Category: Footsteps

 

Blorenge – To start we drove to Keepers pool, (currently named after the nearby gamekeeper’s house though it was original Forge pond). It is also known as Llyn Pen-ffordd-goch, the pool at the head of the red road, after the sandstone grit of which the road was constructed. A grey day deteriorated into a foggy one as we climbed and we had difficulty seeing the car park. Standing on the edge of Keepers pool we couldn’t see the road let alone the countryside we would be exploring. We had intended to walk our circular route in an anti-clockwise direction heading straight up the mountain but decided to reverse it in the hope that the weather cleared before we gained the summit.

We walked north close to the road peering ahead for the footpath which would take us across the road and slightly downhill to follow Hill’s tramroad. Horse drawn trams containing pig-iron travelled the route from Blaenavon ironworks to Llanfoist and here the tramway contours around the Blorenge mountain, our destination.

The water from Keeper’s pool supplied Garnddyrys forge and rolling mill which, in its heyday, produced 300 tons of wrought iron a week as iron bars, rails and plates. It operated for almost 50 years until production was transferred to the new site at Blaenavon and Garnddyrys closed in 1860. We passed the remains of the forge master’s house and a large mound of dark material. This is a heap of slag which has been shaped by a century of wind and rain. Sadly its ‘head’ has fallen off in recent years so it no longer resembles a ‘ prehistoric Monster’.

Continuing we followed a section called Rhiw Ifor towards Govilon we still had little visibility but now and again the clouds parted and we glimpsed the scenery around us and at times extensive views across the open plains to the north and east. Alongside the tramway we spotted a low tunnel; this was probably constructed to protect the tramroad from slippage due to large quantities of slag produced by the forge.

We continued northeast around the Blorenge towards Pen-y-graig farm. The drifting fog allowed brief glimpses of Sugar Loaf and it wasn’t until we had passed the farm that we could see the Skirrid with its hidden summit. Travelling south we continued to contour around Blorenge until we arrived at Punchbowl. This was an eerie place in the mist, woodland rose over a steep sided hollow and a pond was surrounded by lots of moss. We sat down to eat part of our lunch and were treated to the sounds of sheep bleats echoing around us. It sounded like people at times and it’s easy to see how disorienting this would be if visibility was any worse. Lucky for us the cloud was lifting all the time and we could view the whole area by the time we moved off.

Our route continued south a short way before we turned north once again to start our ascent of the Blorenge. As we climbed the mist cleared at last and we walked along an edge for a while to enjoy extensive views of the countryside and Abergavenny, the Skirrid towering over it. At the summit the sun shone at last and we could see for miles. Taking a rest amongst the rocks we ate the rest of our lunch appreciating the panorama.

Now we headed southwest towards Blorenge aerials and Cefn y Galchen. There is a memorial to Foxhunter, a horse which appeared at the Royal International horseshow jumping in the King George V cup 1948, and winning gold at the 1952 Helsinki Olympics. Lt Col Harry Llewellyn chose Blorenge mountain as a final resting place for his horse. A car park nearby allows easy access to the summit of Blorenge mountain and Keepers pool, suitable for anyone unable to undertake a long hike.

From here it was a gentle walk west back to Keepers pool. The ground we covered marks the end of the South Wales coalfield as it is formed from Millstone grit, a hard rock that signified to colliers that they had reached the end of the coal measures. Millstones were manufactured in this area from this stone. The rock was affectionately known as ’farewell rock’

Arriving back at Keepers pool we had superb views of the surrounding hills in total contrast to the thick fog which had greeted us only a few hours earlier. We had walked 7.25miles with a 1200ft climb.

Alexander Cordell’s 1959 novel ‘Rape of the Fair Country’ brought people’s attention to the historic importance of Blaenavon. The publicity surrounding the book and sale of the film rights encouraged Blaenavon council to retain the ‘crumbling ruins’ as a possible future film set (unfortunately the film was never made). In the 1990s consideration was given to making Blaenavon a world heritage site. Alexander Cordell commented ’If this could be achieved it would be a fitting epitaph to the people who died making this small town an industrial giant. All that the people of the past have to commend them for the sacrifices they made are the dirt monuments that they left behind.’ Blaenavon Industrial Landscape was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 2000. It covers 3290 hectares and about 45% of it is within the Brecon Beacons National park. (Map OL13)

 

 

 

 

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Gower

 

As we drove from the main road to the car park ½ mile north of the Heritage Centre just past Parkmill, the heavens opened. Luckily it stopped as we parked and remained sunny for the rest of the day. We walked south down the road and across the main road to pick up a footpath following the valley to Three Cliffs Bay. Sandy paths meander along a stream, passing the ruins of Pennard castle and Pennard Burrows. Rather than go onto the beach we turned west through the dune system and saw lovely views of the Bay.

Heading northeast we crossed the road again and walked over a grassy area towards Long Oaks. The footpath here wasn’t signed and we checked with a local that it was where we thought, as it goes through a garden. A lovely garden too with a homemade dolmen, large pond and weeping copper beech tree as well as a ladder stile into the farm next door. This stile had obviously not been used for some time, the rungs were in good order but the top was rotten and the other side was totally overgrown. Having successfully beaten our way clear, we soon arrived in a field damp underfoot and containing a small herd of horses. Soon the countryside was very similar to the Vale of Glamorgan; we commented that you’d never know you were in the Gower – it could be anywhere in South Wales. We continued north and joined the Gower Way before reaching Cillibion.

The Gower Way is a 35 mile route inaugurated in 1998 by the prince of Wales. It runs from Rhosilli covering the length of the ancient lordship of Gower and ending inland at Penlle’rcastell. 50 way stone markers, inscribed with the Gower Society logo and individually numbered line the route.

We stayed on the Gower way until we turned east about ½ mile north of Cillibion through Cillibion plantation and onto a road at Llethrid bridge. A London bus bedecked for a wedding passed by as we crossed the road and took a footpath through Park Woods. This proved heavy going at times and we were relieved when we joined the main track. Emerging into a more open space we found a restored burial chamber. Now we walked into the campsite near which we had parked. At 10.30am there was hardly anyone around but now there was a substantial scout camp with lots of other people spread around the site which seemed to have very limited facilities.

We changed out of our boots and drove down to the Heritage Centre for welcome refreshment. At the end we had completed 8.5miles and 800ft. Map OL13.

 

 

Skirrid Fawr

We parked in the National Trust car park at the foot of Skirrid and as we set off the first few drops of rain started to fall. A well defined footpath leads in north and north easterly directions up Skirrid, the last outcrop of the Black mountains. You pass through Caer wood and skirt Pant Skirrid wood coming out onto the open hillside. Climbing along Beacons Way, we separated as the fitter people got ahead, and before long were drenched by torrential rain, hitting any bare skin like needles.

A lady wearing trainers, T-shirt and trousers (no waterproofs) passed us at a good speed, followed not long after by a man, similarly clad, and a dog. The rain plastering their clothes to their bodies. Having donned our waterproof trousers we continued and met the lady coming down with the man’s dog. That’s strange we thought! The lady had had a hip replacement 6 months earlier and walked up Skirrid daily as rehabilitation! Her husband and dog were accompanying her at a slower pace.

Looking back we could see the sun over the Bristol Channel and crossed our fingers that it would catch up with us by the time we got to the top. It did. In glorious sunshine we walked through the stone jambs that mark the entrance to St Michael’s Chapel on the summit (the chapel has totally disappeared). We had 360o views of the surrounding hills bathed in threatening black clouds, heavy rain (in England) and a scattering of sunshine. Dramatic! And definitely worth the climb.

Our route now took us east towards the Arwallt, a steep drop and then we were crossing moor land, the remainder of the walk being generally flat. We turned south east towards ’The West’ (of England presumably) and south west towards Llandewi court. On the lower slopes of the Skirrid we could see ‘LIONS‘ cut into the landscape. A road sign on a lane stated ’Wrong Way for Walnut Tree’. I guess there had been a few mishaps.

Continuing south we turned east at Pen-y-flos-goch, towards The Court, then south to Great Blaen-coed. We spent some time on this stretch trying to find our footpath which had been blocked and diverted but with no new signposts, the stiles were not maintained very well either and we got frustrated at times. There was a good example of a gypsy caravan though. Now we turned west towards Green Moors and northeast towards Pontgarreg farm and hence along the road to Brynygwenin, back to the cars. A 6.9miles walk and 1300ft. Map OL13

 

 

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Circumnavigation of Partrishow Hill

We started in Llanbedr on a sunny and humid morning, parking near the church and walking a short stretch of road to turn right onto a river side footpath . We climbed in a south easterly direction and followed a path across the road at Gudder, travelling east parallel to the road through Dyffryn which we could see below us. After reaching Llwyn-on we turned left onto a road towards Pen-y-bair. At this point many of us realised that we had been lulled into false expectations by the walk description thinking that circumnavigating a hill would be easier than climbing it. True we were going around the hill but places en route were higher than Partrishow hill!

At Pen-y-bair we turned north towards Partrishow crossing a small stream. We came upon a holy well where people had left offerings and soon after arrived at the remote mountain church of St Issui, Partrishow. Knowing that we had a climb ahead of us we took a short stop here and found a Duke of Edinburgh group with the same idea.

St Issui was a 6th C saint and this church was dedicated to him in about1060.The inscription on the font(circa 1050) reads ‘Menhir made me in the time of Genillin’. A figure of ‘Time’ on the wall is a skeleton bearing an hourglass, scythe and spade. There is also a beautiful oak Catholic rood screen dating from 16thC, one of the finest in Britain.

After some light refreshments we set out to tackle the hill which would take us to the highest point of our day, taking a path that led us towards Crug Mawr(550m). After touching the trig point we relaxed over lunch admiring the 360o views. It was amazing, the day was so sunny and clear it was as if we could see forever. Lunch was slightly longer than usual to allow us to enjoy peace and quiet of this special place.

Now we headed along Blaen-yr-Henbant continuing in a south westerly direction and skirted the next hill at 498m before starting to lose height quite quickly as we turned south towards Hen Blant. From here we followed a stream for a while and descended to Llanbedr village. Here we crossed the Grwynne Fechan river and returned to our starting point.

A lovely walk, with good paths, on a glorious day we had enjoyed fantastic views of the surrounding hills, including Sugarloaf, almost all day and walked 8.2miles and 1550ft. Map OL13

 

 

The Llanfrynach Horseshoe – a Wenvoe walkers sponsored walk in aid of prostate cancer

As this was a sponsored walk we were promised sponsorship and paying to participate. Five people set out from Llanfrynach but a 6th person joined us later after watching the Lions play the All Blacks. We parked as recommended outside the public toilets, provided by the local community they were spotlessly clean, supplying not just soap and water but also hairspray and air freshener in the Ladies. The village itself is very pretty – full of small terraced cottages with pretty front gardens.

From the off the route was uphill, south along the along a lane then after crossing a stream we headed up the hillside in a south easterly direction, at this stage it was pretty steep! We crossed Clawdd Coch, followed a path which kept us below the top of Bryn, and proceeded along Gist Wen in a south westerly direction.

Luckily the weather was excellent for walking – warm (about18oC) but with a good breeze to keep us cool as we climbed. Once we reached the ridge we could see cloud clinging to the tops of the mountains, Pen y fan occasionally coming into partial view as the clouds shifted.

Continuing to climb we came to a junction of paths, Gist Wen meets 3 other paths – Graig Fan Las ahead, and 2 others heading east and south west. All of a sudden we were amidst several groups of people and then as we proceeded south west, we came across a sign ‘Brutal Events’ and saw many more people going in the opposite direction to us, including one man who looked as if he was on his last legs. Talking to some of them we discovered they were on a 50 mile walk!

Passing along Craig Gwareu we crossed the Beacons way and our path gradually turned to a northerly direction past Craig Cwm Oergwm and on to Fan y Big (719m).

At times we were surrounded by cloud which wafted away to give beautiful blue skies and then came back, occasionally shielding us from the sight of a steep drop. The paths were excellent, having been reinforced with stone to protect the surrounding land.

Continuing Northeast the route took in Cefn Cyff, the going was easier as we started to descend. Clouds dispersed and the views were clearer but still extensive. As the gradient increased across grassland at least one person (me!) adopted a zigzag route to save their knees. We used a short stretch of road at Rhiwiau and then resumed our north easterly progress back to Llanfrynach via Tynllwyn and Maesderwen, walking through fields of long grass. We thoroughly enjoyed our refreshment at the local hostelry and sat for longer than usual recovering from quite a hard walk. At the end we had completed 10.5 miles and 2200ft. Map OL13.

A big Thank you to everyone that sponsored us £500 was raised for prostate cancer.

Garway Hill

The walk started in Kentchurch near a lodge gate and we were going to be following part of the Herefordshire trail, which meanders the Wales/England border. Nearby Kentchurch Court is a stately home which has been in the Scudamore family for over 1000 years. There is a deer park plus extensive gardens and which are open to the public during summer months. Ralph Scudamore (recorded in the area in 1042) is mentioned in the Doomsday Book, a Norman stonemason he was employed by Edward the Confessor to build the castle in Ewyas Harold.

Travelling north we passed through farm land. Two quite isolated glamping huts were on our route, each had a main hut containing sleeping and dining spaces, with a separate bathroom across a stretch of wooden decking. Surrounded by woodland they looked cosy and even had a BBQ area.

We spotted a vineyard, walked through a huge field of oil seed rape (gone to seed), a crop of peas and then the distinctive heaped up rows of a potato field.

Next we found an outdoor gym and one person volunteered to demonstrate his skills – particularly impressive when walking across narrow branches.

We arrived at a road and travelled along it towards Cross Llyde and Bagwyllydiart in an easterly direction cutting off a corner of the Herefordshire trail. Rejoining the trail we passed under Garway hill crossing Garway hill Common in a southerly direction towards White Rock.

At White Rock we turned northwest in the general direction of Kentchurch. We took in a view of the River Monnow where we passed a footbridge – a plaque in the centre of the bridge remembers Marius Gray, a chartered accountant, who served on the boards of the Daily Mail and a number of health charities he was made CVO in 2011.

An avenue of limes lined the road to a pet crematorium at Barton hill with a delightful stream nearby.

This was a relaxing late spring walk through lovely countryside. Views in this area are excellent the Skirrid, Sugar loaf and the Black Mountains are all visible from Garway hill and, even though we didn’t climb to the top, we enjoyed the panorama.

We had achieved 7¾ miles and 1100ft.

 

 

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Llanbradach and Ystrad Mynach

We started in Llanbradach on a cloudy morning, after a night of thunderstorms, but the forecast was for a dry day. We crossed the railway and climbed through the woods to the west of Llanbradach. On the side of the path were large benches made from stone, placed there by the Llanbradach Community Council some of them having dedications to late council members.

As we climbed further a mist started to surround us and then we entered the clouds. Fir trees, soaked from heavy rain last night, edged the path and brushed against us as we walked. Even though we wore gaiters, trouser legs were soon wet and to some extent our arms. Still it was pleasant to walk in the mist in warm weather.

Emerging onto the open common we found rubbish dumped in many places spoiling the area. A field of cows was invisible until we were very close to them but plants were clear – a lovely rowan in full bloom, and gorgeous yellow gorse and irises.

A wide track was packed with stones and after we’d walked a while we heard a lorry coming – it was bringing hardcore up the track and dumping it to lengthen the reinforced section.

Until now we had resisted putting on our waterproofs as we were sure the weather was improving and we’d soon dry out but suddenly the rain fell heavily so we put jackets on. Our route headed northwest across Nant Cwm Sarn. To the east there were slag heaps appearing and disappearing in the gloom, and then the clouds parted a little and we could see a pair of pyramid shaped hills.

The rain hadn’t eased off as we continued across the moor following a wall in the hope it would protect us a little. Water had begun to trickle inside gaiters and down into our boots as the wind blew harder. It was time to accept that the weather was set for the day and don our waterproof trousers.

Our path continued through a high sided green lane so we decided to stop and eat lunch while we had some shelter from the elements. We had passed our highest point of the day and looked forward to less climbing in the second half of the walk as we continued east towards Ystrad Mynach and then down the Rhymney valley back towards Llanbradach.

Unfortunately, the footpath down the valley was severely overgrown with brambles and bracken and after making slow progress we decided to try and climb above the blockage. This took a while but proved to be a good decision. We approached another green lane, access was again difficult but we climbed down onto it, now our way was clear and we made good time back to Llanbradach. At last we were below the cloud and could see the river in the valley and lakes which looked like fishing ponds.

We had walked 9 miles and climbed 1200ft. Apart from the overgrown stretch it was a good walk but the views, which would have been good, were totally hidden by the clouds an unlucky day but still very enjoyable.

 

 

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Parc Seymour and Wentwood Forest

Today our walk took us from Parc Seymour to Wentwood northeast of Newport.

There was a cold wind and it felt like winter again. But there’s only one word to describe this walk ‘Bluebells‘! We headed southeast and on the road passed a neat woodland, a donkey and a group of beautiful horses. Then a little later we spotted a couple of shire horses ploughing in a field of bluebells. Now we followed the lane northeast and a field of bluebells appeared on our right stretching into the distance. We couldn’t help but stop and take photos and Misty (a dog) frolicked. We walked amongst them for ages, they were so thick that even the lane was covered in them and we were unable to walk without treading on them. We emerged into woodland which had been cut back hard and replanted.

Heading west we passed Hill farm and then went northwest towards Cross Green. Now picking a zigzag trail travelling generally westwards through Wentwood forest.

We soon found a tree known as the ‘Curly Oak’ an old tree which has split down the middle so that you can walk through its trunk.

The woodland was filled with English bluebells so that we were surrounded. Trees of beech and oak were in new leaf and the lime green and yellowy tones provided a perfect counterfoil to the purple blue of the bluebells. We just drank the colour in, wonderful. Unfortunately because it was cold there was little scent from the bluebells, just a waft now and again.

We came down alongside Bertholau Graig in a southerly direction and as we came out of the wood could see the Bristol Channel in the distance. The colours of the trees here were reminiscent of autumn there was so much yellow. Our route now travelled west until we met a road where we turned south.

We passed an old farmhouse with a dilapidated VW van and as we continued saw at least 20 abandoned old cars and farm vehicles on the property. We entered a large field where a herd of bullocks took some interest in Misty but eventually ran off uphill. Back at Parc Seymour we saw 2 carved wooden chairs on the green one dedicated to the AD and the other AD2000.

We had walked 8½miles and 1100ft. Map 152/OL14

Tretower

We started at the Cadw site in Tretower on a lovely Spring morning.

Tretower is the site of a medieval fortified manor house and castle. The Picards and Vaughans were influential Welsh families who created sumptuous accommodation reflecting their high status as Welsh gentry. The Vaughans left in the 18thC and Tretower Court became a working farm. It is an interesting site and Cadw have created a suite of rooms as they may have been in 1470.

Tretower is on the Agincourt Wales trail which tells the story of the people and places across the region that played a role in Henry V’s famous victory. It starts at Trecastle and visits Brecon, Tretower, Abergavenny, Raglan, Monmouth and St Briavels before ending at Caldicot.

Having seen Table mountain and Sugarloaf in the distance we set off walking south east towards Cwm-gu and then northeast to Cwm. We were soon high over Tretower and had an excellent view of the castle.

On the moor land we followed the Beacons Way and soon realised why it’s so called as we spotted Pen y Fan and its neighbours to the west. After reaching Cwm we headed generally northeast towards Llewenau Draw and Llewenau.

We were delighted to hear a cuckoo at 3 separate times and then spotted it flying across the valley, confirmed as the sound of its call came from behind us now. Unusually the hawthorn trees in this area had mistletoe growing on them.

A flock of sheep (mostly ewes with their lambs) were grazing ahead of us on the path and as we arrived they kept moving ahead of us despite the fact that there was a large open hillside above. Eventually most of them moved to the side but still some continued until we stopped for lunch when they ‘gratefully‘ stopped for a good munch of the grass.

 

 

At lunch we sat on the hillside and gazed at the vast range of mountains around us. Then we noticed a large bird swoop into the field below; it had a distinctive red glow and black markings on its wings; the forked tail confirmed that it was a red kite. We watched as it swooped to ground level and back up again, all the time working its way down the valley. Wow!

Continuing towards Llewenau we could see the Dragonsback mountain ahead of us and as we got closer spotted the iron hill fort which forms the dragon’s head. We turned southwest towards Cil-helyg.

This walk had been designed with the aim of visiting an ancient oak tree which had been found last year. According to the ancient register of trees it is possibly the oldest in South Wales. Now as we walked along a country lane most of us walked straight past it while distracted by a horse in the opposite field. The tree is huge (its trunk must have a diameter of about 12ft) and awe inspiring.

At Cil-helyg we turned north for a while before heading towards Cwmdu and picking up a path leading in a generally southerly direction towards Tretower.

What a wonderful walk full of the awe which nature inspires.

The walk was 7.5miles and 1400ft. Map OL13

 

Margam Park:- We parked next to the lake just outside Margam Park and made our way along the main track towards the deer park. Marshals stood near a stream, there was a run across the park and the runners were expected to go through this stream not once but twice; good job we were only walking!

We followed a woodland edge emerging onto the Ogwr Ridgeway walk and entering more open countryside we saw people doing the run. One circuit involved carrying a tyre uphill and over a high A frame before returning downhill. Continuing upwards, more obstacles appeared including a water slide (that looked good fun until you slid off the end onto rough ground) and a high-sided box. Far below we could see the starting point.

As we climbed we turned back to see Port Talbot steel works in the distance, a herd of deer were outlined on the hill in the foreground. There were a number of places where food had been put out for the deer and invariably nearby were ‘deer toilets’ trudging through one of these was not a pleasant experience!

Turning right we entered the forest to the north of Moel Ton-Mawr and spotted frog spawn aplenty – in any available water. Below was a clearing in the woodland where scrambler bikes raced, we stood well clear when they passed us . We continued in the forest for some time turning west northwest to cross the Ogwr Ridgeway walk.

We were almost at the high point of our walk as we emerged to the edge of the wood, a keen wind blew and it started to rain heavily. Icy needles hammered into exposed skin and many of us put up umbrellas for a bit of shelter. As the rain stopped we made our way into the wood for lunch but there was no shelter from the wind; it was like winter again.

Now we were making our way, on good tracks, generally downhill and westwards to Craig Cwm Maelwg and southwest to Crugwyllt-fawr. There were good views of the steel works and we could clearly see flames as well as great plumes of steam, one of which seemed to be the face of a plump faced man. At one point a large amount of hay was piled with old farm machinery. Loose hay was caught in wire and blew in the strong wind making an unusually picturesque fence.

Our track led to a farm and a friendly woman chatted to us . We headed uphill to the ruin of a chapel, and then down to the cars passing spring daffodils and primroses. [The walk was 8.2 miles and 1350ft. Map 165/166]

Tylorstown Tip:- It was a glorious sunny day. The ancient parish of Llanwonno is thought to date from the 6th century when St Gwynno founded the church here. We set off making a quick visit to the grave of Guto Nyth Bran (Griffith Morgan), he was able to run 7 miles to Pontypridd and back before the kettle boiled. Every New Year’s eve his legend is celebrated in the Nos Galon race from Mountain Ash.

We headed southwest through woodland to emerge into open countryside with Tylorstown tip (an old mining spoil tip) standing proudly to our right. We headed to it and a few people opted to wait at its foot while most of us climbed to the summit. Here we were joined by scrambler bikes roaring up its steep sides. The views down the valleys were excellent. As we descended, one of the scramblers followed us down a steep gully and we scrambled up the side out of his way.

Now the group continued in a north-westerly direction through woodland to Carn y Pigwn where we turned east to arrive at the river feeding the Clydach reservoir. Followed the river southeast and gently downwards to the reservoir where we stopped for lunch. Continuing down the valley we could hear water below us and took a slight detour to descend to a waterfall (Pistyll goleu); very refreshing.

Climbing back to our path we took the track along the course of the river now travelling northwest until we found a footpath on our right leading directly to the road back to the cars (and the pub): some took a short cut along the road while the rest of us continued into St Gwynno forest turning southeast in the direction of Mynachdy.

There were wind turbines on the hill and we had some fun taking photos with the blades apparently emerging from people’s heads. We passed a farm with sheep and new born lambs as well as young bullocks, goats and a llama. We climbed past fields with expectant ewes and ewes with their lambs.

Now it was a short way back, passing above the official scrambler site, to the cars where our friends greeted us. [We had walked 8.25miles and 1400ft. Map 166]

 

Twmbarlwm

The day dawned misty but the weather forecast was ‘clear by lunchtime’ as we left Wenvoe. We started in Fernlea near Risca, climbing some steep streets and walking past allotments. We found the route to the footpath was blocked so headed back the way we had come to take a detour through housing (and more very steep roads) and 2 children’s play areas. Skirting a new development we headed into countryside and northeast towards Pant Yr Eos reservoir.

On reaching a minor road we turned northwest in the general direction of Twmbarlwm. The flattened bodies of 8 frogs were spotted along a ½ mile stretch of the road no doubt caught by local traffic during their migration to breeding sites. As we climbed visibility decreased until we were in a thick fog. Now we were totally reliant on maps and GPS as we could see no more than about 50 yards. Spotting stiles across a field was impossible but a good track was clear once we arrived at Twmbarlwm Common. Twmbarlwm was invisible so we walked slightly further than necessary along this track now heading north. We turned west along another track, suddenly a dark shadow loomed over us in the fog. We had been walking uphill all morning and now we followed an excellent path which spiralled up Twmbarlwm.

Twmbarlwm is an Iron Age hill fort, which lies at the heart of the territory of the Silurian Celts. With commanding views over the Bristol Channel it must have played a large role in the 25 years of war which the Silureans fought against the Roman invaders. The impressive earthworks were constructed around 500BC, long before Rome invaded. The raised circular mound is a ‘motte’ built during the 12th or 13th century by the next invaders – the Normans. It must have supported a timber built castle, and the rest of the wider enclosure would have been the ‘bailey’ to protect the horses and live stock of the soldiers.

The magnificent views (on a good day you can even see the two Severn bridges) were totally hidden by the fog, so we admired the stonework in the footpath and walked to the highest point. Descending we headed northwest and ate our lunch when we reached the road where the ‘Raven Walk’ (a 12 mile 3000+ft circular walk) crossed our route. As we sat, a raven cawed high up in a tree – he was barely visible but stayed until we resumed our walk.

Now we shared a short but steep section of path with cyclists. Through Coed Medart we took a good track and as we continued to descend suddenly came out of the fog and could see the valley below us. The cycle track crossed our path and some daredevil cyclists came careering down the hill and disappeared out of sight down the opposite slope – bit too exciting for me. One cyclist had hit a rock and his front tyre had a deep ‘v’ stamped into it – he had his bike upside down and was attempting a repair.

Our return journey was a pleasant meander down good tracks in a southerly direction until we reached the Brecon and Monmouth canal.

This stretch of the canal is the ‘Crumlin Arm’ and runs for 16km from Cwmcarn to Newport. Opened in 1796 from Crumlin, it was worked until the 1940s. Over Greenmeadow bridge lie the shattered bodies of a number of miners who died in the Blackvein colliery disaster of 1st December 1860. An explosion of firedamp (an explosive coal gas found in mines) and the effects of afterdamp(a suffocating gas left after an explosion of firedamp) killed 142 men and boys working the rich vein of steam coal known as the Blackvein. Many of the dead, however were taken by their families to be buried in their home towns – in England. Locals refused to work the Blackvein as the pit had a reputation for high levels of firedamp, the lethal price of the prized steam coal.

The elegant curved bridges crossing the Crumlin Arm were built to withstand the gentle clip clop of horses’ hooves rather than the rumble and thunder of heavy motor vehicles. Afraid that the bridges would collapse, the Great Western Railway Company which took control of the canal in 1880, installed large diamond shaped warning signs to stop overweight vehicles in their tracks. Darran Bridge and others on this section of the Crumlin Arm now have extra protection having been awarded the status of ‘listed building’.

Cwmcarn houses a visitor centre built on reclaimed colliery land in the 1970s. It is known for Forest drive, bicycle trails and panoramic views and has become a tourist attraction.

An easy walk along the canal covered the final stretch, allowing our tired muscles to recover a little. Arriving back at the cars we had covered 8miles and 1500ft. Map 152

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Uskmouth Nature Reserve

We parked at the RSPB nature reserve, which is in the Gwent levels near Nash, on a very cold but sunny morning. There was still ice on the ground as we set off at 10a.m. We went east across fields and then northeast towards Nash passing close to power lines. Walking around Nash and then across the road we passed under another two power lines to return to

the road and head northeast to Henton farm where we spotted some gorgeous calves in a barn and geese gesturing at us from behind a wire fence.

This area is called Swaplands covering 2138 acres it contains Uskmouth reed beds, salt marsh grasslands, Goldcliff lagoons (saltwater lagoons where waders nest in spring and early summer) and the foreshore – mudflats connecting the other areas and providing feeding areas for ducks and waders. There is a network of drainage ditches, ‘reens‘, all dug by hand across Swaplands.

Now we turned southeast towards Goldcliff and its picturesque 14th C church which has a plaque recording the great Bristol Channel flood of 1606/07. We continued west along the estuary. It was lunchtime and we found a bird hide, offering shelter from the biting wind and large enough for each of us to look out at the marsh spotting swans in the estuary. Very luxurious compared to our usual lunch settings.

A short stretch north took us to Moorlands where there was a wood carving of a pair of boxing hares, about 6ft high. We headed west and then southwest across fields to the sea wall.

Beautiful views of the Severn estuary greeted us with the low winter sun piercing the clouds. From the sea wall can be seen the remains of Putcher baskets, traditionally made from hazel rods and willow plait, they are set out in wooden ranks. They trapped salmon at high tide to be retrieved by fishermen at low tide.

Following the coastal path we came to the East Usk lighthouse, one of two either side of the river Usk at the Severn estuary. Built in 1893 by Thomas Williams it is still operational and forms part of the sea wall. We took a brief diversion on a floating pontoon into the reed beds – an interesting sensation.

Ahead loomed the power station with its many power lines radiating inland. The land from Goldcliff to Uskmouth was originally covered in ash from the power station. In 2000 the wetlands reserve was created, removing the ash and re-landscaping the site, to mitigate the loss of wildlife habitat in the Cardiff Bay barrage area.

Soon we returned to the RSPB wetlands centre for tea. The flat walk covered 8miles, our steepest climb of the day being the ramp up to the bird hide. Map OS 152

 

 

 

 

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