Category: Community Groups

Footsteps

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Wenvoe

The winter rain has turned most footpaths into quagmires and more of us than usual are walking them but there are places we can visit on firm ground. You are advised to wear good footwear – walking boots, wellies or sturdy shoes on all but the driest days as the lanes around our village can be muddy, wet (either streams or large puddles) and sometimes icy.

Once again, the golf course has been closed to players and we have been allowed to explore the extensive grounds, if we keep off the greens, fairways and bunkers and keep any dogs on a lead.

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The first and easiest route, which is used by lots of people, is to walk along the main road past the garden centre and take the first turning – Burdons Hill. It is uphill with snowdrops under a hedge and a 3D aeroplane on the side of a garage. You will come to a junction turning right goes north past Burdons farm and it is worth going past the stone stile, for a quick visit to the Elizabethan orchard on the left, which offers views across farmland, but then retrace your steps to the junction.

At the junction you follow the good track alongside the golf course (left turn from the top of Burdons Hill) that leads down to the golf course road. When you arrive at this road, turn left to come back to the Port Rd and another left leads to Wenvoe.

For a slightly longer walk on grass, another option, is to go through the kissing gate straight ahead and enter the golf course, to walk around its boundary. Stay along the top edge of the golf course and you will find a footpath sign. Currently, you can avoid this and stay within the golf course. Follow the boundary of the golf course until you see an opening onto the road, turn left onto the road and you will come back to the Port Rd.

 

This short walk has lots to offer – excellent views across the golf course, snowdrops and lots of birds – people have seen a tree creeper, nuthatch, wren and green woodpecker as well as the usual cheery robins, tits, blackbirds, crows, buzzards and sparrows chattering in the hedges. If you venture across the golf course road as far as the lake on the golf course you might be lucky enough to spot frog spawn. And on the way back to the main road you can see the sole lamb, that appeared in January, in amongst the sheep.

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My second suggestion is to do a linear walk to Michaelston-le-Pit. Cross the main road using the pedestrian bridge and walk along Station Rd. A footpath on the left has purple crocuses growing along it – there were cottages here at one time. Continuing, you pass Station Terrace where the railway station used to be and walk over the old railway bridge. This is an area which often has mud and standing water (several inches deep). Carry on, there are fields either side of the road and as it winds it becomes narrower, I walk quickly here in case any cars come by – there is nowhere to stand aside. There are lots of lambs in one of the fields.

When you reach the T-junction turn right to follow the road to Wrinstone Farm. At the farm turn left up a stony track, near the top you will have views of the Channel in winter. Follow the footpath signs to the right near the top of the hill and soon head downhill to join a tarmacked road. Turning right leads to Michaelston-le-Pit. You will pass Cwrt Yr Ala (a large house which once belonged to the Raleigh Family) and then a footpath on the right (noticeable because there is a sign telling you all the things you must not do) at Salmon Leaps which will bring you back to Wrinstone farm, It is lovely, but the path can be slippery and muddy.

Carry on along the road to enjoy the water cascading down the weirs and spot ducks and sometimes a heron. The raised village green is covered in purple crocuses now. Can you find the stone protruding from its wall which is a foothold for mounting a horse? Opposite, behind the telephone kiosk, is a covered well which at one time was the village’s only source of drinking water.

A few minutes later you will arrive at the grade I listed, church lychgate, a World War 1 memorial to local soldiers. Enter St Michael churchyard, to explore and maybe have a rest on one of the benches supplied, the Yew tree is impressive.

 

Leaving the churchyard retrace your steps to return to Wenvoe (maybe via the footpath at Salmons Leap if the weather is good).

Walk 2-7 miles depending on which route is taken. Map 151

 

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Ogmore

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We walked in the Ogmore area several times last year, using the Vale Trails leaflet no.1 ‘Ogmore by Sea Walk’ as a basis for our routes and starting from St Brides Major. From here we walked past St Bridget’s Church and were soon on footpaths leading onto Ogmore Down. This part of the walk is across open countryside with good wide grass pathways.

We have seen swallows sitting along a fence and gracefully swooping for insects in the air. At Pant Mari Flanders there is a hollow cut into limestone with a stone structure covering an ancient well. If you take the more northerly route you pass the golf course where the views are extensive.

After crossing the Down, you come to the river Ewenny and walking south soon arrive at its confluence with the River Ogmore, the site of Ogmore Castle. From here it is a lovely walk along the river and estuary towards the sea. The dunes of Merthyr Mawr Warren are on the other side of the river and horse riders gallop along the other bank. Stepping-stones offer a safe river crossing unless the water is extremely high.

Ogmore Castle is one of 3 fortresses built, at the time of the Norman invasion, to guard Glamorgan against attacks from the Welsh-held west. Beginning as a castle of earth and wood in the early 12th century, it was quickly fortified in stone before being further strengthened with a curtain wall in the early 13th century. Unusually the original defensive banks and ditches are still visible, the deep ditch in the inner ward was designed to fill with sea water at high tide.

The castle was given to one of the 12 knights of Glamorgan, William de Londres, who left when the Welsh attacked in 1116. Allegedly, the castle was saved by his butler, Arnold, and for this he was knighted Sir Arnold Butler and given the castle and manor at Dunraven as a reward. Ogmore Castle continued to serve as a residence until the 16thC and hosted the Court House until 1803.The present-day castle remains consist of the keep and some outer walls.

A ghost Y Ladi Wen (“the White Lady”) is said to guard the castle’s hidden treasure. In the story, a spirit was long said to wander the wider area until a man finally had the courage to approach her. When someone eventually did so, the spirit led him to treasure (a cauldron filled with gold) hidden under a heavy stone, he could take half for himself. Later, he returned to take the rest; the angry spirit attacked him as he returned home. The man became gravely ill but did not die until he confessed his greed.

The river always has lots of birds swimming along and feeding – seagulls, Canada geese and ducks to name a few. Soon we reach the estuary where the horizon opens out and the sun glistens on the sea – it seems to do this even on grey days though you may need to look far away to see it. The route now heads east towards Southerndown and Dunraven Castle, through the car park with the sea on the right. As soon as we were away from the concreted area, we scrambled over some rocks to sit gazing out to sea whilst eating our lunch and trying to work out whether any of the black birds hopping about on the grass were choughs. For some reason it is hard to spot their red beaks and legs but eventually, we were all convinced we had seen one (should have brought binoculars).

Looking over my shoulder briefly I noticed someone walking along the path that I thought I recognised – a celebrity. I quietly said something to my companions who said I was wrong. But… when we resumed our walk who should walk towards us but Gareth ‘Alfie’ Thomas of Welsh rugby. We were so cool, and he was very gracious exchanging greetings with us but underneath two of us were excited and the other two (English) had no idea who he was.

This stretch of the coast is picturesque and mostly level with a short steep climb near Southerndown. Then there is a steep drop down to Dunraven Bay where there are facilities and Dunraven castle and Walled garden (where according to legend there is another ghost!)

From here we walked inland passing the Heritage centre and then across farmland to come out opposite the Farmers Arms. Passing the pond and pump, we turned right to avoid the busy main road, climbing the road behind a row of houses. At the top there was a steep descent back to the road and our cars.

Walk 5-8 miles depending on which route is taken. Map 151

 

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Sirhowy Valley Country Park

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Sirhowy Valley Country park is south of Caerphilly, with 4 miles of flat well surfaced path along the former railway track. The entrance to the park follows the old railway and we drove past Full Moon, once the site of the Full Moon Inn and a small community of cottages but all that remains is the crossing keeper’s cottage. We parked at Nine-mile point car park.

It was a gloomy morning, but the air was fresh as we set off, not along the level railway but straight up the hillside to reach Mynydd Machen Common. The steep valley walls of bare cliff made it seem steeper than it is. A large tree had fallen across the path but luckily it was a good distance off the ground and we easily ducked under it.

Up here we had good views across the valley, houses old and new nestling into the red hillside rising behind them. Ferns lift the spirits at this time of year in their winter russet coats (if you can look at them from a distance rather than walk through them!). The rain-soaked ground beneath our feet was soft but, in most places, there were stones beneath the surface, so we did not sink far.

A feature of the walk was the number of fungi we spotted. Some traditional mushroom shaped glowing an orange colour, lacy frills around twigs and fallen tree branches and some climbing through dead trees. The trees looking as if they are being eaten alive by the fungi but of course they are only there because the tree is dead, and they are clearing the dead wood with many insects helping them.

 

The trees form sculptures as bereft of their leaves you can see their structure. A fallen tree covered in moss looked like a creature stalking through the wood. Old beech hedges, now several trees, with their lower limbs and roots exposed and wrapped around one another along a boundary were fascinating. Two trees apparently reaching out to each other as two branches were wedded together about 3ft from the ground, created a seat. An old stone wall was steadily being destroyed by a tree pushing its way through the restriction.

The sun came out and we enjoyed its heat and the views all around us. We found a relatively dry, grassy ledge to sit on for lunch, and gazed out at the distant Channel watching clouds blow across and then towards us, the view disappeared just as we finished.

Now it was time to head downhill. Partly on a tarmacadamed road but also along a stretch of particularly muddy path, luckily there was a stream flowing down it and we walked in the stream to use the stones for purchase. Then the stream ran out and one of us (me!) slipped and almost ended up with their face in the mud! Apparently, it looked quite dramatic, but the landing was soft, and the only damage was a small graze and muddy hands and trousers. Some long, wet grass took care of the hands and we were on our way. Before long we arrived at the railway with a level walk back to the cars.

To the miners of the valleys a ‘journey’ meant a line of coal trams joined together. The Sirhowy Valley has been a place of journeys for the past two centuries. Iron and coal travelled down the valley by horse, canal, road and rail. Salmon and trout made their way up and down the river to mate or find their way back to the sea.

An intricate metalwork sculpture stood at the top of a post showing horse drawn carts, steam trains, cyclists and trees. Bright pink open-ended boxes hung from lots of the trees and we decided they were for detecting the presence of small mammals. It was a while before we could see the river at the bottom of the valley even though we could hear it and narrow waterfalls tumbled down the hillside to it.

The Sirhowy valley tramroad joined the Monmouthshire canal tramroad at Nine-mile point on its way to Newport. Sir Charles Morgan, of Tredegar house, and his business partner John Jones had a colliery at Blackwood and needed a new tramroad to get their coal to Newport. The Sirhowy company fought the construction of the new road. Only the threat of an Act of Parliament brought agreement and the Penllwyn tramroad was built by1824. By 1864 the practical use of the tramroad was finished as it was replaced by the railway. Penllwyn Tramroad Bridge crosses the river near Nine-mile point. it has an impressive arch and is a grade II listed structure, with the original stone sleepers still visible.

Walk 8.3 miles Map 166

 

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