The Cardiff Chain Ferry & Ely River Subway
ARTICLES of GENERAL INTEREST
SOME NOTES ON CROSSING THE LOWER REACHES OF RIVER ELY
The Cardiff chain ferry and the Ely River pedestrian subway were two remarkable transport innovations that shaped Cardiff’s docklands, reflecting both the industrial growth of the city and the ingenuity of engineers.
The Cardiff Chain Ferry which gave its name to the nearby Ferry Road, operated across the mouth of the River Ely, linking Penarth Dock with Grangetown. Its origins lay in the rapid expansion of Cardiff’s docks during the 19th century. Penarth Dock opened in 1865, As coal exports surged, thousands of dockworkers needed reliable access between the residential areas of Grangetown and the industrial facilities on the southern bank of the Ely.
The ferry was powered by a small steam engine that wound itself along a submerged chain stretched across the river. The ferry occasionally sank during storms, highlighting the limitations of such technology.
For dockworkers, the ferry was a lifeline. Without it, the nearest crossing was a road bridge at Llandough, nearly a mile upstream. However, despite its usefulness, the ferry was vulnerable to bad weather and mechanical issues. These shortcomings prompted the Taff Vale Railway Company to consider a more permanent solution by the 1890s.
The shortcomings of the chain ferry led directly to the construction of the Ely River Subway, a pedestrian tunnel beneath the river. This ambitious project was approved in 1896, with construction beginning in 1897 under the direction of George Sibbering, chief engineer of the Taff Vale Railway.
The tunnel is about 400 yards long with the 325 yards under the river excavated using a Greathead shield – the same technology employed in London’s underground railways. At its deepest point, the tunnel lay only 11 feet below the riverbed, making construction extremely challenging. Floods during 1897 and 1898 tested the resilience of workers.
The subway was officially opened in May 1900. It had a diameter of 10 feet 6 inches, with a 6-foot-wide footpath and 7 feet 6 inches of headroom. Painted with enamel and cork to reduce condensation, and lit by electric bulbs, it was a modern marvel for its time.
Pedestrians paid a penny toll, cyclists two pence, and prams four pence. Horses were even reported to use the tunnel. Beyond serving commuters, the subway also carried gas, water, and hydraulic lines essential for dock operations.
The subway was decommissioned in 1936 when Penarth Dock closed, but it remained open to pedestrians. During World War II, it was repurposed as an air raid shelter when the docks were requisitioned by the U.S. Navy. After the war, however, neglect and crime tarnished its reputation, leading to closure in 1963 and bricking up of entrances in 1965.
Although both the chain ferry and subway are long gone, their legacy remains embedded in Cardiff’s industrial heritage.
The Ely Subway stands out as a pioneering piece of engineering in Wales. Though closed, it was inspected in 1991 during the construction of the Cardiff Bay Barrage and found to be in surprisingly good condition. Instead of reopening it, planners opted to build Pont Y Werin which now serves as the pedestrian and cycle link across the Ely. This bascule bridge which contributes significantly to sustainable travel was opened in 2010 at a cost of some £4.5 million.
Tony Hodge