Category: Footsteps

Wyndcliff to Tintern

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Wyndcliff to Tintern

The Lower Wye valley, Blackcliff and Wyndcliff, form a Site of Special Scientific interest containing rare plants and an ancient semi-natural woodland (dating back to at least 1600). Unusually small leaved lime trees grow over yews and rare plants include Twayblade orchid, toothwort, Tintern spurge and herb paris. Rare species include greater and lesser horseshoe bats, common dormice and high brown and silver-washed fritillary butterflies. Deer are a pest, as they have no predators.

A notice stated ‘Rich in natural beauty and natural resources the Wye valley has attracted both artists and industrialists. Abundant charcoal, limestone, timber, iron and water meant the lower Wye valley once teemed with forges, quarries, kilns and mills. As the birthplace of British tourism, a tour of the Wye valley also drew painters and poets from Turner to Wordsworth.’

We made our way to Upper Wyndcliff, part of the Wye Valley Woodlands. This was designated an area of outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in 1971 and straddles the border between Wales and England for a stretch of fifty-eight miles. A notice declares ‘Every season offers something special: bluebells in spring, lush summer leaves, fantastic autumn colour, and the beauty of winter tree silhouettes. Discover stately oak and beech trees as well as ash and cherry. We maintain the historic viewpoints by cutting back the trees. These offer spectacular views across the Wye gorge and river, across to the Bristol Channel and the old Severn bridge. You can enjoy these views all year round but especially in winter, when the leaves have fallen.’

And did we strike gold on our autumn walk. The ground and the trees were carpeted in golden beech and sweet chestnut leaves; it was a dull day, but the woodland glowed.

We passed a sign advertising ‘The Eagles Nest Trail’ a difficult walk of 1 hour and 1.25miles long. Now the walk started in earnest taking us up 365 steps to the top of the gorge. There is something about climbing steps which appears easier than walking up a slope, especially in this case as the steps vary in size from shallow steps to those which are a struggle for people with shorter legs. One section of the climb has a slanting metal bridge with a deep drop below it, scary if you suffer with vertigo and difficult for the person who had to carry their dog! As we climbed, we saw fungi, moss covering surfaces and amazing intricate tree roots clinging to steep faces.

Trees stood majestic a around us, dominating beeches gradually giving way to sweet chestnuts and then suddenly there were yews – more than any of us had ever seen growing in one place. We began to descend and moved into open fields where we could look back across the gorge to the autumnal colour of the woodland on the other side. On a side path we found the Tintern Limekiln, with two arched openings, it was used from 1700s onwards, for making lime by heating limestone to 1,000 degrees C. The lime was used in building for mortar, plaster and limewash and industry.

Descending a short stretch of road past houses, we found ourselves looking at the skeleton of Tintern Abbey so beautiful in its architecture. It was close to lunchtime, but we knew we had another climb so ploughed onwards and upwards, along a paved pilgrimage route, to St Mary’s church. The crumbling church is surrounded by fencing and warnings to keep away. It has been associated with Tintern Abbey since the 12thC, and the monks probably came here on retreat. Wine cooler, obelisk and pyramid graves are in the graveyard. Many commemorate the ironmasters who ran the wireworks along the Angidy, reflecting their wealth and power. A bright yellow glow came from a small gingko tree in the graveyard.

Church Grove Cottages had a lovely surprise, etched astrological clocks of various kinds were hanging on the walls, beautiful and fascinating. At the top of the walk, we stopped in the woods for an extremely late lunch. Someone joked that we had taken a wrong turn, and I was so hungry I said ’I have no sense of humour at this point’.

We passed a lake with glamping pods, named after woodland animals (fox, hare etc.), as we descended. Colourful trees reflected in the mirror of the water. We walked across farmland with sheep and cattle and the view opened again so we could see the Severn estuary.

We continued through Upper Wyndcliff once more to return to the cars at Lower Wyndcliff.

A superb day in beautiful woodland, rounded off with refreshment in the local inn in St Arvan.

 

Walk 7m 1700ft. Map OL14

 

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Brecon

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We started at the Canal Basin, home to Brecon theatre and car park, although you must pay there is a café and good toilets. The theatre was built near the site of the town’s racecourse in 1996. Theatre in Brecon goes back to 1699, after the restoration of Charles II Brecon was one of the first places to have a theatre. The Canal Basin was once a busy industrial area with wharfs, a saw pit and a brewery but it is now a place to escape the busyness of life and enjoy peace and wildlife. There were several barges moored.

 

We left the Basin via a tunnel to follow the canal, the route was east, returning via the river Usk. The canal began as the Brecon and Abergavenny canal in 1800 and in 1812 joined the Monmouthshire canal providing access to Newport and the sea. The men who constructed the canal were called Navigators, now known as ‘Navvies’,

There are 27 historical plaques around the town and one house on the canal bank at Eliot St has added their own ‘NILOC ESMAJ 1703-1784 Time Traveller Lived here 2041-2046’! Dozens of ducks gathered around a young family who were feeding them.

At Watton Wharf, one of seven on Brecon canal, coal, lime and limestone would have been loaded on trams bound for Hay-on-Wye and beyond. Deliveries of wood, farm produce and beer would also have arrived here. As quantities carried increased, compared to horse and cart, some items became cheaper. In the early 19th century, the tramway from here to Hay-on Wye connected with the Kington tramway, Hereford; their combined length was 36 miles making it the longest rail network in the world at that time. Although steam locomotives had been invented this tramway was operated by horse drawn trams. The tramway has now disappeared but an arch across the canal indicates the site of the tramroad. The last commercial traffic was carried on the canal about 1915 and the final toll collected on the canal was at Llangynidr in1933.

On the Hay tramway there is a delightful wooden sculpture of a man with a trammer or draft horse. It has a list of fines for various misdemeanours, such as moving faster than walking pace, which range from 10 -20 shillings (50p-£1). The 20 shillings fine would be worth about £500 nowadays and any informant got half the fine!

Continuing along the canal we came to a row of limekilns. The day was now sunny and reflections of the greenery along the banks of the canal were clear

We walked through several tunnels and began to get glimpses of the river Usk. An information board had fascinating pictures of people, some with amazing headwear, working on the barges and tramway. The canals are now used for leisure and pleasure we came across a restored lock in good condition. Did you know that Victorians enjoyed pleasure boat trips on the canal and coracle fisherman used it.

We reached a point where the canal passed over the river and nearby, we saw lots of barges tied up along the canal bank and a man paddling a canoe at speed. Trees had long exposed roots which looked as if they were ‘walking’ towards the water. In an open area we could see the hills outlined around us.

Now we climbed onto a bridge and walked through some fields. At Llanfrynach we briefly visited the church with its lovely wooden beams supporting an arched ceiling and metal signs with the words of the Lord’s prayer and Creed. We stopped for lunch at a small playground where we spread ourselves around (a swing proved comfortable but a bit creaky with my weight!).

After lunch we crossed a field to reach the river and found a variety of fungi – King Alfred’s cakes, parasol mushrooms and shaggy inkcaps

Brecon appeared above us and in no time at all we were back in town. We came to the Usk bridge with its seven span arch bridges, which was built in 1563 and has been enhanced to carry modern traffic. Christ College, a successful private school is nearby. A Dominican Friary was established here c1250 and a collegiate church in Abergwlli, Carmarthenshire was moved, under a charter of Henry VIII, to this site in 1541.

The theatre café supplied us with drinks as we eschewed the town’s pubs of which there were 47 in 1834.

Walk 8.5m 200ft. Map OL14

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Gower – A Visit to The Worm’s Head

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A glorious day in September saw five of us travelling to Rhossili in a quest to walk over to Worms Head – the island which sits in Rhossili Bay and is accessible at low tide.

The National Trust (NT) car park was neat and green with lots of picnic tables. We walked to the end of the headland and after one of us said ‘I’d love to be certain I had seen a chough’, we were thrilled to see them, with red beaks and legs, doing acrobatics in the breeze and calling. Further along were horses grazing.

Soon we were descending the slope to the beach and clambering across rocks. With almost 2 hours to low tide, and a sign stating that the causeway is safe until 3p.m., there was plenty of time for the crossing. Although a little concerned that the rocks would be slippery with seaweed, there was no need as all the rocks are covered in barnacles and tiny mussels. Soon the sea was either side of us, but it is a wide causeway at low tide.

Arriving at the island we walked to the end of the main section. An easy climb to the ridge of the island, then a climb above the path to sit where a small ridge gives a view of Rhossili and Llangenith beaches to have a snack. As we sit, we exclaim together ‘oh look seals’ about 6 of them basking on the rocks below us. Cormorants fly, dive and stretch their wings. As we eat our lunch we watch as seals try to knock each other off rocks and make ‘friends’. A large bull is about twice the size of all the others and lifts his head and tail together posturing. More seals are spotted swimming in the sea and gradually clamber onto the rocks so that by the time we leave there are 9 of them.

We haven’t walked to the far end, the Outer Head via Devil’s Bridge, but it looks more uneven from here and the tide is already turning so we call it a day and start our return to the mainland. We head away from our earlier path to a flatter route and are careful not to trip. Those barnacles would rip your skin if you fell! Our path seems more uneven with some stretches of large rocks to scramble over.

Arriving back on the beach we walk south east along the ledge above the beach. Streaks of quartz sparkle in the chunky stones apparently untouched by man and washed by the sea on every tide. The sea sparkles in the sun reflecting a beautiful blue sky.

Now we head inland and make our way over to the next bay – Fall Bay – Rather than clamber over rocks again we walk around the bay and down a narrow path which finishes with a few steep drops over polished rocks. Just a few people are settled around the edge of the bay.

Everyone changed into swimming gear and ran down to the sea for a dip – I don’t swim well so paddled in the shallows. And Auri, the dog, who hates water stood at the edge and ran every time a wave approached. As I walk out of the sea to race the incoming waves, there are sensations of vertigo from the rushing patterns of the frothy water on the sand.

We climbed back up above the bay and across fields to the NT carpark. Several fields have been planted with flowers by the NT: the first has sunflowers and several different types of clover, a 4th plant with a pink flower is probably also a clover with an incredible honey scent which completely fills the air, the second has sunflowers, cornflowers and a few other meadow flowers and the third has wildflowers but no sunflowers – calendula, poppies, cornflower etc. A delight especially as there are still quite a few blooms so late in the season.

Back at the cars we make our way to the balcony of the pub and sip beers gazing over Rhossili bay. The wreck of the Helvetia (wrecked 1887) gradually disappears as the tide comes in. We could sit for hours but eventually we set off home, leaving one person to find a campsite where she was staying in her motorhome overnight

What a magical day, sunshine from dawn to dusk, good company, some amazing wildlife, flowers none of us knew and a visit to the Worm’s Head achieved. And to cap it all that night there was a full moon shining clearly after we got home. What a shame only five of us were able to make it!

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Defynnog  and Swansea Valley

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Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

We have explored the Brecon Beacons this summer, a big thank you to everyone who has suggested or plotted walks. We have had a veritable feast of wild food finding hazelnuts, bilberries, blackberries, wild strawberries and raspberries, and in one field left fallow, fresh peas (amongst wheat, barley and other old crops) which were so delicious. Here are another two walks in this awesome place.

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Defynnog

We set off from Defynnog, to make our way around Cwm Treweryn. A road led to Pantymaes where ponies grazed near the footpath, and we approached a quarry. Peregrines have been nesting here and successfully raising young. We saw some adult birds flying above the ridge and heard their screaming cries.

As we continued a flock of sheep walked in front of us until they ran to their mates in an open area. Shortly after we spotted an ewe which had got itself stuck in the roots of a tree. Its head was under a root, and it couldn’t back up as there was another root behind it. One of us lifted it out and it ran off bleating but not before giving its rescuer a kick.

To the east we could see the entrance to the valley we had walked last week. We spotted delicate blue harebells, explored the graveyard of a chapel with a hexagonal end and spotted a white chapel on the opposite hillside. We passed Glwydcaenewydd farm and walked through Crai before walking along a flower strewn lane. Needing lunch, we trudged uphill beside a wood to reach a height where we sat on a bank and ate while gazing at the landscape spread in front of us.

Walking along a road for a while we turned homeward on a good path to another chapel, and we peered through dusty windows to see a small austere space crammed with pews and tiny porches in two corners. One of the stones in the graveyard had a picture of a tractor on it which led to a discussion about what type of tractor it was.

Views of the surrounding hills diminished as we descended and entered a sunlight dappled path through trees, whose roots reached like long fingers down the bank.

Returning to Defynnog we were disappointed to find the highly recommended International Rarebit Café shut so had to be satisfied with a visit to the pub.

Four of us went to the church to visit the famous Defynnog yew and were mightily impressed. There are several yews all obviously ancient but one is so large we were all able to climb into its centre. Wow! It is thought that the Defynnog tree is between 2000 and 3000 years old. Although we thought we saw several trees it is probable that they were one tree. It may have been used for large gatherings (Cantrefi or hundreds). Between the 12th and 13th centuries Cantref Mawr was the Defynnog Hundred which would have made Defynnog an important centre in Wales rather than the small village it is today. [Walk 8m, 1200ft. Map OL12]

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Swansea Valley

This was a glorious walk. Starting at Tafarn y Garreg on the A4067, we walked up a rugged valley broadly following a stream, and steadily climbing. Waterfalls, rocks, grassland, wind beaten trees, leaps across streams and a climb across moorland all featured in the morning.

And then we arrived at the source of the stream, Llyn y Fan Fawr, which is in fact the source of the River Tawe. We were surprised to see several groups of people around the lake, as we had seen hardly anyone all morning – there is a shorter route from Sennybridge. It was wonderful to see its clear waters and a few of us immediately bared our feet to paddle; so refreshing.

We lunched on its shores and were visited by a red kite swooping down low over us. There were discussions about what we all felt capable of as there was a steep 400ft climb straight after lunch (which we try to avoid). Most of us were up for it, once we realised that it would be flat on the top of the escarpment that towered over us. We were surprised to achieve the climb easily; it is a good path reinforced with large stones. Meanwhile a couple of us walked around the lake and back down the valley.

The views from the top were fantastic but humidity meant they faded in the distance, producing impressions of mountains. At the end of the escarpment, we seemed to descend forever, quite steeply at times. Until suddenly, we were back near the beginning of the walk with a gentle stroll along a wooded river back to the cars.

A stunning day, it had been ideal for walking, dry and cool with occasional sunshine, and we rounded it off with a drink in the local inn. [Walk 7m, 2050ft. Map OL12]

 

 

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Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

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Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

Craig Cerrig Gleisiad 

We parked near Forest Lodge cottages and set off along Sarn Helen, the 2000-year-old Roman road which runs from North Wales to Neath. The route would take us around Craig Cerrig Gleisiad Nature Reserve, Fan Frynych, climbing to the trig point and descending towards Twyn Dylluan-ddu before returning to Sarn Helen and the cars.

The first section along Sarn Helen is easy walking and we passed some interesting black and white sheep, cattle and lovely views. Taking a left turn we entered the nature reserve to walk along the valley and immediately spotted wind battered trees on the top of a hill. A noticeboard declared ‘It is a wild and craggy place and home to some arctic survivors. Glaciers carved out this special landscape. The steep rocky slopes, sharp escarpments and crags are home to rare arctic-alpine plants.’ The birdlife includes peregrines, kestrels, red grouse and rare ring ouzels. Archaeological remains found on the reserve show that the area has been inhabited for many thousands of years, including Iron Age huts.

As we progressed along Cwm du the state of the trees attracted our attention. On a visit 8 years ago, they were wind battered but now many seemed to have sparse leaves, one had a heavy crown of greenery. The path alongside the stream also seemed more overgrown but we had walked it on almost the same date last time.

The path gradually became more difficult with craggy, slippery rocks and narrow ledges. To continue past a waterfall, we needed to cross the stream. Large rocks were very slippery, so we went downstream, crossing to a bank of tall plants and made our way to a vertical wall with footholds cut into it. One of us is an experienced climber and she guided each of us until we were all safely at the top.

We were above the waterfall and followed the stream a little further before crossing it again to climb up to a grass covered area which proved much easier to navigate, following paths created by animals. We came across a herd of wild horses with foals which trotted off as we approached. The views were breathtaking, and we decided to stop for lunch looking back down the valley towards the Carmarthen Fans.

Arriving at a T-junction of paths we saw the first people we had seen all day and turned left towards Fan Frynych. At the trig point, we had awesome 360o views of the Brecon Beacons from the far west, north and around to Pen y Fan.

The path downhill led us back to Sarn Helen and the cars. The Mountain Centre provided a very welcome cup of tea and ice-cream. Looking at photos from 8 years ago, one person commented ‘we’re still wearing the same walking clothes’! Walk 7m, 1200ft. Map OL12

 

 

 

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Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

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Brecon Beacons / Bannau Brycheiniog

Some were a little concerned about the length of this walk as it was billed as 8 miles. A reminder that we had been here before was reassuring.

Seed heads of coltsfoot decorated the side of the path. On the edge of a wood, we spotted a tiny blue-purple flower, Butterwort, it is carnivorous and grows in bogs, moors, damp heath and wet rocks. It was believed that it protected cattle from elves’ arrows and newborn babies from thieving fairies. The leaves were used to curdle/thicken milk.

Ears pricked as we heard a cuckoo – a rare sound these days but, given our ages, one we are all familiar with. ‘Cuckoo’ seemed to follow us as we walked the perimeter of the woodland and out into the open.

A steep descent invited the fittest of us to visit a cave. Others walked around a gully to meet ‘the intrepid cavers’ as they climbed back up to join us. Now we crossed moorland, it was uphill and difficult as we tried to follow tracks made by animals, hopefully avoiding the largest holes, clumps and water. At one point we saw a ‘frog in a bog’.

Lunch was at the highest point of the moor. What a delight, as well as decent views, there was the continuous song of skylarks, two flying close to the ground near us. Dark clouds gathered and there was even a clap of thunder but apart from a few raindrops, they disappeared, and rain descended on the hills around us.

We entered woodland and took a track through Penmoelallt forest where Ley’s whitebeam grows. There are only 10 of these trees growing wild in the world and they are all in this area. Towards the end, we found a clearing with a large natural table, and various sculptures – badgers, a woman and a hare with the moon.

A slightly longer walk than usual but an enjoyable day of wide vistas and a sense of accomplishment. Walk 9.2miles, 1600ft. Map OL12

Clodock – We parked outside the church in Clodock, a village with few houses in Herefordshire. A large plastic shark on a wall reminded us we were here 10 years ago. We headed east, a steep climb to start, and then rolling countryside. Turning north, Skirrid (where we had walked a week earlier) came into view in the distance.

We reached the highest point of the walk where there was a trig point, hidden as it was enclosed by a hedge. We passed Oldcourt farm, a Grade II listed, 14th century stone house and barn with mullioned windows and a huge chimney. Agents’ details show it was on the market for close to £1million. A stand-alone wall was fascinating with triangular holes through it and pennywort growing between stones. We saw several longhouses in the area.

Now we were headed towards Longtown but stopped for lunch next to a dry brook as the views were extensive. A downhill stretch took us to Escley Brook whose refreshing water gave the dogs a chance for a deep drink.

Longtown castle, 12th and 13th century, has a keep which can be seen from a distance even though it is crumbling. The castle was founded by Walter De Lacy, one of the Marcher lords, to defend England’s border with Wales and the adjacent town of Ewias Lacy (now Longtown). By 1403 the castle had become dilapidated, but Henry IV ordered it to be refortified to defend against Owain Glyn Dwr.

Near the castle is the Old School House which has several stone plaques displayed. The school was originally financed through subscriptions of £66 2s raised from 34 people. Broome’s garden, next to the school is owned by English Heritage and maintained by volunteers. Mr Broome was a volunteer who taught boys vegetable gardening whilst girls were learning domestic skills.

We headed to Longtown and saw ‘The New Inn Spiritous Liquors Sold Here’ now a private house. A friendly farmer helped us avoid a difficult stile by inviting us to walk through his farm – chainsaw in hand he said, ‘Come with me’; we gladly followed!

Back at Clodock, we were impressed by the church, dedicated to a British king Clydawc and founded in 6th century, enlarged during 12th century and restored 1919.

A day of historic buildings, rolling hills, meadows, kites and buzzards and probably the worst stiles we have had to negotiate in a very long time. We decided that we had chosen the best time of year for this walk – not much mud or too overgrown. The pub in Clodock has the smallest bar I have ever seen with a delightful garden. Walk 7.3miles, 1000ft. Map OL13.

 

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Monmouth

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Monmouth’s history goes back at least 2000 years to the presence of a Roman garrison. Its position at the meeting place of 3 rivers – the Trothy, Monnow and Wye, and one of the few places where the Wye could be safely crossed, allowed it to grow from a market town to the seat of legislature. Parts of the medieval town survive at Monnow bridge, the priory buildings and the castle where Henry V was born. In Agincourt Square his statue overlooks that of another famous citizen, Charles Rolls, an early pioneer of aviation and co-founder of Rolls Royce.

We were lucky to park as, we chose the day of the Monmouth Regatta for our walk. The beginning of the walk along the river was very busy with many people participating in the regatta (some from as far away as Staines) and spectators.

A few of us went into the Church of St Peter, its history stretches back to early Welsh Christianity with the first mention of a church, Llan Tydwg, in AD 750. It was on the border of a small Welsh kingdom of Archenfield, a stronghold of the early Celtic Church. The current church was probably rebuilt in the 11th Century after it was destroyed by the Welsh prince Gruffydd ap Llywelyn who, in 1054, led a raid up the Wye to Hereford, devastating riverside settlements. Historically the church has passed back and forth between the dioceses of Llandaff and Hereford. Now, although the church is in Monmouth (Wales), it is part of the diocese of Hereford (England) as the parishioners voted for this in 1921.

The church was full of interesting information and articles. One of my favourite nuggets was ‘customs included the payment of rent in honey; the Welsh believed that bees came from Paradise and so candles for Holy Communion were always made from beeswax.’ The old font was discovered in the rubble of chapel farm, it is possible that after leaving the church it was used to press apples or as an animal trough. There is a leper’s bench and door. A beautiful, variegated tree stands in the church yard.

It is thought that the church has been flooded 64 times in the last 95 years. In the 2020 flood (1.6metres) the pews damaged the reredos and in 2023 the pulpit was lost. The floor is regularly being replaced.

Leaving the river, we went through a tunnel under the A40 where the walls were decorated with painted mosaics created by local groups and schools; they depict the heritage of Monmouth and the Wye valley AONB. We travelled along tracks on the edge of the town until we passed the ‘the Manor on the Monnow’. We soon came to a feat of engineering, where the Monnow was channelled creating a hydroelectric scheme with a fish pass. Monmouth’s lights were water powered in 1899! In the 17th century a forge was powered at this site. At one point the river went over a lip creating an infinity pool effect.

Continuing we enjoyed fields of buttercups, welcome shade from trees along the river, and extensive views of the countryside. Climbing a steep road, we passed a small holding with a peacock and other birds, and someone spotted a few deer. Crossing a couple of fields, we stopped for lunch in a meadow covered in a red and yellow carpet of flowers and grasses. As we sat, we were excited to spot a herd of about twenty deer in the distance.

Walking again along a road, we saw the roe deer race across a field next to us before they disappeared. We passed Westwood Archery Centre where we were warned ‘ No trespassing – Violators will be shot; Survivors will be shot again’. We continued to have excellent views of the Black mountains and found some wonderful examples of trees, foxgloves and other wildflowers beside the paths. Emerging onto a road we were admiring a barn which had been weather-proofed with a new roof when the farmer told us it was for sale, if we were interested.

Near the end of the walk, we crossed the A40 and walked along the river Wye catching a few races of the regatta, as we walked, before returning to the cars. One race consisted of two mixed teams of eight rowers, the first of these any of us had seen. Someone in our group had to comment that ‘everyone seemed to be wearing old fashioned swimming costumes’.

An interesting and sunny walk was topped off with refreshments at a local garden centre

Walk 8.3m, 1100ft. Map OL14

 

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Blackmill & Treorchy 

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Blackmill – This walk took us to some beautiful countryside, although wet underfoot there were stones in most places, so it was not too muddy! We began in Blackmill and walked up the Ogwr Fawr towards the Ogmore forest and back via Cwm Dimbach. Blackmill is at the confluence of two Ogwr rivers, three railway lines and two main roads – the gateway to the Ogmore valleys.

We walked in sunshine with big fluffy clouds in the sky. The climb was gradual, and we looked over the valley observing that buildings were appearing much higher up the hills. The views were extensive and the hills lush and green. At our high point of the day, we could see the channel in the far distance.

We stopped for lunch at the side of a stream, where water tumbled down the hillside. It was the first time this year we could feel the heat of the sun as we sat.

The ground was saturated, but we walked down a stream which was stony making it comfortable walking downhill. A river separated us from a woodland of bare trees with a carpet of moss across the whole space. Apart from occasional birdsong and the noise of flowing water the place was peaceful with a deep silence. In one area rocks at the side were covered in ferns and mosses, dripping with water, just as you would imagine a fairy glen.

We came to an isolated house where a ford crossed the river. Two of us were a bit behind everyone else and pretended that we thought we had to cross the ford, and everyone egged us on, only for us to turn at the last moment and use the pedestrian bridge. Moments later a car drove across the ford creating a small bow wave.

The end of the walk was along the Great Glamorgan Way. We finished at a café in Blackmill which supplied us with piping hot cups of tea – a wonderful day. [Walk 7.25m, 1100ft. Map OS166]

 

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Treorchy – As the weather has improved, we have enjoyed some wonderful walks in the sunshine. This was one of them. Thirteen of us and three dogs parked on a steep street in Cwmparc. It was not long before we had left the houses behind and were climbing a forest track. The valley of houses sat in a bowl, formed by the hills.

The day warmed, something we had not experienced in a while. Leaves were starting to uncurl on shrubs, and we spotted the yellow flowers of coltsfoot which emerge before the leaves.

As we got higher an expanse of wind turbines appeared, as did the shell of a burnt-out car. Towards the top of the walk, we arrived at a crossroads and chose it as a lunch stop. Soon everyone started spreading out, a few in a depression, some on a bank with their backs to the sun, some facing the sun on the opposite bank and a couple even went into the woods to lean on a tree. It was all reminiscent of lockdown with none of us closer than 6 ft to one another. Some traffic passed, a few cyclists (one without a helmet, crazy!), several walkers and inevitably, disturbing the peace, a few offroad motorbikes.

The views on the walk were excellent; there were continuous rolling hills, but we also caught glimpses of Pen y Fan and Sugar Loaf. Surprisingly, from this distance (we were at the top of the Valleys) we could see the Bristol Channel and England. In the sky we had spotted a buzzard and kite and, on the ground, a tiny eggshell.

We came off the stony track onto a boggy footpath, then a short distance along a road. All too soon we reached ‘the descent’. We had been warned that walking poles were advisable. The hill rose steeply to our right where a rickety old fence stopped us heading inland and to our left was a rocky gorge. A couple of ewes with their lambs were scrambling on the craggy hillside. The footpath was a mix of loose stones and grass and we descended at varying rates depending on our fitness and head for heights. A small herd of cattle, with young calves, grazed in the valley which opened out below us.

The end of the walk was open moorland and after crossing this we followed a fast-flowing stream. Painted stones bordered the path as we neared housing, and a sign told us it was ‘Cwmparc Pathway of Hope created in 2020’ another reminder of lockdown.

We chatted to a few of the locals as we passed them outside their houses which looked out onto the hill. A great day in the hills with wall-to-wall sunshine dotted with a few wispy clouds and rounded off with drinks outside a pub in Porth. [Walk 7.5m, 1500ft. Map OS166]

 

 

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Penhow

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Penhow – As you read this the weather will be sunny and warmer (I hope), but we undertook this walk towards the end of all that winter rain. We parked on the A48 near Penhow, taking a footpath to Penhow castle. Our route took in Penhow Castle farm, passing Magor services on M4, Pencoed castle and back to Penhow via Llandevaud.

The manor of Penhow was held by Caradog ap Gruffydd, Prince of Gwent before the Norman invasion. The estate was seized, and a Norman knight built Penhow castle in the 12th century. By the mid twentieth century the castle was deteriorating and was restored by film director, Stephen Weeks. It is a Grade II listed building, private home and some claim the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Wales. Walking through the farmyard we admired the agricultural buildings and castle and visited the small church complete with bell tower and bellringers’ ropes.

We walked along the road as the fields were waterlogged and a stream beside the road, St Brides brook, was overflowing. Indeed, we paddled along the road and kept to its centre to avoid puddles. Some, who will remain nameless, really enjoyed splashing through the water and generally playing as they walked! It was another matter whenever a car came along as we had to find refuge to avoid being drenched.

We arrived at St Brides Netherwent (circa 1290), an isolated church with snowdrops in the churchyard and a claim for the oldest inscribed bell in Wales. The inscription is ‘Ave Maria Gracia Plena, one like a pot and the other like a pan’ with other embellishments. The bell is still rung to call people to worship 700 years after it was made. There was a very smart steel doored toilet in the corner of the churchyard which was available for use.

Continuing along the flooded road, we arrived at the back of Magor services which was a bit smelly as their bins were lined up near our track. Now we were going slightly uphill and soon moved onto a footpath heading towards Pencoed castle.

There are extensive renovations taking place at the Grade II listed, Pencoed castle and it looked markedly different from the last time we passed it. We hunkered down near one of its boundary walls to eat our lunch and enjoy the castle and its surroundings.

According to Wales Online, the castle was sold for £1.1m in 2020 and there are extensive plans for its development. It is estimated that the castle was built between 1500 and 1560 and for generations belonged to the Morgan family from Tredegar, who built a large mansion on the medieval site. More recently a coal owner and politician, D. A. Thomas, restored the mansion for his adored daughter and her husband. The coal owner died before the work was complete and soon after his daughter divorced. In 2016, a farmer turned property developer, Peter Morgan, was sentenced to life imprisonment for the murder of his girlfriend, Georgina Symonds, a dancer and personal escort at the castle. An unfortunate building?

A dovecote in the grounds is fascinating, probably medieval and Grade II listed, all four stone walls are still standing and there is only a small opening at the top for birds to enter and leave. The doorway has a wooden lintel and stone arch above it and it has hundreds of roosting perches inside.

We continued to Llandevaud, crossed the common and then walked across fields back to Pencoed farm. We rounded off the walk with tea at St Mellons Garden centre. Walk 6.7m 500ft Map OL14

 

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Llwyn Onn Reservoir and Taibach

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Llwyn Onn Reservoir

Driving to the start of this walk, at the beginning of March, the weather was changeable, rain, sleet and hail and we could see snow on the tops of some hills. On arrival at the Garwnant Visitor centre at Llwyn Onn Reservoir, we were welcomed by a light snow shower, the first snow some of us had seen this year.

Our route was north from Llwyn Onn to Cantref reservoir, along the Taff trail and then back along a forest track. It was wet and muddy underfoot, but firm as the footpath was stoney. Quite heavy cold rain had replaced the snow. Where the Taff trail bordered farmland, a new fence had been erected with barbed wire on the top leaving a narrow path between it and the undergrowth to our left which some people found quite difficult to negotiate, especially when low tree branches extended across the path.

Looking across the valley the whole of the hillside was covered in snow and we could see a few tiny figures crossing it. There was also snow lying on the ground around us. The reservoirs were full to overflowing and as we reached Cantref reservoir we stood watching the overflow race along a release stream. This reservoir is one of three forming the Taff Fawr System, it is about 1000ft above sea level and was built in 1892.

 

Now we returned via the forest track and were surprised to find lots of cabins which were occupied. There were no leaves on the surrounding trees, so we had good views of the snow-clad hills. Passing the cabins, we found a picnic table covered in ice where some of us ate our lunch while others perched on stones or on the ground.

We spotted frog spawn in a puddle and feared that most of it was dead as it had turned white.

A couple of people took a shortcut to the visitor centre while we continued to Llwyn Onn reservoir to come back along its shoreline. Towards the end of the day the sun came out and the snow sparkled, a magical sight after the gloom of our wet Welsh winter. At the visitor centre, which has good facilities, including a sculpture trail, and an incongruous large plastic dog, we rejoined our friends for a welcome cup of tea.

Walk 5.8m. Map OL12

 

Taibach

It was another cold morning with rain forecast as we prepared to walk Cwm Dyffryn, near Taibach. The beginning of the walk was level and a river gurgled beside us, surprisingly a large patch of vinca was in full flower.

We crossed a stream, entering more open countryside, and saw a large solar farm on the opposite hill. We were looking out across Swansea Bay and could see the distinctive buildings of the city and the Gower peninsula in the distance.

At lunchtime, we found a hollow, sitting on rocks strewn about the area, and sheltered from the cold wind. Before we finished eating the sun came out.

In a wet patch of footpath, were our first tadpoles of the year; we trod carefully to avoid killing them. Many trees had been felled since we were last here and we gained our first view of Port Talbot steel works and of ‘the blue pool’.

The blue pool is a reservoir which is affected by algae; hence the water is turquoise in summer. It was for sale at £30K and we all joked about buying it. Within the week it had been bought for the princely sum of £15K.

Progress being good, we added an easy trip around the Blue Pool, but it did involve jumping or paddling across a couple of streams. There were lots of tree limbs submerged in the pool and you could easily see how stories of monsters could arise.

We continued our descent through woodland, spotting some coltsfoot coming into flower. A row of trees stood tall even though their roots seemed to be completely exposed on one side, because of erosion.

We reached a grassy path which ran parallel to the M4 and the steel works. From this vantage the steel works looked huge. A farm lay in the narrow strip between us and the motorway, where ewes with tiny lambs rested. A deer was spotted on the hillside, and after some debating about whether it was a rock or tree, everyone saw its head move and four more appeared. They dashed over the crest of the hill on spying us. Escapees from Margam park, we wondered? Soon after, a lone sheep on the hillside was identified as a goat (its beard gave it away) and two others one black and the other brown were spotted.

Before long we were doing the final stretch back to the cars. We retired to Pyle garden centre for refreshment, very happy with our day’s walking.

Walk 7.2m, 1000ft. Map OS 165

 

 

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