Month: August 2021

The Penrhys Pilgrimage Way

THE PENRHYS PILGRIMAGE WAY – A PILGRIM’S ACCOUNT

The Penrhys Pilgrimage Way, from Llandaff Cathedral to the Holy Shrine of the Virgin Mary at Penrhys, is an old and important Medieval route which was re-created in 2020 and has enjoyed some good publicity. Having read about the route I decided it would be an ideal start to my year of pilgrimage. I will be walking four pilgrimages during 2021 to raise money for Housing Justice Cymru, a charity alleviating homelessness, and this short, 2-day, pilgrimage near my home would be the first. The route is well explained on the website ( http://www.penrhyspilgrimageway.wales/ ) where one can see both the map version and the written description of the route. I chose to print all the map pages but not the descriptions. I also used ViewRanger and bought a subscription to Outdooractive, an app that shows the route, section by section and puts a blue dot to show your current position in relation to the route. I have no doubt this is the easiest and most effective way to navigate the route.

I was pleased that my wife Isobel was keen to join me for this walk. We have done a good deal of long-distance walking before, so we were both fit, and we knew what to carry. People who wish to walk this route of 21 miles in one or two days need to be reasonably fit, and if they are not regular walkers, it will be best to do some training walks of 5-10 miles in the weeks before setting off. We decided to break the journey in Llantrisant which is not only halfway and convenient, but also as it was the customary resting place for pilgrims over the centuries. The route is in six sections, each of about 3 hours duration, so it can easily be split up over a number of weeks or weekends if necessary.

We always carry our clothing, food, and equipment whether for a 2-day hike or a 10-day excursion and aim to keep the weight to about 15 pounds with some water. We do not carry much more than a small water bottle each on most walks in Wales as water is generally easy to find in a stream or tap. We do carry waterproofs and we always walk with poles, though on pilgrim trails I swap my aluminium poles for a more traditional wooden staff. The walk could possibly be completed in a monk’s sandals, but we wore walking boots and that is the most appropriate footwear given the very mixed going underfoot.

As we worship at Llandaff Cathedral it was very pleasing that Canon Jan van der Lely was kind enough to meet us at the West Door of the Cathedral on the morning we left to send us on our way with a prayer and blessing. Many years ago, we had stood on those steps for photographs after our wedding and it was pleasing to ascend the steps again as we led off towards the River Taff to make our way to Radyr which marks the end of the first of six sections of the route.

The walk through the suburbs of Cardiff was interesting and varied. After passing the weir on the river, and the rowing club, we left the bank and climbed gently towards Radyr through a mix of tarmac and trails. Reaching Radyr Farm we saw that the blue dot on my iPhone app was veering off the red line of the route, so we retraced and saw the waymarker post with the direction arrow lying horizontally and hidden by weeds on the side of the track, we gather this has been reported. Once we were back on the trail, we passed the affluent homes in Radyr and soon found ourselves outside Radyr Golf Club. Like most golf clubs they welcome non-members who bring welcome cash to their tills. So, we sat on the splendid terrace in comfortable chairs and enjoyed the most excellent coffees with a fine view across Cardiff to the distant Bristol Channel.

The second stage was from Radyr to Groesfaen and now we had left the Cardiff conurbation behind and were often on muddy tracks. If only these rural paths were better managed with the insertion of lateral (Tyrolean) channels to stop streams running along the length of the tracks. We must have had our eyes closed as we looked for the essential small bridge across the busy M4 as we nearly missed it. A man we passed told us to look out for masses of flies and mud after the bridge; well, we did not meet the flies but the mud was certainly waiting for us. The route rises to Creigiau, and the day was becoming wetter as we hit the streets again, but our luck was in store because as the rain came down, we passed the Creigiau Inn on the corner and dived in for a welcome drink.

When the rain stopped, we left refreshed and ready for the short walk to the A4119 and the end of the second stage at Groesfaen.

It must be said that using the Outdooractive app it was not easy to select each part of the route. They do not link automatically so when reaching the end of one section it is necessary to search on the app for the next section by name – “Groesfaen to Llantrisant” for example and that will eventually come up. We now left Groesfaen and were glad to be off the main road with all the traffic and heading back to the fields and hills. Though this section is surrounded by business parks, main roads, and a quarry so it lacks charm. The route takes an odd and unappealing dog’s leg to take advantage of a bridge over the busy A473. Leaving the bridge, the signage was unclear, but we headed west along a good tarmac track towards lower Llantrisant before cutting up an easy rising path leading towards the castle. We missed the trail at this point, but it did not matter as we wanted to look at the castle. Next to the ruins was a stone bearing a plaque saying that archers from Llantrisant had fought at the battle of Crecy in 1346. We carried on to the Bullring in the centre of the old town which marked the end of the third section and the end of our day.

We were fortunate to have a friend living nearby who kindly put us up for the night.

The next morning, we set off from Llantrisant for Tonyrefail. The first miles were easy and pleasant walking across Llantrisant common, a Site of Special Scientific Interest established in 2000. Alas, we were disappointed by the amount of litter in the area; bottles and cans in the hedgerows and very different to the areas around Cardiff. After the common, we continued along a tarmac road until we crossed a stream on a new bridge at GR 049855 where the signs had not been moved. After that, we lost the trail around LLWYNAU farm and holiday cottages. After fence and gate climbing, we found the trail again and set off with relief.

Our next obstacle was an official route closure notice just over the bridge at GR 039866 issued by the planning department of RCT council. Happily, at that point, we met a lone runner who assured us that the route was perfectly safe but that it was physically blocked ahead which meant jumping over a fence. As we walked along it became apparent that this stretch of easy walking was on the route of an old railway. (Afternote – this was the old Ely Valley Railway which carried coal from Tonyrefail to Llantrisant) The route goes about 2 kms along the embankment and at the north end, shortly before joining a tarmac road at GR 034875, there is an old bridge over a culvert. A gap has appeared in the middle of the track and a careless walker might put a foot into the hole; it is barely big enough for a person to fall through. The hole has some red danger signs prominently displayed on either side and one can only wonder why the whole section was closed when the hole could have had a fence put around it? We found it easy to bypass the temporary closure and were soon on tarmac again. Our next challenge was the T junction at GR 024878 where there was no sign, but our phone app reassured us to turn north and at Tre-boeth farm we found waymarks to Tonyrefail. We were soon climbing the steps that link the residential streets on the east side of the town and we noticed for the first time the obvious signs of a socially deprived community.

The route barely touches the town; we had hoped to stop for a coffee, but we soon spotted a waymark leading us away over the hills towards Trebanog. This section of the route from Tonyrefail to Dinas is short and easy. Looking across fields to Trebanog we saw what looked like two flying saucers on the hillside, but as we approached, they turned out to be futuristic water reservoirs. The village was built on a mountain top for miners, but with the closure of the pits, there is now a high level of unemployment and social disenfranchisement in the community. As we descended to cross the A4233 we found a shop selling the cheapest sandwiches in Wales, but we were pleased to have them for our lunch.

To reach Dinas we had to make a modest climb up and over Mynydd y Cymmer from where we could look across the Rhondda valley to Dinas and Trealaw cemetery which seemed to be larger than the town itself and is one of the largest cemeteries in the Rhondda. The long descent to the valley floor is not well waymarked but we soon came out onto the busy A4058 and found the trail again near Dinas station where we stopped for lunch. This was a good place to rest as the sixth and last section of the

Penrhys Pilgrimage Way from Dinas to Penrhys starts with a steep and unforgiving climb which continues until the crest is reached near a radio mast on the top. Here there is a shelter, probably provided by the adjacent Rhondda Golf Club for use by the members in inclement weather. After the long steep climb pilgrims are rewarded with an easy flat track belonging to the golf club which leads north passing the clubhouse, where refreshments are available to non-members. Then the final furlong across the grassy ridge leads directly to the Holy Shrine of the Virgin Mary. The present statue, made of Portland stone, was erected on the site in 1953 replacing one that was removed during the reformation in 1538. We stood for a few minutes in the drizzle to think about the very many pilgrims who had arrived at this shrine before us. A short distance below is the Holy Spring of Ffynnon Fair which was reputed to have miraculous healing powers. We briefly paused to thank St Christopher for our safe passage before moving on.

On the afternoon of our visit, as it was raining, we did not linger but walked down the steep hill to Ystrad and the station where we boarded a train back to Llandaff where we had left our car. On the train, I had time to think of the many people who had made our pilgrimage possible. It is a well-designed route, and the supporting website is full of advice and information. We are most grateful to all involved.

 

Alun Davies, 25th June 2021

 

Postscript – If any reader would like to contribute to the charity Housing Justice Cymru – looking after homeless people in South Wales please donate at:

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/Alun-Davies-walks-Wales

 

 

Forest of Dean

Forest of Dean

 

We ventured into England (just) for this walk in the Forest of Dean on the Wales/England border, parking in a large layby opposite Broadstone Park, Staunton. Returning down the hill we picked up a track leading to the Kymin, a National Trust property with stunning views across Monmouthshire and a map showing what is visible. You can park here but the end of the walk would be a steep climb back up – not a good idea. There is a Naval Temple with inscriptions on all 4 faces. A group of girls from Surrey were sat on the grass psyching themselves for their Duke of Edinburgh treks; we wished them success.

We headed downhill through Beaulieu Wood and spotted a field with beehives where beekeepers were working in their protective clothes.

We took a broad path through High Meadow Wood picking up the Wysis Way, an 88Km route which connects Offa’s Dyke to Thames path. Sweet chestnut trees have grown here for centuries, some of them exceptionally large. The forest has deciduous and evergreen trees including oak, both pedunculate and sessile, and beech. Now we began to find some huge stones towering above us. We passed the Everard Oak, an impressive tree rising from the deep hillside and designated by the verderers of the Forest of Dean to John Everard in appreciation of his service as deputy surveyor.

We turned onto a footpath to our right climbing steeply and suddenly we were miniaturised by the Suck Stone, probably 40,000tons in weight. It has slipped down the hill and is widely regarded as the largest detached boulder in Britain. It is said that if anyone climbs the stone, they will be visited by the mischievous fairy of the rock who will grant them superhuman powers.

Continuing to climb we arrived at the immense Near Hearkening rock. It is an overhanging cliff of erratic stone, comprising quartz conglomerate and red sandstone. It is called Hearkening rock as gamekeepers used it to detect poachers, in search of the King’s deer, at night, the acoustics allowing you to hear a whisper – needless to say, we did not notice this as we were all chatting amongst ourselves. We stopped for lunch here, spreading out across the stone and under trees, with views across to Skirrid, the Black mountains and Monmouthshire.

Now we entered Lady Park Wood, it is an ancient broadleaf woodland untouched since 1944 – probably the closest to a primeval forest you are likely to find. The sense of quiet peace in this area was remarkable, my whole body seemed to sigh and absorb the wonderful energy of this place.

Staunton village’s name comes from Old English Stane (as in Stane street) and ‘Tun’ a stony settlement. Staunton is mentioned in the Domesday book as one farmstead and a waste or meend.

We soon spotted the village pound, originally built in the 17thC to hold stray animals. The pound keeper was responsible for the animals and extracted a fine for their release, a practice which continued until mid 20thC. The current pound was built to replace one on the site of the National school, which is now the village hall. At the Old people’s home nearby there were two fancy dress scarecrows, a carer and a resident, propped against the fence and looking down on us.

Opposite the late Norman, All Saints church are medieval buildings which were a granary, mill, windmill, alms house and the remains of the medieval village cross.

Now we walked through Hymens Meend, a more open area, and reached a trig point. Nearby is the Buck stone with terrific views into Wales. The stone is another monster; it was once a rocking stone but was dislodged by Victorian vandals, an inn keeper with actors from London. The stone was split into several pieces, but it was cemented back together in 1886 and secured in place with an iron bar; it no longer rocks. About six tons of chains, huge timbers and enormous cranes were used to ‘skid’ the stone back up the hill to its current location. At one time it was believed that the stone had been placed in its position by Druidic agency and may have been a druidic altar.

Skirting Staunton Meend, we had brilliant views south to England near Buckstone House and returned to the cars. What a wonderful walk. It had been a warm day but luckily, we had spent most of it in woodland and kept reasonably cool.

Walk 6.5 miles, 1200ft. Map OL14

 

 

Filming The Trick

FILMING THE TRICK

If you happened to have used Walston Road at the end of June you would have realized from all the activity and number of large vans, cars etc. that filming was taking place at a property in the village.

Yes, it was my house. They were filming part of The Trick, a 90-minute true conspiracy thriller starring Jason Watkins, Victoria Hamilton, George MacKay and Jerome Flynn.

A note APPEARED in my mailbox in the middle of May asking if I was willing to let my property be used for filming. They were seeking a Wenvoe location, and if so to contact them straight away. Although personally reluctant to the suggestion, my close female acquaintances persuaded me I couldn’t reject such an honour of seeing my house in a film. So, I gave them a call. Next day the location manager arrived to inform me what it would entail, and the filming schedule. They required the use of the lounge, a bedroom and the garden. I could remain in the property for the four days while filming took place, if I wished, or they could arrange hotel accommodation for me.

The next day, the producer, designer, plus another team member, arrived to view and take numerous photographs from various angles of every room in the house. A few days later I was informed that the property was very suitable and if I was still willing to let them use it, a meeting would be arranged to discuss details. A design team would arrive for four days before filming to set the scene; this would include repainting of the lounge walls to their required colour with the promise that it would be returned to the original state or painted any other colour I wished. (A pity it wasn’t one of the rooms which really could do with a repaint!). Any furniture and items removed would be placed in safe storage, and with all their equipment around a 24hour security would be provided during the filming period. Two days would be required to return the house to its previous state. A disruption payment would be made.

Mid-June saw all the production team members arrive on their tour of the locations being used in Barry, Cardiff and Wenvoe areas. Suddenly there were around 18 persons standing around in the front garden discussing points, those requiring seeing the inside were being shown around by previous visitors and the sound engineer was questioning me about spurious noises from the fish tank and the grandfather clock and could they be silenced.

All the local neighbours were contacted to inform them what was to take place and the times involved.

Set-up day and I was away on a few days holiday so my granddaughters, having been briefed on what I expected to happen, took charge of protecting the house and contents. Items were quickly bubble wrapped and packed away in boxes; large items of furniture disappeared for storage, anything to remain had a smiley face sticker on it. My house guardians became concerned about how much of my property was disappearing. By day two when I returned in the afternoon, the lounge was completely empty, and the painters busy at work. The chosen bedroom was empty and because a few shots were required of the actors in the kitchen and dining room these were being adjusted with all non-required items having already been packed away. Suddenly you discovered that any item you could normally put your hand on i.e. pencil, wall calendar etc had disappeared into a box somewhere. Day three and four were more relaxed, the scene setters were busily at work arranging chairs, books, flowers, dishes, pictures, hanging curtains etc. These people are extremely thorough in their arranging; as the film was about a true 2009 incident; everything had to look as near as possibly correct. Even a car was purchased to be placed on the drive.

Monday morning and it was all go. Lighting technicians, sound men, camera crews, make-up artists, catering corps etc. all started arriving; everyone seemed to know exactly what was required before filming commenced at 12.30. A mid-morning brunch was provided for crew members every morning; as the weather was fine all week it was served outdoors – a full English or fruit and yogurts if preferred. Tea and coffee were available all day. Just before the action commenced a limousine arrived with the star of the film; they were welcomed and escorted around the set to get their bearings. Even a police car appeared but this happened to be a part of the film set along with the policeman.

The public were very welcome to watch the proceedings but with Covid-19 restrictions in place if you wished to enter the set you required at least a temperature check and wrist band. Nobody, not even the actors, were exempt from this morning ritual.

Four long days of filming, late into the evening, then suddenly they were all gone.

Friday morning and the design crew were back removing all the set pieces they had used and slowly my own household effects reappeared; with great care everything was returned to its original position. In the house even the fridge magnets were back as before, everything moved had been carefully photographed and recorded.

Saturday and the finishing touches, including the repainting, and then the keys were returned. Apologies that the cleaners would not be able to attend until first thing Monday morning and when they departed you would hardly have known anybody had used the property to film for a week.

The BBC drama is due to be transmitted late October or early November. Worth a watch to see how many other local locations you can spot, including the village school. Although I had worries at times about my property, they were unfounded. A good experience. Would I do it again? Ask me in a year’s time.

Ian Moody

 

 

Barbecue Season Is In Full Swing!

HERE COMES THE SUN

AND THE BARBECUE SEASON IS IN FULL SWING!

Unless you’re one of those die-hards who grill all year ‘round the chances are you’ve been firing up the barbecue and looking forward to a whole summer of savoury burgers, succulent steaks, and perfectly grilled veggies. About 273 million are expected to be fired up in the UK this summer. Grilling has brought families and communities together since the first humans cooked food over a fire about 1.8 million years ago. In 2009, researchers even found mammoth ribs in a 4-ft. cooking pit that appeared to date back to 29,000 B.C. The area was also covered with conch shells, which made archaeologists wonder whether the barbecue had been a “surf-and-turf” meal.

The word “barbecue” came into English via 16th century Spanish explorers, who adopted the term from the Arawak Indians of the Caribbean, to whom the barbacoa was a grating of green wood upon which strips of meat were placed to cook or to dry over a slow fire.

USEFUL TIPS

Lighting your grill: a great little trick is to simply scrunch up a piece of paper towel, cover in vegetable oil and then light in the middle of your coals. It burns hotter and longer this way and will kick start your coals.

Cooking meats: remember each cut needs to be cooked differently. Generally, the higher the fat content the higher the initial heat to cook it.

Cleaning the grill: Spray with vinegar, leave for about five minutes and then scrub clean with some scrunched-up foil. Easiest of all, soak a grill in a basin for around an hour. Rinse off and it will be good as new.

BBQ BLUNDERS

A study of more than 2,000 adults by Aldi discovered the country’s three most common BBQ blunders.

  • Although we haven’t heard them arrive in Wenvoe…yet, being forced to call the fire brigade
  • Serving burned or undercooked food
  • Dishing up meat products to vegetarians

 

BARBEQUES AND THE GUINNESS BOOK OF RECORDS.

Barbecues also feature in the Guinness Book of Records.

The largest attendance at a barbecue is 45,252 people at an event organised by Estado de Nuevo Leon (Mexico) on 18 August 2013.

The longest barbecue measured 8,000 metres, created by the people of Bayambang (Philippines), on 4 April 2014. The barbecue was made up of 8,000 grills connected to each other, each measuring 1 m in length, 58 cm in height and 21 cm in width.

 

 

 

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