as well as ash and cherry. We maintain the historic viewpoints by cutting back the trees. These offer spectacular views across the Wye gorge and river, across to the Bristol Channel and the old Severn bridge. You can enjoy these views all year round but especially in winter, when the leaves have fallen.’

And did we strike gold on our autumn walk. The ground and the trees were carpeted in golden beech and sweet chestnut leaves; it was a dull day, but the woodland glowed.

We passed a sign advertising ‘The Eagles Nest Trail’ a difficult walk of 1 hour and 1.25miles long. Now the walk started in earnest taking us up 365 steps to the top of the gorge. There is something about climbing steps which appears easier than walking up a slope, especially in this case as the steps vary in size from shallow steps to those which are a struggle for people with shorter legs. One section of the climb has a slanting metal bridge with a deep drop below it, scary if you suffer with vertigo and difficult for the person who had to carry their dog! As we climbed, we saw fungi, moss covering surfaces and amazing intricate tree roots clinging to steep faces.

Trees stood majestic a around us, dominating beeches gradually giving way to sweet chestnuts and then suddenly there were yews – more than any of us had ever seen growing in one place. We began to descend and moved into open fields where we could look back across the gorge to the autumnal colour of the woodland on the other side. On a side path we found the Tintern Limekiln, with two arched openings, it was used from 1700s onwards, for making lime by heating limestone to 1,000 degrees C. The lime was used in building for mortar, plaster and limewash and industry.

Descending a short stretch of road past houses, we found ourselves looking at the skeleton of Tintern Abbey so beautiful in its architecture. It was close to lunchtime, but we knew we had another climb so ploughed onwards and upwards, along a paved pilgrimage route, to St Mary’s church. The crumbling church is surrounded by fencing and warnings to keep away. It has been associated with Tintern Abbey since the 12thC, and the monks probably came here on retreat. Wine cooler, obelisk and pyramid graves are in the graveyard. Many commemorate the ironmasters who ran the wireworks along the Angidy, reflecting their wealth and power. A bright yellow glow came from a small gingko tree in the graveyard.

Church Grove Cottages had a lovely surprise, etched astrological clocks of various kinds were hanging on the walls, beautiful and fascinating. At the top of the walk, we stopped in the woods for an extremely late lunch. Someone joked that we had taken a wrong turn, and I was so hungry I said ’I have no sense of humour at this point’.

We passed a lake with glamping pods, named after woodland animals (fox, hare etc.), as we descended. Colourful trees reflected in the mirror of the water. We walked across farmland with sheep and cattle and the view opened again so we could see the Severn estuary.

We continued through Upper Wyndcliff once more to return to the cars at Lower Wyndcliff.

A superb day in beautiful woodland, rounded off with refreshment in the local inn in St Arvan.

 

Walk 7m 1700ft. Map OL14

 

Brecon

Brecon

We started at the Canal Basin, home to Brecon theatre and car park, although you must pay there is a café and good toilets. The theatre was built near the site of the town’s racecourse in 1996. Theatre in Brecon goes back to 1699, after the restoration of Charles II Brecon was one of the first places to have a theatre. The Canal Basin was once a busy industrial area with wharfs, a saw pit and a brewery but it is now a place to escape the busyness of life and enjoy peace and wildlife. There were several barges moored.

 

We left the Basin via a tunnel to follow the canal, the route was east, returning via the river Usk. The canal began as the Brecon and Abergavenny canal in 1800 and in 1812 joined the Monmouthshire canal providing access to Newport and the sea. The men who constructed the canal were called Navigators, now known as ‘Navvies’,

There are 27 historical plaques around the town and one house on the canal bank at Eliot St has added their own ‘NILOC ESMAJ 1703-1784 Time Traveller Lived here 2041-2046’! Dozens of ducks gathered around a young family who were feeding them.

At Watton Wharf, one of seven on Brecon canal, coal, lime and limestone would have been loaded on trams bound for Hay-on-Wye and beyond. Deliveries of wood, farm produce and beer would also have arrived here. As quantities carried increased, compared to horse and cart, some items became cheaper. In the early 19th century, the tramway from here to Hay-on Wye connected with the Kington tramway, Hereford; their combined length was 36 miles making it the longest rail network in the world at that time. Although steam locomotives had been invented this tramway was operated by horse drawn trams. The tramway has now disappeared but an arch across the canal indicates the site of the tramroad. The last commercial traffic was carried on the canal about 1915 and the final toll collected on the canal was at Llangynidr in1933.

On the Hay tramway there is a delightful wooden sculpture of a man with a trammer or draft horse. It has a list of fines for various misdemeanours, such as moving faster than walking pace, which range from 10 -20 shillings (50p-£1). The 20 shillings fine would be worth about £500 nowadays and any informant got half the fine!

Continuing along the canal we came to a row of limekilns. The day was now sunny and reflections of the greenery along the banks of the canal were clear

We walked through several tunnels and began to get glimpses of the river Usk. An information board had fascinating pictures of people, some with amazing headwear, working on the barges and tramway. The canals are now used for leisure and pleasure we came across a restored lock in good condition. Did you know that Victorians enjoyed pleasure boat trips on the canal and coracle fisherman used it.

We reached a point where the canal passed over the river and nearby, we saw lots of barges tied up along the canal bank and a man paddling a canoe at speed. Trees had long exposed roots which looked as if they were ‘walking’ towards the water. In an open area we could see the hills outlined around us.

Now we climbed onto a bridge and walked through some fields. At Llanfrynach we briefly visited the church with its lovely wooden beams supporting an arched ceiling and metal signs with the words of the Lord’s prayer and Creed. We stopped for lunch at a small playground where we spread ourselves around (a swing proved comfortable but a bit creaky with my weight!).

After lunch we crossed a field to reach the river and found a variety of fungi – King Alfred’s cakes, parasol mushrooms and shaggy inkcaps

Brecon appeared above us and in no time at all we were back in town. We came to the Usk bridge with its seven span arch bridges, which was built in 1563 and has been enhanced to carry modern traffic. Christ College, a successful private school is nearby. A Dominican Friary was established here c1250 and a collegiate church in Abergwlli, Carmarthenshire was moved, under a charter of Henry VIII, to this site in 1541.

The theatre café supplied us with drinks as we eschewed the town’s pubs of which there were 47 in 1834.

Walk 8.5m 200ft. Map OL14

Gower – A Visit to The Worm’s Head

Gower – A Visit to The Worm’s Head

A glorious day in September saw five of us travelling to Rhossili in a quest to walk over to Worms Head – the island which sits in Rhossili Bay and is accessible at low tide.

The National Trust (NT) car park was neat and green with lots of picnic tables. We walked to the end of the headland and after one of us said ‘I’d love to be certain I had seen a chough’, we were thrilled to see them, with red beaks and legs, doing acrobatics in the breeze and calling. Further along were horses grazing.

Soon we were descending the slope to the beach and clambering across rocks. With almost 2 hours to low tide, and a sign stating that the causeway is safe until 3p.m., there was plenty of time for the crossing. Although a little concerned that the rocks would be slippery with seaweed, there was no need as all the rocks are covered in barnacles and tiny mussels. Soon the sea was either side of us, but it is a wide causeway at low tide.

Arriving at the island we walked to the end of the main section. An easy climb to the ridge of the island, then a climb above the path to sit where a small ridge gives a view of Rhossili and Llangenith beaches to have a snack. As we sit, we exclaim together ‘oh look seals’ about 6 of them basking on the rocks below us. Cormorants fly, dive and stretch their wings. As we eat our lunch we watch as seals try to knock each other off rocks and make ‘friends’. A large bull is about twice the size of all the others and lifts his head and tail together posturing. More seals are spotted swimming in the sea and gradually clamber onto the rocks so that by the time we leave there are 9 of them.

We haven’t walked to the far end, the Outer Head via Devil’s Bridge, but it looks more uneven from here and the tide is already turning so we call it a day and start our return to the mainland. We head away from our earlier path to a flatter route and are careful not to trip. Those barnacles would rip your skin if you fell! Our path seems more uneven with some stretches of large rocks to scramble over.

Arriving back on the beach we walk south east along the ledge above the beach. Streaks of quartz sparkle in the chunky stones apparently untouched by man and washed by the sea on every tide. The sea sparkles in the sun reflecting a beautiful blue sky.

Now we head inland and make our way over to the next bay – Fall Bay – Rather than clamber over rocks again we walk around the bay and down a narrow path which finishes with a few steep drops over polished rocks. Just a few people are settled around the edge of the bay.

Everyone changed into swimming gear and ran down to the sea for a dip – I don’t swim well so paddled in the shallows. And Auri, the dog, who hates water stood at the edge and ran every time a wave approached. As I walk out of the sea to race the incoming waves, there are sensations of vertigo from the rushing patterns of the frothy water on the sand.

We climbed back up above the bay and across fields to the NT carpark. Several fields have been planted with flowers by the NT: the first has sunflowers and several different types of clover, a 4th plant with a pink flower is probably also a clover with an incredible honey scent which completely fills the air, the second has sunflowers, cornflowers and a few other meadow flowers and the third has wildflowers but no sunflowers – calendula, poppies, cornflower etc. A delight especially as there are still quite a few blooms so late in the season.

Back at the cars we make our way to the balcony of the pub and sip beers gazing over Rhossili bay. The wreck of the Helvetia (wrecked 1887) gradually disappears as the tide comes in. We could sit for hours but eventually we set off home, leaving one person to find a campsite where she was staying in her motorhome overnight

What a magical day, sunshine from dawn to dusk, good company, some amazing wildlife, flowers none of us knew and a visit to the Worm’s Head achieved. And to cap it all that night there was a full moon shining clearly after we got home. What a shame only five of us were able to make it!

Defynnog  and Swansea Valley

Defynnog  and Swansea Valley

Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

We have explored the Brecon Beacons this summer, a big thank you to everyone who has suggested or plotted walks. We have had a veritable feast of wild food finding hazelnuts, bilberries, blackberries, wild strawberries and raspberries, and in one field left fallow, fresh peas (amongst wheat, barley and other old crops) which were so delicious. Here are another two walks in this awesome place.

Defynnog

We set off from Defynnog, to make our way around Cwm Treweryn. A road led to Pantymaes where ponies grazed near the footpath, and we approached a quarry. Peregrines have been nesting here and successfully raising young. We saw some adult birds flying above the ridge and heard their screaming cries.

As we continued a flock of sheep walked in front of us until they ran to their mates in an open area. Shortly after we spotted an ewe which had got itself stuck in the roots of a tree. Its head was under a root, and it couldn’t back up as there was another root behind it. One of us lifted it out and it ran off bleating but not before giving its rescuer a kick.

To the east we could see the entrance to the valley we had walked last week. We spotted delicate blue harebells, explored the graveyard of a chapel with a hexagonal end and spotted a white chapel on the opposite hillside. We passed Glwydcaenewydd farm and walked through Crai before walking along a flower strewn lane. Needing lunch, we trudged uphill beside a wood to reach a height where we sat on a bank and ate while gazing at the landscape spread in front of us.

Walking along a road for a while we turned homeward on a good path to another chapel, and we peered through dusty windows to see a small austere space crammed with pews and tiny porches in two corners. One of the stones in the graveyard had a picture of a tractor on it which led to a discussion about what type of tractor it was.

Views of the surrounding hills diminished as we descended and entered a sunlight dappled path through trees, whose roots reached like long fingers down the bank.

Returning to Defynnog we were disappointed to find the highly recommended International Rarebit Café shut so had to be satisfied with a visit to the pub.

Four of us went to the church to visit the famous Defynnog yew and were mightily impressed. There are several yews all obviously ancient but one is so large we were all able to climb into its centre. Wow! It is thought that the Defynnog tree is between 2000 and 3000 years old. Although we thought we saw several trees it is probable that they were one tree. It may have been used for large gatherings (Cantrefi or hundreds). Between the 12th and 13th centuries Cantref Mawr was the Defynnog Hundred which would have made Defynnog an important centre in Wales rather than the small village it is today. [Walk 8m, 1200ft. Map OL12]

Swansea Valley

This was a glorious walk. Starting at Tafarn y Garreg on the A4067, we walked up a rugged valley broadly following a stream, and steadily climbing. Waterfalls, rocks, grassland, wind beaten trees, leaps across streams and a climb across moorland all featured in the morning.

And then we arrived at the source of the stream, Llyn y Fan Fawr, which is in fact the source of the River Tawe. We were surprised to see several groups of people around the lake, as we had seen hardly anyone all morning – there is a shorter route from Sennybridge. It was wonderful to see its clear waters and a few of us immediately bared our feet to paddle; so refreshing.

We lunched on its shores and were visited by a red kite swooping down low over us. There were discussions about what we all felt capable of as there was a steep 400ft climb straight after lunch (which we try to avoid). Most of us were up for it, once we realised that it would be flat on the top of the escarpment that towered over us. We were surprised to achieve the climb easily; it is a good path reinforced with large stones. Meanwhile a couple of us walked around the lake and back down the valley.

The views from the top were fantastic but humidity meant they faded in the distance, producing impressions of mountains. At the end of the escarpment, we seemed to descend forever, quite steeply at times. Until suddenly, we were back near the beginning of the walk with a gentle stroll along a wooded river back to the cars.

A stunning day, it had been ideal for walking, dry and cool with occasional sunshine, and we rounded it off with a drink in the local inn. [Walk 7m, 2050ft. Map OL12]

 

 

Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog – Craig Cerrig Gleisiad

Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

Craig Cerrig Gleisiad 

We parked near Forest Lodge cottages and set off along Sarn Helen, the 2000-year-old Roman road which runs from North Wales to Neath. The route would take us around Craig Cerrig Gleisiad Nature Reserve, Fan Frynych, climbing to the trig point and descending towards Twyn Dylluan-ddu before returning to Sarn Helen and the cars.

The first section along Sarn Helen is easy walking and we passed some interesting black and white sheep, cattle and lovely views. Taking a left turn we entered the nature reserve to walk along the valley and immediately spotted wind battered trees on the top of a hill. A noticeboard declared ‘It is a wild and craggy place and home to some arctic survivors. Glaciers carved out this special landscape. The steep rocky slopes, sharp escarpments and crags are home to rare arctic-alpine plants.’ The birdlife includes peregrines, kestrels, red grouse and rare ring ouzels. Archaeological remains found on the reserve show that the area has been inhabited for many thousands of years, including Iron Age huts.

As we progressed along Cwm du the state of the trees attracted our attention. On a visit 8 years ago, they were wind battered but now many seemed to have sparse leaves, one had a heavy crown of greenery. The path alongside the stream also seemed more overgrown but we had walked it on almost the same date last time.

The path gradually became more difficult with craggy, slippery rocks and narrow ledges. To continue past a waterfall, we needed to cross the stream. Large rocks were very slippery, so we went downstream, crossing to a bank of tall plants and made our way to a vertical wall with footholds cut into it. One of us is an experienced climber and she guided each of us until we were all safely at the top.

We were above the waterfall and followed the stream a little further before crossing it again to climb up to a grass covered area which proved much easier to navigate, following paths created by animals. We came across a herd of wild horses with foals which trotted off as we approached. The views were breathtaking, and we decided to stop for lunch looking back down the valley towards the Carmarthen Fans.

Arriving at a T-junction of paths we saw the first people we had seen all day and turned left towards Fan Frynych. At the trig point, we had awesome 360o views of the Brecon Beacons from the far west, north and around to Pen y Fan.

The path downhill led us back to Sarn Helen and the cars. The Mountain Centre provided a very welcome cup of tea and ice-cream. Looking at photos from 8 years ago, one person commented ‘we’re still wearing the same walking clothes’! Walk 7m, 1200ft. Map OL12

 

 

 

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