Category: Community Groups

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Parc Cwm Darran

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On a fine day at the end of June we travelled to Parc Cwm Darran, north of Bargoed. Even the drive here was interesting as we found ourselves driving across an area which none of us had ever visited before – a vast coal reclamation site. We are so lucky that the industrial sites of our valleys have been redeveloped into wonderful Nature Parks. Parc Cwm Darran was created on the land abandoned when the Ogilvie mine closed in 1975. It now takes some imagination to picture the landscape covered in gantries and pitheads with millions of tonnes of coal waste in huge black mounds. Trees and grass would have struggled to grow in the wasteland created by the coal industry.

Since 1975 most of the coal buildings have been demolished, debris buried, and mineshafts capped. The mounds of waste have been reshaped to blend into the hilltops, the colliery feeder pond is now a reed fringed lake, a pond has been created and trees and grasses have been planted to provide habitats for wildlife. The result looks like a natural landscape and walking through the area makes you realise just how much can be achieved with what industry left behind.

Most importantly for us it has a network of footpaths and parking at the visitor centre we were able to use their facilities before starting our walk. There are several trails recommended from a stroll around the lake(1Km) for those with health challenges, a couple of slightly longer routes (up to 3Km) and cycle trails. For younger visitors there is even an Ogilvie Olympics obstacle course.

Luckily, we had a booklet with a recommended route that would take us up onto the hills for a longer walk. After a short walk along the lake in morning sunshine, we headed into the wooded hills. We had only just started out when we spotted some results of the regeneration, large furry caterpillars, and swathes of orchids in the grass.

We found a large stone entitled ‘Marquis of Bute Stone’ with an engraving ‘The Romans first introduced boundary and road marker posts. Until this time ditches had traditionally been used. The Roman marker stones, such as along the Apian Way leading to Rome, showed the name of the emperor only. The Marquis of Bute boundary stones demarcating land under their control, continued this tradition so that the letters MB are shown.’. In two places, once on the edge of moorland and again at the edge of the country park, we spotted these marker stones which rather grandly showed a B beneath a stylised crown.

Out in the open, a kite soared overhead, a sight which is always thrilling even though it is becoming more common. The land around us was lush and dotted with groups of trees. We entered an atmospheric stretch of oak woodland where all the tree trunks and branches were gnarled, bent and twisted. Maybe they struggled to grow during the industrial period this land experienced.

We emerged onto extensive moorland where we could see the outline of Pen y Fan and its accompanying hills in the far distance. We decided to break for lunch while we had sunshine and such good views.

Continuing, we spotted some strange structures at the top of the ridge, which looked like a 1970’s idea of a spaceship. According to a passer-by (one of the few people we saw all day) they are listening stations. Now we had a wide track to walk along and were surrounded by hundreds of sheep. The farmer drove towards us on his tractor, we stepped off the track and he had soon disappeared in a cloud of dust. Some sheep grazed next to a pond, and we noted the murky waters.

We skirted the Fochriw forest with its tall bare trunked fir trees and tumbledown stone walls and came back towards the country park. A long wooden sign at Cwmllwydrew Meadows Nature Reserve depicted a goods train with a tree branch covered with leaves as an engine.

Returning to the lake we saw plenty of waterfowl and yellow water lilies.

In medieval France, the yellow water lily was described as ‘the destroyer of pleasure and the poison of love’, the opposite to an aphrodisiac. Stonemasons carved flowers of the water lily into the roof bosses of Westminster Abbey to encourage celibacy.

Arriving back at the visitor centre we quickly changed out of our boots and sat in the shade enjoying tea and ice-creams whilst cooling down. By the time we left it was school chuck out time and the roads through the valleys were chock-a-block with parents trying to collect children. Avoiding the industrial route, we came by and the narrow valley roads with cars parked both sides some of us enjoyed a picturesque drive along a narrow mountain top road to pick up the main road to Cardiff, which rounded off the day nicely. Walk 7 miles, 800ft. Map 166

 

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Forest of Dean

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We ventured into England (just) for this walk in the Forest of Dean on the Wales/England border, parking in a large layby opposite Broadstone Park, Staunton. Returning down the hill we picked up a track leading to the Kymin, a National Trust property with stunning views across Monmouthshire and a map showing what is visible. You can park here but the end of the walk would be a steep climb back up – not a good idea. There is a Naval Temple with inscriptions on all 4 faces. A group of girls from Surrey were sat on the grass psyching themselves for their Duke of Edinburgh treks; we wished them success.

We headed downhill through Beaulieu Wood and spotted a field with beehives where beekeepers were working in their protective clothes.

We took a broad path through High Meadow Wood picking up the Wysis Way, an 88Km route which connects Offa’s Dyke to Thames path. Sweet chestnut trees have grown here for centuries, some of them exceptionally large. The forest has deciduous and evergreen trees including oak, both pedunculate and sessile, and beech. Now we began to find some huge stones towering above us. We passed the Everard Oak, an impressive tree rising from the deep hillside and designated by the verderers of the Forest of Dean to John Everard in appreciation of his service as deputy surveyor.

We turned onto a footpath to our right climbing steeply and suddenly we were miniaturised by the Suck Stone, probably 40,000tons in weight. It has slipped down the hill and is widely regarded as the largest detached boulder in Britain. It is said that if anyone climbs the stone, they will be visited by the mischievous fairy of the rock who will grant them superhuman powers.

Continuing to climb we arrived at the immense Near Hearkening rock. It is an overhanging cliff of erratic stone, comprising quartz conglomerate and red sandstone. It is called Hearkening rock as gamekeepers used it to detect poachers, in search of the King’s deer, at night, the acoustics allowing you to hear a whisper – needless to say, we did not notice this as we were all chatting amongst ourselves. We stopped for lunch here, spreading out across the stone and under trees, with views across to Skirrid, the Black mountains and Monmouthshire.

Now we entered Lady Park Wood, it is an ancient broadleaf woodland untouched since 1944 – probably the closest to a primeval forest you are likely to find. The sense of quiet peace in this area was remarkable, my whole body seemed to sigh and absorb the wonderful energy of this place.

Staunton village’s name comes from Old English Stane (as in Stane street) and ‘Tun’ a stony settlement. Staunton is mentioned in the Domesday book as one farmstead and a waste or meend.

We soon spotted the village pound, originally built in the 17thC to hold stray animals. The pound keeper was responsible for the animals and extracted a fine for their release, a practice which continued until mid 20thC. The current pound was built to replace one on the site of the National school, which is now the village hall. At the Old people’s home nearby there were two fancy dress scarecrows, a carer and a resident, propped against the fence and looking down on us.

Opposite the late Norman, All Saints church are medieval buildings which were a granary, mill, windmill, alms house and the remains of the medieval village cross.

Now we walked through Hymens Meend, a more open area, and reached a trig point. Nearby is the Buck stone with terrific views into Wales. The stone is another monster; it was once a rocking stone but was dislodged by Victorian vandals, an inn keeper with actors from London. The stone was split into several pieces, but it was cemented back together in 1886 and secured in place with an iron bar; it no longer rocks. About six tons of chains, huge timbers and enormous cranes were used to ‘skid’ the stone back up the hill to its current location. At one time it was believed that the stone had been placed in its position by Druidic agency and may have been a druidic altar.

Skirting Staunton Meend, we had brilliant views south to England near Buckstone House and returned to the cars. What a wonderful walk. It had been a warm day but luckily, we had spent most of it in woodland and kept reasonably cool.

Walk 6.5 miles, 1200ft. Map OL14

 

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Pontiscill/ Taf Fechan

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This is a walk planned for last autumn but abandoned, due to a landslide (still in evidence all these months later). This time the road was open but as we passed Pontiscill reservoir a large coach came in the opposite direction and our convoy had to back up to allow it to pass which was not easy on such a narrow road. Then the Owl Grove car park, Taf Fechan Forest, was shut but there had been no notice on their website (currently closed in the week and open at weekends). We had to drive up the road to Torpantau station where we were able to park as the steam train was not running. Phew! Now we could get on with the business of walking.

Our route was to the Lower Neuadd reservoir and back down the Taf Fechan (4 miles) with a possible extension to the foot of Cribyn.

The track from Torpantau station is excellent and that day the weather ideal for walking, temperature exactly right and no rain.

Walking up the valley we were almost constantly serenaded by larks flying high above the moors. Causing two of us to chant ‘Ark, Ark the Lark in Cardiff Arms Park’ (with apologies to Max Boyce).

Crossing the stream of Nant y Gloedd we had to decide whether to continue or walk across the bottom of Lower Neuadd reservoir for our return. Everyone voted to continue uphill towards the foot of Cribyn. And were we glad we did. Soon, one person heard our first cuckoo of spring, but it only called once. A second person heard it on our return down the valley but again it only called once.

A bit later we spotted a bird of prey flying across our path ahead, we quickly realised it was a kite and watched its swooping flight. Before long, a second kite had joined it and they swooped and turned together until they flew off to the distant mountains. A wonderful interlude.

 

At the head of the valley and the foot of Cribyn is a col where a huge vista opens with Brecon and Powys spread out below a steep drop. We stopped here in sunshine for lunch and in no time a pony (part of a herd grazing nearby) came over and approached each of us in turn in the hope of food. We all resisted, and it eventually returned to grazing with its mates. As we ate, we saw a steady stream of cyclists, struggling up the steep hill. As they crested the col, they each breathed a sigh of relief and stopped.

Now it was time to retrace our steps to the reservoir. We spied a plane in the sky which appeared to be climbing vertically, both the plane and the ascent were unusual, but the latter was probably because of the high hills.

Work is being done to restore the Lower Neuadd reservoir and it will bring the local water closer to its former, natural course before the dam was built in 1884. The reservoir is no longer needed as a water resource so the existing dam will be modified to allow water to flow naturally through the valley.

A public footpath and new bridge will be installed to allow continued enjoyment of the walking area – with the existing footpath diverted while the work is carried out. Any area where work is done, including work to the dam, will be restored to ensure the beauty of the local area is maintained and an improved natural ecological habitat provided.

Water levels in the reservoir are being steadily reduced to ensure work is undertaken safely with the least disruption possible to local wildlife and habitat. Welsh Water has ensured fish have been moved to a new habitat. This will be monitored and, by removing a significant barrier to fish and restoring the downstream passage of sediment, the work will have major benefits to habitat connectivity on the Taf Fechan.

Our return was along the west side of Taf Fechan. The sun was quite hot now, so we appreciated the sound of water and some shade from trees. Arriving at the Owl Grove car park we found it had just opened for the weekend! But we had to trudge uphill to our cars in the heat of the day, a warm end to a fabulous walk.

A big bonus was that the Barn tea rooms were open, and we had tea and cakes or ice cream. Walk 8.5miles, 1200ft. Map OL12.

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Cardiff Parks

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The first official Wenvoe Walkers mid-week walk started at Victoria Park. On a bright sunny afternoon, we took in Thompson’s Park, Llandaff fields, Pontcanna and the river Taff before circling Llandaff cathedral and making our way to Insole Court where we had drinks. So good to be together again.

 

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