Category: Footsteps

Craig yr Allt

It was a misty morning as we travelled to Tongwynlais. Driving to the top of Heol y Fforest we parked at a picnic spot feeling pleased that we had climbed a fair way before starting the walk.

The mist thickened as we headed roughly west, following a track that took us to the sculpture trail in the woodland above Castell Coch. The sculptures are wooden portrayals of nature, trees, birds, wild animals and even insects; an excellent place to entertain children. We took our time examining each piece. Unfortunately the signage on them is showing the effects of weathering and some were difficult to read. I particularly liked a seat whose back was the outstretched wings of two birds with this sign:

 

 

‘These creatures are gone from the forest now

But the ones who live here today can be found

There’s badgers and dormice and buzzards I’ve heard

Goshawks, owls and other woodland birds!’

Now we headed for the Taff trail travelling north on our way to Craig yr Allt where we were promised views across to the Garth and Castell Coch and Cardiff to the south. Taking a path east we had a steady climb across open grassland which was pretty muddy in places. At the top we disappeared into fog and imagined the views we were meant to enjoy by looking at an App which named hills as you pointed a phone in their direction! There was something cosy about being wrapped in a blanket of fog, as it created a great atmosphere (and we knew exactly where we were).

Not long after we started to descend visibility cleared enough for us to see around us. The green-yellow catkins of a birch tree looked cheerful in the gloom. Black sheep were difficult to spot as they sat under a copse of trees about 100yards from us; it was only their white faces that gave them away.

We stopped for lunch in a field, sitting on tree trunks under beech trees and relishing the peaceful atmosphere. As we ate we glanced back, noticing that the fog had lifted on Craig yr Allt and we joked about walking back up to see the view (which was still swathed in mist).

We made our way to the Forest Tea Rooms, catching a brief glimpse, through the trees, of Castell Coch. At the tea rooms we enjoyed comfy seats and welcome refreshment. We returned to the cars via a leafy track above Heol y Fforest.

The walk was 7 miles. Map 151

 

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On a sunny morning in late October, we parked in Clydach and we walked east along the Swansea canal, with reflections of trees in its still waters.

The canal was built to serve collieries, iron works and copper works in the Tawe valley. The first section opened in 1796; its final length was 16½ miles and included 5 aqueducts to carry the canal across the river Tawe, at Pontardawe, Ynysmeudwy, Ystralyfera and Cwmgiedd. One section, the Trewyddfa canal, was privately owned by the Duke of Beaufort who charged a toll.

We passed the heritage centre in Coed Gwilym Park, where metallic outlines of three figures stand. The towpath is easy walking and we soon found another ‘sculpture’, a bicycle marooned on top of a tall tree trunk (the towpath is a cycle trail). A little later we spotted a rhododendron bush in full flower.

The river Tawe soon came into view and we walked a short distance between the river and canal. We crossed a bridge and after following the canal for a while, headed uphill away from Trebanog towards Gellionen. A flock of handsome goats in a field next to the footpath were very friendly coming up to the fence and standing on their hind legs to eye us up whilst another (the nanny?) stood/sat on a nearby picnic table.

As we continued we enjoyed extensive views of Swansea Bay with thick fluffy white clouds on the distant horizon. At Gellionen there is a chapel ‘for the use of the society of protestant dissenters’. It was erected in 1692 and rebuilt in 1801 when an ancient carved stone, part of a Celtic cross (from 8th century Llan Eithrim church), was set into an outside wall. The stone is now in Swansea museum. As we left the chapel we went through a gate with a sign which said ‘Welcome – Croeso please take care of this stunning place’.

We continued northwest crossing moorland and passed close to (but didn’t see as although only 50 yards from the footpath it is a difficult place to find) Carn Llechart. Believed to be about 3500 years old, it is one of the finest examples of a stone ring cairn or burial chamber in Wales. It has 25 low stones set close together and leaning outwards with a shattered stone lined cist (coffin) towards the centre.

 

Now we headed west and downhill alongside a stream towards the Lower Clydach River. We entered woodland which was shaded and cool. At the river we scrambled across rocks or sat on grassy hummocks to find a spot to relax and eat our lunch.

Cwm Clydach RSPB Reserve established in 1987 is mixed broadleaf woodland with a wide variety of bird species present all year. These include Buzzard, Red Kite, Green and Great Spotted Woodpecker, Nuthatch, Tree Creeper, Bull finch Dipper and Grey Wagtail. Otters have returned to the river, a sign of how much cleaner it is.

Until 1962 much of Cwm Clydach was a working coal mining valley. The largest colliery was opened in 1863, known locally as ‘Nixons’ it was one of the main employers. It produced 115,000 tons of saleable coal a year. It was a rock top colliery but as it was virtually gas free, the boilers to raise the haulage engines were underground, as was a blacksmith’s shop, which was rare in a colliery.

The path through Cwm Clydach was covered in warm brown leaves and the sun shone through the trees which had dropped most of their leaves. We passed the remains of many abandoned buildings, some with streams tumbling over them – a reminder of the area’s industrial past. We passed the village of Craig-Cefn-Parc. Its name is thought to mean rocks behind the enclosure. Craig probably refers to small quarries that were in the area. Cefn Parc (meaning at the back of the enclosure) is the name of an old farm at the top of the village – its name suggests that it was at the edge of a Manorial Lord’s enclosure. Even now it is the last farm before you reach the open common.

We continued along the river through housing and passed a large weir. Walking over a bridge over the river we could see the lower Clydach Aqueduct where the canal joins the lower Clydach River and the River Tawe. Now we were back alongside the canal and returned to our cars, passing signs of the restoration work which the Swansea Canal Society are undertaking.

Our walk was 7.7 miles in length with 700ft of ascent. OS Map 165.

 

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Clyne Valley

We parked in lower Sketty, Swansea near the recycling centre and headed generally northwest through Clyne Valley Country Park. The land near the path was once a rubbish tip and before that a spoil heap from the Clyne Valley Colliery (closed 1921). Coal mining was the first industry in the valley starting as early as 1305.

Fallen leaves covered the path at our feet and sunshine brightened up the day occasionally.

We walked along the route of an old railway and passed under a bridge. Meandering through Clyne wood we found a stream and the sealed entrance to a mine. We spotted a fallen tree covered in frilly bracket fungi and another long tree trunk covered in ferns.

As we neared Clyne park magnolia trees with huge leaves occasionally appeared. A few trees retained their autumnal colours. At Black Pill we saw Clyne castle (built by a millionaire in 1860 by extending a house) and entered the park. Walking to the top of the park, we sat on benches in an open area facing the sea. There was a cold wind blowing and in the distance we could see the wind whipping up the surface of the sea. Several of us jumped up quickly to catch sandwich wrappers and even hats before they disappeared. What a fabulous spot to sit on a warm day but we ate quickly and moved on.

Streams meander through the park and the planting is similar to Cefn Onn in Cardiff but more extensive. A red Italian bridge sits across a stream. We arrived at the seafront and then made our way back to the cars. The castle and grounds are owned by Swansea University.

Our walk was 6.75 miles, 650ft climb. Map 164.

 

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Clytha Park and River Usk.

The notice board at the National Trust car park in Clytha Park offers two walks 2.5 or 5.5 miles. Combining them created a walk of 7.75 miles with a 500ft climb.

We set off on a late autumn morning; the weather was grey but dry. A path led us into farmland where two vehicles were ploughing the land, one turning it over the second producing tilth. Footpath signs were good and at one point giant arrows were painted on two trees where the path went between them. We crossed a couple of fields of mangel-wurzels and passed a white house with a veranda. The path followed an avenue of beech trees and an area of parkland with cows grazing.

Southeast of the car park is Clytha castle with its circular corners and squat towers.

We continued past a wood towards Clytha Hill with distant views of Sugar Loaf. The trees glowed with their glorious leaf colours.

At Coed y Bwnydd secreted atop the hill is possibly the best preserved Iron Age hill fort in Monmouthshire with human activity stretching back 2000 years. The fort’s defensive banks and ditches are clearly visible. They helped to protect the inhabitants from attack by other tribes and animals such as wolves and bears. Roundhouses have been excavated here. The main sounds today are birdsong but 2000 years ago you might have heard axes chopping, people chattering (there was some of that today as we passed through), sheep and hens and the clunk of metal being worked. Wild boar or deer might have been roasting on wood and charcoal fires, their aromas filling the air.

We continued to the village of Bettws Newydd, finding a fascinating wall with large chunks of stone of different sizes in amongst horizontal flat stones. The church porch had a coffin stretcher on its rafters. A piece of wood had a poem written on it (by N.N. in 2009):

‘The Bettws Yew

The star which shone on Bethlehem shone on this noble tree

It stood here still in Norman times when knights claimed their victory

As King Charles lost his head this tree made growth anew

Thanks be to God that we still have our Bettwys Yew.’

We headed west towards the river Usk, passing through farmland where we saw calves, trees heavy with mistletoe (common in Monmouthshire) and an old tree which had grown around a piece of metal fencing entirely engulfing it. After passing Trostrey Lodge we came to the riverside and followed it back to the car park. Map OL13.

 

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Kilpeck Church

We parked at Kilpeck church, a few miles south of Hereford, and went straight to the church. It is a 12th century building with wonderful original features. Corbels (89 of them) decorate the edge of the roof; the images cover a wide range from a bird pecking a smaller bird, Celtic knots, Sheelagh-na-gig, hound and hare, serpents and some strange creatures which are difficult to identify. Then there is the entrance door. Although there is no porch it is in an amazing state of repair. The stone prights and arch, of the doorway, are covered in carvings including dragons and the tree of life. The door itself is solid wood with huge metalwork holding the door together and bolted through the door to giant hinges. A lot of the furniture within the church is Victorian but the architecture is 12th C – 14thC. There is a minstrel’s gallery; its origin is a mystery as the staircase leading to it is Victorian but it may be Elizabethan or Jacobean. The former seems likely as that was when music in churches became more sophisticated and wooden galleries at the west end of churches became popular.

The church probably survived so well because of the village’s unfortunate history. The population was devastated by famine and the Black Death in the 14thC. Hence the church remained small and unknown for many centuries. When it was renovated in the 19thC the architect, Lewis Nockalls Cottingham, was sensitive to the Romanesque original design. There are windows designed by Pugin.

The area around Kilpeck had been known as Ergyng when it was a small Welsh kingdom. Later it became part of the Welsh marches and was renamed Archenfield. In 1086 a timber castle was built to establish Norman rule in the area. Although a stone castle replaced the original, little remains of Kilpeck castle sat on a mound to the west of the church.

Now we set off on our walk travelling in a generally southerly direction towards Marlas and then Bagwyllydiart. It was a lovely late autumn day and the countryside soft and rolling made a very pleasant stroll. The views were extensive but now and again mists rolled across the hills creating fascinating scenes.

At Bagwyllydiart we turned northeast, going towards Orcop Hill. This stretch of the walk was mainly on a quiet road and we could see the hill ahead of us. Two of us stopped to buy tomatoes from

a roadside stall and then waited to watch a shrew cross the road in front of us (attempts at a photo were thwarted by the speed with which it darted for cover). Suddenly we were way behind everyone else and it wasn’t until they stopped at Orcop Hill that we caught up.

At lunch we arranged ourselves over huge pieces of a tree which were beside the road and wondered whether it had come down in a storm blocking the road.

Walking through Mynde wood we found large holes which must have been made by badgers, we carefully skirted these. Emerging from the wood we could see The Mynde ahead of us.

 

The Mynde was a Royalist stronghold in the Civil War. It was home to the Pye family from the 1350s until about 1709. Walter Pye was attorney general for Charles I. His second son, Robert Pye, had different religious affiliations which decided his fate. He was beaten by a Roman Catholic neighbour with a billhook and died a few days later. The house is mediaeval with a grand Georgian facade. Apparently it has always been a private residence and is promoted as a film location. According to the Herefordshire Times ‘It has a 1,180 acre estate and parkland passing through a seven-acre lake’.

Now we turned northwest and were heading back towards Kilpeck. We passed through more beautiful rolling countryside. In a field we came across a large flock of sheep that ran from us and covered the horizon. We passed a few pretty cottages and arrived back at Kilpeck church.

Distance walked 8 miles and 750ft climb. OS Map 189

 

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Another hot summer’s day found us parking in Whitchurch off the A40 near Symonds Yat. A short walk across the A40 by a road bridge and there was a footpath which brought us to a lane heading south. All too soon we found ourselves climbing which seemed a little odd as we were making our way to the River Wye in order to cross it via the ferry. Arriving at Ferry Inn we were disappointed to find that the ferry wasn’t working but our contingency plan was to walk along the western bank of the river.

Imagine our delight when after walking about ½ mile down river we found that the second ferry opposite the Saracen’s Head was about to leave the shore on the other side. This is a rope or hand ferry joining Symonds Yat East and West. Ferries like this were vital, in the past, linking the communities on both sides of the river. We paid our £1.20 a head and boarded; the river was so low after the extended dry spell that a box had been placed on the boat to ease stepping down to the ferry. The ferryman sang as he took us across in memory of ‘the singing ferryman’ who died in 2011.

On reaching the other side we went through the large car park at the foot of Symonds Yat Rock. Peregrine falcons can be seen at Yat Rock from early spring. Now we were following an excellent footpath and cycle way alongside the Wye with trees providing shelter from the summer’s heat.

The brooding presence of hillforts built by Iron Age tribes, commanding wide vistas high above the Wye, reinforces the feeling that this has been border country for millennia. Tourists discovered the beauty of the Wye in the 18th century when it became fashionable to take the Wye Tour and find inspiration in the picturesque viewpoints. After a while we came to the chain bridge. Six people at a time can cross. We waited patiently each side taking turns, the second half of our group found that 5 cyclists joined us when we were halfway across and the bridge started to bounce a little alarmingly – not good for those of us who have problems with heights.

Passing a campsite we met lots of families cycling and walking in the sunshine. Delicious blackberries at the edge of the site were quickly devoured. Even

though we had crossed the river, we were on the eastern side of the river again as there is a loop here. Now we were headed north.

After about a mile we turned right up a steep hill through woodland and just before reaching King Arthur’s Cave turned left out into the full heat of the midday sun and continued upwards to a hillfort. Lunch at the top of Little Doward hillfort gave us views to the southeast with the river far below us out of sight.

Towering 724ft above the River Wye, with steep cliffs on three sides the Little Doward provided the ideal site for an Iron Age hillfort. It was improved only by the construction of a single massive rampart around the enclosure. Recent archaeological exploration has found that people here lived in circular platform houses. They worked animal bones, making items like toggles and dice, which were found during a dig in 2009. The limestone bedrock has enabled the preservation of bone here.

We descended the hill, circling to reconnect with our original path and travelling northeast. Soon we were at King Arthur’s cave. Victorian and Edwardian naturalists were fascinated by the Doward Hills. This large limestone cave held a particular draw. Excavations reveal that people have used this cave for 20,000 years. Prehistoric animal bones – of hyena, rhinoceros, bison, lion, bear, reindeer, horse and giant deer – were discovered 11 feet below the caves present floor. Large openings allowed those of us who were interested to explore the caves without ducking, some had torches and further caves appeared as we continued. Did King Arthur really come here, we wondered.

Continuing downhill via steep lanes we were soon passing through Great Doward and found our way back across the road bridge to Whitchurch.

This was a lovely walk much of it easy – especially the ferry ride – 7½ miles and 1200ft climb. A small delicatessen supplied us with cups of tea and the bar of an Indian restaurant had beer so we were all happy.

 

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Mynydd Troed –

Parking at the Dragon’s Back Inn, we were about to tackle the hill we had seen when circumnavigating Llangorse Lake. We headed north around the bottom of the mountain skirting Pengenffordd. Grassed paths all the way made the going easy and coming around to the western side of the hill we started to climb – fairly steep but not too difficult. As we climbed Llangorse lake came into view to the west.

Turning a corner the wind lashed at us and the temperature dropped a few degrees – quite pleasant after the warmth of climbing. Looking into the valley below a large stretch of land stood out, a lighter green than the rest.

On reaching the trig point (609m) we stopped for a breather. The Dragons Back ridge was in view and mountains stretched far to the south. It was now an easy walk along our ridge. There had been a fire up here; the majority of the ridge was brown and it was still smoking in places. The grass path was largely undamaged but heather and winberry bushes were all gone leaving ash in their wake. At one point flames were spotted and someone stamped them out. It was clear that although the surface was charred there was still heat in the ground and burning could be hidden below. We wondered whether it was a controlled burn, the result of hot weather or arson. We also joked that the dragon of the Dragon’s Back had breathed fire over to Mynydd Troed.

At the end of the ridge we descended a zigzag path through lush grassland and picked up a road through Waun Fach before reaching the end of the hill and turning north to follow the lower reaches of the ridge. We followed a very pleasant path for over two miles that felt like an old drover’s road but that is unlikely as it is between the A479 and a small country road.

An 8 mile walk and 1700ft climb was followed by excellent tea and a special treat of homemade cakes (delicious). As we finished our drinks the heavens opened – the weather forecast was right to the minute! Map OL13

 

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It was a bright, sunny morning as we parked at the visitor and watersports centre in Coed y Paen near Pontypool and Usk, just a few miles north of Newport. Our walk was to follow ‘the Reservoir Trail’ which circumnavigates Llandegfedd reservoir. The route is possible because Welsh Water have made two sections of their land permissive paths; the remainder of the trail is public footpaths or roads.

The reservoir was constructed after Cardiff Corporation was granted permission in 1958 and it was completed in 1968, covering 434acres it has a capacity of 5,300million gallons. Only 3% of the water is rainfall the remainder is pumped from the river Usk. Llangedfedd reservoir has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its importance to over-wintering wildfowl and because of this the reservoir is closed to all activities from 1st November to 1st March each year. Its northern edge has nationally important grasslands which are managed as hay meadows encouraging biodiversity. Flowering plants include several orchids and yellow rattle as well as orange foxtail grass and adders tongue fern.

From the car park we followed the tarmac path down a steep slope to water level, passing 5 red pictures on posts, if you look through the viewing rectangle at the side of the path all these magically line up to produce a single image of a pike. The British record pike (46lb 13oz) was caught here in 1991.

We crossed the dam enjoying the peace and quiet of the water in the morning sunshine (though we had to avoid some cars travelling towards us). At the far end of the dam we turned left and immediately climbed into the shade of woodland, where we spotted our first foxgloves of the season. After about 1km we passed a bird hide on the edge of the lake and then followed an inlet of the reservoir, which is a breeding ground for otters. We were not lucky enough to see any.

At the end of the inlet we turned north passing the entrance to Trostra Farm, their metal signpost drew admiration from all of us and gorgeous purple clematis in full bloom grew nearby. Continuing through woodland the men of the group helpfully held up a large fallen tree so that the rest of us could pass under it (in reality it was set in its location).

Going through Twyn y Cryn woods, we came out at the top of a field. We stopped here for lunch, even though it was only just after noon, as there were good views of the reservoir and surrounding landscape. One sheep in the field showed a little interest in us but the rest continued grazing.

Near Yew tree farm a late Bronze Age hoard (the Glascoed Hoard) was found and is on display at the National Museum of Wales in Cardiff. Soon after we passed another bird hide which is in the area that is closed in the winter. From here we continued south enjoying open views of the lake and spotting a fisherman wading in the water. There were stretches through woodland that were very muddy and slippery underfoot but it was dry in the more open ground. Woodlake Park golf course was on our left and a number of wooden seats were available for anyone wanting to relax.

Despite the warm day, we arrived back at the visitor centre at 1.30pm – one of the earliest finishes for one of our walks, having walked just over 6 miles and climbed 650ft. This was partially down to the good quality of the paths but also the pace set by those in the lead!

We took advantage of the refreshments on offer at the award winning centre. It was named ‘Welsh Building of the Year’ in 2016 by the Royal Society of Architects.

This would be an excellent walk for anyone new to walking who wants to get out into the countryside, throughout the walk there are fingerposts directing you around the reservoir trail. Parking at the centre is free and the facilities very good. The area was bustling with families and people enjoying the many water sports available at the reservoir. Map152 or use walk leaflet no 7 ‘The Reservoir trail’ created by Llanbadoc Community Council.

 

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