Category: Community Groups

Capel-y-ffin

Getting to Capel-y-ffin (the Chapel at the end) is not easy. We drove to Llanthony and then along the valley following a narrow windy lane for over 2 miles; parking is restricted. A red kite swooped over us as we travelled. This and the sight of a cyclist (male) in day glow pink leggings and baby pink shoes assured us of an interesting day. Indeed we were following in the footsteps of William and Dorothy Wordsworth; this was one of their favourite areas to walk. Bruce Chatwin used to cycle here as a child, he later called it one of the emotional centres of his life.

Setting out along the road we crossed Nant Bwch to follow Afon Honddu and could see a large building, to the west, in the distance. This was the Grange, a monastery and ruined chapel built by Joseph Leycester Lyne, known as Father Ignatius, in 1870. He tried to reintroduce the monastic tradition to the Anglican Church. His builders took advantage of his unsuspecting nature and skimped on foundations, damp proofing etc. The monastic idyll disintegrated along with the buildings and the chapel is fenced off with a ‘Dangerous structure’ sign. The monastery is now a trekking centre.

Soon we were climbing a fairly steep hill to the south eastern end of the ridge. As we rested to look back at the glorious view of the valley towards Llanthony we met a group of 4 young men coming down. They had come from Birmingham and were walking to Hay-On-Wye (10miles). One of them, an Italian, was blown away by the beauty of the place – he didn’t know this country held such treasures.

The path along the ridge was easy though slightly uphill. Dark clouds gathered in the sky creating a dramatic atmosphere. The boggiest section was paved and the surrounding area covered in lines of fleeces. Apparently they help the land to recover. At the end of the ridge, Lord Hereford’s Knob, the spectacular view opened up to the northwest across relatively flat land and you could see for miles. It was lunchtime and we were ready to eat but a fierce wind had got up and we continued to an outcrop of rocks a little to the southwest. Even the rocks couldn’t protect us so we turned our backs on the view and started down the valley. In no time we were on the banks of a small stream in the sunshine – lovely.

The descent through the valley was gorgeous. A herd of ponies and their foals tossed their manes in the wind. In the protected valley, Nant Bwch shimmered in the sun and heather clad banks glowed. The sheep were the whitest I had ever seen and stones beside tributaries also glowed white in places (presumably limestone). And it was so quiet it was heavenly. We had heard no cars, aeroplanes or other manmade noise (apart from voices) all day and only met a handful of people.

Crossing Nant Bwch we walked along a lane passing Talsarn Farm and the Grange to come back into Capel-y-ffin. Walk 7miles 1500ft ascent. Map OL13

 

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Llanthony

We parked at Llanthony Priory, in the care of Cadw and freely open to the public. The hamlet of Llanthony nestles in the heart of the beautiful Vale of Ewyas. This is the easternmost valley of the Black mountains, described by Gerald of Wales in 1188 as ‘encircled on all sides by lofty mountains, but no more than three arrow shots in width’.

Here in this remote and tranquil valley an Augustinian priory was founded early in the 12th century. A wealthy nobleman, William de Lacy, sheltered in the ruined Celtic chapel of St David, and overcome by devotion decided to found the priory. The Augustinians, popularly known as Black Canons from the colour of their outer garments, were organised on monastic lines but were ordained priests going out to preach and hold services in nearby churches. Nothing remains of the original buildings as the monks were forced to retreat to Hereford and Gloucester by attacks from the primarily English community. The structures visible today date from the 13th century, when the priory was re-established and the Priory church built. Completed around 1230, it was closed 300 years later by Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monasteries. Later a house, now a hotel, was built amongst the ruins where the monks once lived and worshipped.

As soon as we got out of the cars we could hear the loud reverberations of bleating sheep. Nearly all of us peeped over the stone wall (it was high) surrounding the car park to find a huge flock of hundreds of sheep on the other side – had they been brought down for shearing or market?

We walked past the priory taking the footpath towards Hatterall Ridge; it is quite steep in places but a lovely climb on good grass paths which narrow near the top due to bracken. We glanced back at the priory as we climbed and it appeared to shrink while the panorama of the countryside grew. The sweeping upland moorland is shaped by livestock grazing and traditional practices such as heather burning. Here a very special moth, the Silurian Moth, makes its home. The spring buds and leaves of the bilberry plant (known locally as the ‘whimberry’) feed the moth. The purple berries can be foraged by humans but they weren’t quite ripe enough for us. A sign reminded us that by law dogs must be kept on a lead between 1st March and 31st July and whenever livestock is nearby. This practice protects ground nesting birds such as red grouse.

A cairn marked the point at which we met the Offa’s Dyke path, the border between England and Wales. As we progressed along the ridge grazing horses came into view and larks briefly soared. On the side of the next ridge, in Wales, were curious circles shown clearly in the landscape we wondered how and for what purpose they were created. In one photograph I can count 17 of these circles and they seem to be connected by narrow tracks. A mystery!

We strode quite quickly along the ridge as the path is a pavement and thoroughly enjoyed the unusual freedom of not having to look where we were stepping. We took in the view around us: on our right and east, England relatively flat with rolling farmland and to our left, the wild hills of Wales and the Brecon Beacons National Park.

At a large cairn we stopped for a time contemplating and then turned towards Wales, starting our descent through the bracken covered hillside. We lost height quickly and came to a signpost directing us to Capel y Ffin. Now that we were lower the temperature rose and we enjoyed the local flora including some splendid foxgloves and thistles.

Arriving in the valley we disturbed a couple of black sheep, hiding in the bracken, and climbing a stile followed the road back to Llanthony. One of us had camped here many years ago and was able to share stories of all the various haunts they had explored.

On reaching Llanthony we walked around the ruins of the priory and the church of St David’s. A sign stated ‘Welcome to St David’s built on the earlier site of the monastic cell of St David, patron saint of Wales. This is one of the ancient and holy sites of Wales and has welcomed pilgrims throughout its history.’ It had a peaceful atmosphere andone of its stained glass windows has a white dove against a rich blue background – beautiful.

Walk7.25miles 1200ft ascent. Map OL13

 

 

 

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