The Salt Path by Raynor Winn


At last the Covid 19 restrictions relaxed enough to allow us to meet in Jill’s lovely garden with delicious cake to follow!

We discussed The Salt Path by Raynor Winn. For Raynor Winn and her husband Moth, the cruellest of diagnoses and the simultaneous collapse of their business opens an unexpected door to salvation through a journey which, over its length, transforms into a sweeping narrative of inner courage and nature’s ability to heal. They have almost no money for food or shelter and must carry only the essentials for survival on their backs as they live wild in the ancient, weathered landscape of cliffs, sea and sky. Yet through every step, every encounter, and every test along the way, their walk becomes a remarkable journey.

There were mixed feelings regarding the book. Nearly everyone agreed that it was a good read with great evocative descriptions of the weather, geography and the hardships encountered. It was not a negative book despite the sadness of their situation with lots to smile at.

However, many felt that it didn’t quite ring true. There was some criticism of the lack of Moth’s viewpoint or communication with their children, despite the couple’s closeness; Ray seemed in denial of Moth’s condition and that she was pushing him. Ray came across as not a very nice person. Many felt that there had been a lack of planning in relation to equipment, irresponsibility in not considering Moth’s medical condition or medication and some resentment about their taking advantage of others.

All agreed that it was good to read a book that led to wider discussions regarding ‘wild’ camping on private land which could encourage others to think that it was possible and right to do (although illegal in much of Britain), the problems of litter in wild places and sharing long distance walking stories.

Scores out of 10 ranged from 6 to 9 resulting in an average of 8.

Other books discussed:

Barak Obama’s autobiography

Hamnet by Maggie O’Farrell

The Lake of Dreams by Kim Edwards

A Single Thread by Tracey Chevalier

The Bell in The Lake by Lars Mytting.

 

 



 

Forest of Dean


Forest of Dean


 

We ventured into England (just) for this walk in the Forest of Dean on the Wales/England border, parking in a large layby opposite Broadstone Park, Staunton. Returning down the hill we picked up a track leading to the Kymin, a National Trust property with stunning views across Monmouthshire and a map showing what is visible. You can park here but the end of the walk would be a steep climb back up – not a good idea. There is a Naval Temple with inscriptions on all 4 faces. A group of girls from Surrey were sat on the grass psyching themselves for their Duke of Edinburgh treks; we wished them success.

We headed downhill through Beaulieu Wood and spotted a field with beehives where beekeepers were working in their protective clothes.

We took a broad path through High Meadow Wood picking up the Wysis Way, an 88Km route which connects Offa’s Dyke to Thames path. Sweet chestnut trees have grown here for centuries, some of them exceptionally large. The forest has deciduous and evergreen trees including oak, both pedunculate and sessile, and beech. Now we began to find some huge stones towering above us. We passed the Everard Oak, an impressive tree rising from the deep hillside and designated by the verderers of the Forest of Dean to John Everard in appreciation of his service as deputy surveyor.

We turned onto a footpath to our right climbing steeply and suddenly we were miniaturised by the Suck Stone, probably 40,000tons in weight. It has slipped down the hill and is widely regarded as the largest detached boulder in Britain. It is said that if anyone climbs the stone, they will be visited by the mischievous fairy of the rock who will grant them superhuman powers.

Continuing to climb we arrived at the immense Near Hearkening rock. It is an overhanging cliff of erratic stone, comprising quartz conglomerate and red sandstone. It is called Hearkening rock as gamekeepers used it to detect poachers, in search of the King’s deer, at night, the acoustics allowing you to hear a whisper – needless to say, we did not notice this as we were all chatting amongst ourselves. We stopped for lunch here, spreading out across the stone and under trees, with views across to Skirrid, the Black mountains and Monmouthshire.

Now we entered Lady Park Wood, it is an ancient broadleaf woodland untouched since 1944 – probably the closest to a primeval forest you are likely to find. The sense of quiet peace in this area was remarkable, my whole body seemed to sigh and absorb the wonderful energy of this place.

Staunton village’s name comes from Old English Stane (as in Stane street) and ‘Tun’ a stony settlement. Staunton is mentioned in the Domesday book as one farmstead and a waste or meend.

We soon spotted the village pound, originally built in the 17thC to hold stray animals. The pound keeper was responsible for the animals and extracted a fine for their release, a practice which continued until mid 20thC. The current pound was built to replace one on the site of the National school, which is now the village hall. At the Old people’s home nearby there were two fancy dress scarecrows, a carer and a resident, propped against the fence and looking down on us.

Opposite the late Norman, All Saints church are medieval buildings which were a granary, mill, windmill, alms house and the remains of the medieval village cross.

Now we walked through Hymens Meend, a more open area, and reached a trig point. Nearby is the Buck stone with terrific views into Wales. The stone is another monster; it was once a rocking stone but was dislodged by Victorian vandals, an inn keeper with actors from London. The stone was split into several pieces, but it was cemented back together in 1886 and secured in place with an iron bar; it no longer rocks. About six tons of chains, huge timbers and enormous cranes were used to ‘skid’ the stone back up the hill to its current location. At one time it was believed that the stone had been placed in its position by Druidic agency and may have been a druidic altar.

Skirting Staunton Meend, we had brilliant views south to England near Buckstone House and returned to the cars. What a wonderful walk. It had been a warm day but luckily, we had spent most of it in woodland and kept reasonably cool.

Walk 6.5 miles, 1200ft. Map OL14

 



 

Pontiscill/ Taf Fechan


Pontiscill/ Taf Fechan


This is a walk planned for last autumn but abandoned, due to a landslide (still in evidence all these months later). This time the road was open but as we passed Pontiscill reservoir a large coach came in the opposite direction and our convoy had to back up to allow it to pass which was not easy on such a narrow road. Then the Owl Grove car park, Taf Fechan Forest, was shut but there had been no notice on their website (currently closed in the week and open at weekends). We had to drive up the road to Torpantau station where we were able to park as the steam train was not running. Phew! Now we could get on with the business of walking.

Our route was to the Lower Neuadd reservoir and back down the Taf Fechan (4 miles) with a possible extension to the foot of Cribyn.

The track from Torpantau station is excellent and that day the weather ideal for walking, temperature exactly right and no rain.

Walking up the valley we were almost constantly serenaded by larks flying high above the moors. Causing two of us to chant ‘Ark, Ark the Lark in Cardiff Arms Park’ (with apologies to Max Boyce).

Crossing the stream of Nant y Gloedd we had to decide whether to continue or walk across the bottom of Lower Neuadd reservoir for our return. Everyone voted to continue uphill towards the foot of Cribyn. And were we glad we did. Soon, one person heard our first cuckoo of spring, but it only called once. A second person heard it on our return down the valley but again it only called once.

A bit later we spotted a bird of prey flying across our path ahead, we quickly realised it was a kite and watched its swooping flight. Before long, a second kite had joined it and they swooped and turned together until they flew off to the distant mountains. A wonderful interlude.

 

At the head of the valley and the foot of Cribyn is a col where a huge vista opens with Brecon and Powys spread out below a steep drop. We stopped here in sunshine for lunch and in no time a pony (part of a herd grazing nearby) came over and approached each of us in turn in the hope of food. We all resisted, and it eventually returned to grazing with its mates. As we ate, we saw a steady stream of cyclists, struggling up the steep hill. As they crested the col, they each breathed a sigh of relief and stopped.

Now it was time to retrace our steps to the reservoir. We spied a plane in the sky which appeared to be climbing vertically, both the plane and the ascent were unusual, but the latter was probably because of the high hills.

Work is being done to restore the Lower Neuadd reservoir and it will bring the local water closer to its former, natural course before the dam was built in 1884. The reservoir is no longer needed as a water resource so the existing dam will be modified to allow water to flow naturally through the valley.

A public footpath and new bridge will be installed to allow continued enjoyment of the walking area – with the existing footpath diverted while the work is carried out. Any area where work is done, including work to the dam, will be restored to ensure the beauty of the local area is maintained and an improved natural ecological habitat provided.

Water levels in the reservoir are being steadily reduced to ensure work is undertaken safely with the least disruption possible to local wildlife and habitat. Welsh Water has ensured fish have been moved to a new habitat. This will be monitored and, by removing a significant barrier to fish and restoring the downstream passage of sediment, the work will have major benefits to habitat connectivity on the Taf Fechan.

Our return was along the west side of Taf Fechan. The sun was quite hot now, so we appreciated the sound of water and some shade from trees. Arriving at the Owl Grove car park we found it had just opened for the weekend! But we had to trudge uphill to our cars in the heat of the day, a warm end to a fabulous walk.

A big bonus was that the Barn tea rooms were open, and we had tea and cakes or ice cream. Walk 8.5miles, 1200ft. Map OL12.



Cardiff Parks


The first official Wenvoe Walkers mid-week walk started at Victoria Park. On a bright sunny afternoon, we took in Thompson’s Park, Llandaff fields, Pontcanna and the river Taff before circling Llandaff cathedral and making our way to Insole Court where we had drinks. So good to be together again.

 



 

More Walking  Books

Walking  Books


The Hiding Game by Naomi Wood


Social distancing continues, so a gentle stroll in the playing fields preceded our Page Turners’ meeting lolling on the grass in the very sunny orchard!

We discussed ‘The Hiding Game’ by Naomi Wood. This novel traces the chequered relationships of a group of disparate students at the Bauhaus school of art during Germany’s turbulent 1920’s.

On line reviews were very favourable, but one reviewer did say that The Hiding Game was not a book to be read at speed. Due to the nature of its content they found themselves putting the book down to carry out their own research on line.

Those Page Turners who were not so knowledgeable nor diligent with probing the history found this novel to be tedious. Several thought the characters were uninspiring and that the story line was weak.

But for those who had an interest in the Bauhaus movement and the period of the rise of the Nazis, it was a very enjoyable and stimulating read.

Our scoring ranged from 9/10 to 4/10.

 



 

Because Cowards Get Cancer Too

OFF THE SHELF


 

 

Because Cowards get Cancer too


This month’s book was Because Cowards get Cancer too. Many of us remembered journalist John Diamond revealing his cancer diagnosis in his Times column. He was just forty-four, the husband of Nigella Lawson, and a self-confessed hypochondriac.

Hypochondria normally comes in two varieties. The chronic version, which turns every twinge into a cardiac event, every spot into a melanoma, every cold into pneumonia, is the worst because of the not knowing. By comparison, the acute version, in which a doctor with a real medical degree tells you that you do have some actual minor illness and that you can look ill when you tell people about it in the pub, is, in its way, rather cheering. But this is beyond those conditions. Nobody can tell me that the fear of being put under for an hour or so while they cut your neck open is an irrational one.

Diamond was the first journalist to take his readers on his cancer journey both in his column and in TV documentaries. His three-year cancer experience began with an optimistic prognosis, treatment led to remission and faith for a healthy future only for the cancer to return and his hopes of survival shattered. Light-hearted and even humorous in parts we found his story harrowing and disturbing and his fear palpable. An insightful but not an enjoyable read. We gave it 7 out of 10.

 

 

Walking  Books

THE PAGE TURNERS

Walking  Books


As Welsh Government Covid restrictions meant the Page Turners could not meet inside, it was decided to have a meeting in the fresh air and walk ‘n’ talk. The Page Turners met over Cold Knap, starting off beneath the railway tunnel as the rain pelted down. The rain disappeared, the sun shone and after a short ramble around the lake, the Page Turners stopped to discuss their last book choice…from December 2020.

The book under discussion was A Little Life”, a 2015 novel by American author, Hanya Yanagihara. The novel tells the story of four friends from college through to middle age, with a particular focus on Jude, who has a mysterious past which he is reluctant to discuss. It is a mammoth book about a difficult subject matter, yet achieved a ranking on the Guardian’s list of the 100 best books of the 21st century. Nicola described it as a challenging read and the Page Turners agreed it was a harrowing read as the abuse of Jude is described in great detail; although the novel is very well written, Babs summed up what people thought when she said she couldn’t wait to get to the end of the book. To be recommended if you want a rollercoaster ride through one man’s disturbing, traumatic and distressing past.

 



 

Wye Valley


Wye Valley


At last, we have freedom to travel for our walks and to meet in increasing numbers. Four of us travelled to Goodrich Castle (English Heritage) in Herefordshire for a walk beside the river Wye.

The beginning of the walk was along the road to Kerne bridge, a beautiful old stone bridge with several arches. Despite the traffic on the road this stretch was spectacular as, we could see the outline of Goodrich Castle on the hill, a country house set back from the road and bright yellow fields of oil seed rape all with a backdrop of dramatic purple, grey heavy clouds and even though we knew we were in for a soaking of a different sort we soaked it up.

The country house, whose buildings are Grade I listed, was originally the refectory of the Augustinian, Flanesford Priory. Weakened by the Black Death the priory was one of the first to succumb at the Dissolution of the Monasteries.

At Kerne Bridge we descended to the footpath alongside the Wye and from the start we were accompanied by canoeists on the river, increasing in number as the day wore on. We spotted lots of swans on the river (some nesting) as well as mallards and two mandarin ducks.

The footpath was blocked by a fallen tree whose root ball seemed to be about 10ft high. Others had passed before us, so we were able to get around it. Walking through open fields we saw the usual symbol of spring, lambs aplenty but mostly in ‘gangs’ away from their ewes. Cows grazed with calves and we were lucky to see a calf suckling.

At Welsh Bicknor there is a flamboyant High Victorian Church and the youth hostel, a former rectory. The land is owned by the YHA and we noticed a couple of stylish, camouflaged glamping pods were being installed. We stopped here for lunch. A quick look around the outside of the church shows an amazing amount of decoration, including 3 arches in the porch besides the one above the door

We came upon a new memorial to a group of scientists who died when their aircraft caught fire 15,000ft above the Forest of Dean and plummeted to earth. It was on a return journey to RAF Defford, near Worcester, from South Wales. Alan Dower Blumlein, a driving force in the development of airborne radar, was one of the dead, along with other colleagues from EMI, the RAF and the Telecommunications Research Establishment (TRE). They were working on H2S radar which was a cutting edge “Air to Surface” radar system that went on to help win WWII. The plane was carrying the highly secret cavity magnetron and Sir Bernard Lovell (who was later knighted for his work at Jodrell Bank and had given up his seat on the plane to another scientist) sifted through the wreckage on the night of the crash to retrieve it. He was affected by the tragedy for the rest of his life. Blumlein’s wife is quoted on the memorial ‘If you have to die, this is a beautiful place’. The sacrifice of the 11 men is also remembered by a memorial stained-glass window which was installed at Goodrich Castle chapel on the 50th anniversary of the crash.

Continuing our walk one of us looked back and spotted a deer where we had just been. As we stopped and watched lots more followed and began to graze. Later as we passed woodland, we saw another herd of deer. How lucky was that two herds of fallow deer in one day?

As we approached Symonds Yat, we passed the grave of a child in his 16th year who drowned while bathing in the river. At an outcrop of rock, we could see two separate birds sat on nests but so far away it was difficult to identify them. Symonds Yat Rock viewpoint is well known as one of the best places in the country to watch peregrine falcons, so maybe we saw one.

We left the river on a path to Coppet Hill, climbing back to Goodrich village and then up to the castle.

What a fabulous walk, apart from one (very heavy) shower the sun shone all day, the area is beautiful with lots of interest, both historic and natural. This stretch of the River Wye, from Kerne Bridge to Coppet Hill, is shaped a bit like an upside-down heart. Goodrich Castle is red sandstone, dates mainly from 13th century and is worth exploring but the café was still open for refreshment, so we had tea and cake in the spring sunshine whilst wondering what the traffic on the M4 was going to be like on a bank holiday Friday.

Walk 9 miles, level walk apart from the climb back to Goodrich Castle at the end.

 



 

The Colour of Magic by Terry Pratchett

OFF THE SHELF


The Colour of Magic” by Terry Pratchett


 

(His first Discworld novel)

‘A fantastic book that is quite absurd and I really didn’t expect to like it at all, in fact I’m furious that I actually enjoyed it’.

Quote from a book club member

The Colour of Magic is set on a world sitting on the back of a giant turtle (sex unknown). The main characters are an avaricious but inept wizard called Rincewind, who becomes completely beguiling as the story unravels, and a naive tourist called Two Flower, whose rather menacing luggage follows closely behind moving on hundreds of legs. There are dragons aplenty, who only exist if you believe in them. Many eccentric adventures occur which take twists and turns as the travellers are whisked ever nearer to THE EDGE of the planet.

Terry Pratchett takes the seriousness out of the usual fantasy genre and replaces it with a really wicked sense of humour. He creates a beautifully imagined world with wonderfully described characters. This is obviously an excellent place to start reading Pratchett’s novels as it gives the background history of the main characters. The action starts in Ahnk Morpork, a city that becomes firmly implanted in the memory.

This is perhaps the first book read by the group which has left us unsure who to recommend it to! We did all agree that it was terrifically written, and if you managed to persevere past the first three chapters it was all great fun.

An overall score of 7 was finally agreed

 



 

Happy Memory Books

“THE PAGE TURNERS BOOKS PROMPTING HAPPY MEMORIES”


Due to ongoing Welsh Government restrictions, Page Turners were not able to meet up. Instead, book club members were asked to reflect on a book that has a special place on their book shelf, or Kindle! A piece of music can often bring back happy and cheerful memories of a time, a place, or a person, and books can evoke similar feelings. The Page Turners were asked to nominate a book they had read that can provoke or prompt happy memories… Do you agree with these choices?

May and Nicola have both spent some time in Africa: May was a teacher in Botswana for 2 years and Nicola grew up in Zambia. They made the same choice of a series of books: The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency by Alexander McCall. For May the books brought back memories of the cheerful, hospitable people in Botswana, the colourful birds, dusty roads, villages of rondavels and continuing blue skies and warm, sunny days. Nicola loved these books as they are so evocative of Africa. She believes Mma Ramotswe, the detective, epitomises a particular type of African woman with down to earth humour and pragmatism.

Babs selection was Angels And Demons by Dan Brown. This book evokes memories of several visits to Rome: Babs has had a number of fantastic holidays in Rome with some lovely people she has been lucky enough to know in her life. She loves the history, the many wonderful buildings, the atmosphere, the people and the food, all of which she is reminded of by this book.

Sandra chose a poem, Under Milk Wood by Dylan Thomas. This poem reminds Sandra of when she first met Peter (her soon to be husband), a true Welsh man, who wanted to teach Sandra, an English lady, about Wales. Sandra was at College in Salisbury and at the play house there was a production of Under Milk Wood. Peter took Sandra to the production, possibly to impress her (Sandra maintains). This was one of their first outings together, which she enjoyed immensely. This poem brings back many good memories for Sandra.

Special memories for Sylvia are prompted by the 1967 TV adaptation of The Forsyte Saga by John Galsworthy. This starred Eric Porter, Nyree Dawn Porter, Kenneth More and Susan Hampshire. It was on for 26 episodes, and Sylvia can still remember the anticipation and the unfolding of the story. No catch up in those days!

Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone by J.K. Rowling was Jenny’s choice. Jenny remembers many a happy hour spent reading out loud alternate chapters with her young 7 year old son, in a quiet little Greek taverna on a beach, the waves cooling their toes. Although it was a long time ago, the book makes her recall the sheer bliss of this time. And her son? He went on to collect and read the entire series!

Lynne chose The Magus by John Fowles. The Magus tells the story of Nicholas Urfe, a young British graduate who is teaching English on a small Greek island. It seemed an appropriate choice for reading after finishing my college finals, as my dreams for the future were to travel to sunnier climes. A friend and I, and The Magus, jetted off to Tenerife to await our results. This book reminds me of blissfully carefree, relaxing days under blue skies…away from the cares of the world!

Helen selected Arts of the Eskimo by Patrick Furneaux and Leo Rosshandler. While living in Canada in the early 1970’s, Helen and her husband were greatly enamoured of the Inuit’s traditions. She believes much can be learned about the dreams as well as the activities of a culture long rooted in its environment. Helen was given the Arts of the Eskimo book and in the following months she purchased four of their original works of art. These pictures still grace her walls today and the pictures and the book evoke many very happy memories.

Is there a book on your bookshelf that prompts a journey into a different time, space or place? I hope you enjoyed reading about our choices.

 



 

St Nicholas to Peterston-super-Ely

Footsteps


St Nicholas to Peterston-super-Ely


Escaping from Wenvoe, we parked in St Nicholas, near the church, and explored north to Peterston-super-Ely. I walked with 3 different households over a few days. As one of my companions said, ‘It’s so nice to have a view to the north after so long.’

The first outing took us west from the church, towards the school and a footpath alongside the school. Opposite the church was a fruit tree in full blossom – beautiful. The school has several large, raised beds, an outside classroom, a playing field and a small pond, with a plastic duck. A good fence surrounds the whole area, but we saw several rabbits ‘trespassing’.

Crossing a couple of fields to the west we were surrounded by one of the sounds of spring – ewes calling their bleating lambs – so young and tiny. We stayed clear of them and came to a track leading north through trees. At a junction we took a left to cross Cottrell Park golf course and entered woodland. This is delightful now bright yellow celandine, white wood anemones, pussy willows, violets – white and blue, primroses, and the first signs of bluebells all jostled for our attention. I gathered wild garlic for supper.

The lane joins a road at a babbling stream and leads to a Chapel in Peterston-super-Ely. It is worth exploring the graveyard  there are some interesting headstones, but the ground is uneven. Turning right at the T junction we walked across the bridge over the river Ely to follow the river. There are benches along the river, a good place to rest and have a snack. You can walk further into the village to explore the village and church but return to the footbridge over the river to Wyndham Park. A wide avenue of trees takes you uphill past lovely houses. Snakes head fritillaries were spotted on the roadside verge. You can walk around this estate to find the ‘Moroccan’ houses and street names reminiscent of Dyffryn gardens.

Near the top of the hill, on the right, the footpath passes between two houses. At the field, we walked away from the houses and through a gap in the hedge on the left to follow the righthand boundary of the next field, emerging at Homri where building work is taking place. The drive becomes a road and leads back to St Nicholas. If you have not seen it already look for the grave of the blacksmith in the churchyard. This route is 3 miles.

On the second outing we started the walk in the same way but on reaching Peterston-super-Ely we did not cross the river but entered the National Trust meadows (footpath on the left just before the river). After a short walk there is an orchard on the right with a living willow shelter. We could not resist stopping for elevenses in the morning sunshine.

Re-joining the footpath, we turned right after crossing a small stream to walk along the river. This area is Pendoylan Moors (the other side of the river being Peterston Moors) and in winter is a flood plain. We were surprised to find it dried out so early in the year and walked north until we came near the farm. As you walk here you need to look ahead for the next footpath sign and keep to that line, if you follow the river itself you will wind all over the place and walk a lot further. It was quiet here apart from the regular trains running past in the distance – we saw 2 goods trains with 21 carriages. We espied buzzards soaring overhead and clouds of house martins swooping down over the water. Retracing our steps to Peterston-super-Ely, we crossed the bridge to pick up the previous walk. – There is a Valeways leaflet describing a 7-mile route which travels further north and comes back to Peterston-super-Ely on the eastern side of the river.

A third outing involved leaving St Nicholas via the road on the eastern side of the church. Before reaching Homri there is a footpath on the right which takes you down the valley to the Natural Burial ground. There are way markers showing where the path goes. We explored the paths in the Natural burial ground, where there are lots of bluebells but no flowers yet, before returning via the same route and aiming for Peterston-super- Ely, reversing the route described in the first outing above.

We were walking through a wood and could hear a ewe calling loudly; was she hurt? But as we neared the edge of the wood, we could see a lamb in the wood with its mother and sibling on the path outside, but the lamb couldn’t find a way out. We tried to usher the lamb through the kissing gate, but it ran off in the opposite direction. We spent a while rounding it up again before it got trapped momentarily between the fence and a tree trunk; somehow it scrambled out but ran into the next gated field. After a few more minutes of its mother calling, (and us trying to round it up) it came to the gate and we opened it to let it through. Ewe ran off with her two lambs without a backward glance (and certainly no Thank you!), both lambs eagerly suckling when they stopped. This took quite a few minutes, and we were now ready for our lunch which we ate with a view to the north.

Sunshine helped make all these walks a joy and we saw our first butterfly of spring; a comma. A longer walk could be created by walking south to Tinkinswood and Dyffryn as described last month, or even extending the walk to Wenvoe. Walk 3-7 miles depending on route taken. Map 151

 



 

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