Uskmouth Nature Reserve

 

Uskmouth Nature Reserve

We parked at the RSPB nature reserve, which is in the Gwent levels near Nash, on a very cold but sunny morning. There was still ice on the ground as we set off at 10a.m. We went east across fields and then northeast towards Nash passing close to power lines. Walking around Nash and then across the road we passed under another two power lines to return to

the road and head northeast to Henton farm where we spotted some gorgeous calves in a barn and geese gesturing at us from behind a wire fence.

This area is called Swaplands covering 2138 acres it contains Uskmouth reed beds, salt marsh grasslands, Goldcliff lagoons (saltwater lagoons where waders nest in spring and early summer) and the foreshore – mudflats connecting the other areas and providing feeding areas for ducks and waders. There is a network of drainage ditches, ‘reens‘, all dug by hand across Swaplands.

Now we turned southeast towards Goldcliff and its picturesque 14th C church which has a plaque recording the great Bristol Channel flood of 1606/07. We continued west along the estuary. It was lunchtime and we found a bird hide, offering shelter from the biting wind and large enough for each of us to look out at the marsh spotting swans in the estuary. Very luxurious compared to our usual lunch settings.

A short stretch north took us to Moorlands where there was a wood carving of a pair of boxing hares, about 6ft high. We headed west and then southwest across fields to the sea wall.

Beautiful views of the Severn estuary greeted us with the low winter sun piercing the clouds. From the sea wall can be seen the remains of Putcher baskets, traditionally made from hazel rods and willow plait, they are set out in wooden ranks. They trapped salmon at high tide to be retrieved by fishermen at low tide.

Following the coastal path we came to the East Usk lighthouse, one of two either side of the river Usk at the Severn estuary. Built in 1893 by Thomas Williams it is still operational and forms part of the sea wall. We took a brief diversion on a floating pontoon into the reed beds – an interesting sensation.

Ahead loomed the power station with its many power lines radiating inland. The land from Goldcliff to Uskmouth was originally covered in ash from the power station. In 2000 the wetlands reserve was created, removing the ash and re-landscaping the site, to mitigate the loss of wildlife habitat in the Cardiff Bay barrage area.

Soon we returned to the RSPB wetlands centre for tea. The flat walk covered 8miles, our steepest climb of the day being the ramp up to the bird hide. Map OS 152

 

 

 

 



 

Aberthaw, Fontygary and Rhoose

 

Aberthaw, Fontygary and Rhoose

We started at the Blue Anchor car park, Aberthaw, on a morning heavy with mist, turning to fog in places. We headed back up the road taking the first left and then turning towards the sea. The Aberthaw power station was on our right and lakes to our left, there was no visible flora in January but it was atmospheric in the mist. On the lakes we could clearly see ducks and egrets and a large bird in the dim distance. The lime kilns on the opposite bank were perfectly reflected in the still waters.

The route was east along the coast, staying at sea level and then climbing to the top of the cliff. We soon saw a huge rock fall. Thank goodness at this point the footpath wasn’t near the edge of the cliff! Nearby was a sign ‘stay away from the edge of the cliff – rock falls possible’. (The South Wales Echo had an article later stating that the cliff had been inspected and the footpath declared safe.)

Skirting Fontygary Bay we walked towards Rhoose point. The sculptures here are worth a visit despite erosion due to their exposed position. One, a compass took a little thought until we realised the directions were spelt out in Welsh. Rhoose point is the southernmost part of mainland Wales and is marked by a giant stone needle in the midst of a stone circle.

We continued to Dams Bay and then headed inland to Rhoose, walking around the perimeter of the airport. A new fence had been erected, making for rough ground in places and plenty of mud!

The footpath was a little difficult to find on a new housing estate but was in excellent condition and led to muddy fields. Glad to reach the road at Nurston we headed north towards Fonmon castle. Soon arriving at the pond in Fonmon we wondered why we’d eaten our lunch before reaching the benches here.

Now we followed the road back to Aberthaw and the Blue Anchor for refreshment. We had walked 7.5miles and climbed 600’. Map OS151

 

 

 

 



 

History of a Wenvoe Farmer

 

THE LIFE AND TIMES OF TOWYN WILLIAMS

Local farmer Towyn Williams was born April 2nd 1926 at Ford Farm, Llancarfan, and died August 14th, 2016 at Whitehall Farm, Wenvoe.

I got to know Towyn and his wife Audrey very well when designing alterations to Whitehall farm and from that time I used to regularly call in when walking my dog up Pound Lane. Listening to Towyn revealed a surprising and fascinating picture of the adventurous lives of the Williams family.

Towyn mentioned an article that had previously been produced in the Llancarfan Society magazine written in 2005 by Towyn and his wife Audrey with local historian Phil Watts. It was so interesting that I felt readers of What's On would enjoy reading of Towyn's exploits. This article is largely extracted from 'The story of a (Llancarfan) village lad'

Towyn's father, Tom, was from a farm in the Pontypridd area. With just £10 in his pocket Tom left the farm in 1906 to go to Canada. He went to Bristol, bought his boat ticket (no passport was required) and sailed off to Montreal. From there he took a train to Moose Jaw travelling in a goods wagon with a wood burning stove in the corner on which he and fellow travelers all cooked their food. On arrival at Moose Jaw he still had £4 left in his pocket.

Tom was one of the first Homesteaders in Canada in 1906. After 4 years he owned 340 acres in the middle of the prairie at Reading, Saskatchewan. The significance of 340 acres is it is half a section, a section being a square mile  680 acres.

He ploughed with oxen, took grain by cart to Moose Jaw, a distance of 60 miles, which took a week, and sleeping under the cart at night. The sale of the grain paid for groceries to take back home and seed for the next year.

Towyn’s eldest brother, Bryn, was born 1915 in a 'sod shack' (constructed with turf) on the prairie. The family returned to Wales in 1921 and Bryn worked on the farm at Ford before joining Cardiff City Police Force. During the 1939-45 war he became a pilot serving in the Royal Canadian Air Force. He died when his bomber crashed in 1942.

Towyn's brother Edward was also born on the Canadian Prairie in 1916. He farmed Tynewydd Farm (near the Cwm Cidy, Port Road in Barry) and had a milk round in Barry. He later farmed Home Farm in Michaelston-le-Pit with his father. Edward, a member of Llancarfan Young Farmers, was considered to be a good cattle judge, and represented Wales in a team from the Home Counties, to Australia.

Brother Lyn, born in 1922, farmed at Ford Farm, Llancarfan until 1971 when he moved to a larger farm at Basseleg, near Newport, where he could expand his milking to three times a day.

Sister, Margaret, also born in Canada on the Prairie, died in Llancarfan in 1925 aged 16, buried in the local churchyard.

Towyn's father, Tom, died while on holiday on a cruise ship on the St. Lawrence River in Canada in 1964. Towyn's mother, Olive, died in 1951 and both are buried in Llancarfan Churchyard.

Towyn attended the local primary school in Llancarfan, the teachers were very strict. Miss Connie Griffiths (infants) had the habit of stamping her foot to call the class to order. Miss Morfydd Thomas, from Brynamman near Swansea taught the middle class of 8 and 9 year olds. George Frank Davies, the headmaster, taught the senior class – the scholarship class for secondary education. He was very strict and had a cane in the cupboard behind his desk, but he rarely used it. Hanging over the piano in 'Gaffer' Davies's room was a framed Roll of Honour of those who were killed in the 1914-18 War.

Unannounced visits from the health visitor and the school dentist were a slightly frightening experience for children in those days when children were not used to being ''looked at''.

For several years while Towyn was in Llancarfan School his father supplied milk to the school – half pints for the older children and a third of a pint for the young ones. In those days free milk was paid for by the education authority. Towyn's job was to transport the milk from Ford Farm and to take the empties home using a homemade cart with bicycle wheels which he left at the bottom of the hill while he was in school. There were no school dinners, sandwiches brought from home were ate in the classroom.

At this time there were several homeless characters around Llancarfan who worked for their food and a ' few bob ' for beer in the Fox and Hounds and slept in the barns of the farms he was working at. Most notorious of these was Tom Shanklyn, 'Shanks', who found himself homeless after World War 1. The 1901 Census shows Thomas, aged 10, living with his mother Elizabeth, sister Ann 12, his brother William, both boys shown as cattle boys at local farms.

Tom, a stocky man wounded in his right arm during the war, told stories of working on a farm where they had pigs '6 foot tall – Big Yorks up to my chin' he would say.

One day a local farmer visited Tom at one of his 'abodes' while he was frying bacon. The farmer was offered a rasher which was refused – he didn't like the way Tom's nose was dripping over the pan!

Another homeless 'gent' was Fred Ashton, a tall upright man reputed to have attended Taunton College. A member of the well-known bakery in Cardiff, he ended his life by hanging himself from a branch of a tree on the lane connecting Moulton to Walterston.

Another character was 'Oswald the Watercress Man', who made his living picking and selling watercress in the Llancarfan area. He lived in a shed on the Broad Close Lane and on the door he put 'Meteorological Observatory' He was a good weather man.

Tom Price was one of these local expert craftsmen. Born at the Black Horse public house, on the opposite side of the road near the Fox and Hounds. Although he needed crutches to get around he was able to lay hedges for which he was paid 4 pence (old pennies) a perch (5½ yards) and spread manure by hand. His most treasured possession was a photograph of him laying a hedge for a local farm. He was believed to have been able to drink 12 pints without going to the toilet! They don't make 'em' like that anymore!

 

(To be continued next month)

 

 



 

February’s Books

Crooked Letter, Crooked Letter

by Tom Franklin

Smalltown Mississippi in the 1970s sets the scene for this story of an unlikely friendship between two young lads, Silas and Larry. They are from very different backgrounds of class and race, and neither of them fits in with the locals. They form a special bond; but this is tragically fractured when a local girl disappears without trace. Larry is suspected; but in the absence of any evidence or confession he is not charged. Instead he lives the life of a recluse, always under suspicion, whilst Silas becomes the local constable.

Then, decades later, there is another disappearance.

Some of the Page Turners were impressed with the plot, and the insights into poverty and racism of 70s Mississippi life. Others of us felt the story to be weak.

Tom Franklin’s style of prose gives a good feeling of place and does capture the sights and sounds, smells and heat of the deprived little town.

However we Page Turners could not agree about this book, and our scores ranged between 2 and 8 (averaging approximately 5).

Some of us do recommend it as a good easy read.

 

 

 

 



 

January’s Books

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There was no set book this month so members had free rein, some more successful than others. The diverse choices ranged from:-

* The power of the dog by Thomas Savage ( a Vintage Classic ) – powerful.

* A Dictionary of Misunderstanding by Jackie Copleton. – Excellent

* Hons and Rebels by Jessica Mitford – Fascinating Autobiography

* Anna Karenina by Tolstoy – a Masterpiece

* Death of a Busybody by George Bellaris. (set in a small village!!!) – Typical goings on !!

 

All the above came highly recommended by the individual Page Turners.

There were however two books which were not favourably reviewed :

* The Luminaries by Eleanor Catton – why was this a Booker Prize Winner?

* The Fat chance Diet Book- A very light read

A stimulating evening was had discussing the merits and otherwise of all these books. So we are off to a good start for 2017.

 

 

 

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Tai Chi Beginners Class

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Tai Chi is excellent for stress relief and teaches us to move from our centre, with slow flowing movements which encourage us to use a wide range of muscles in a relaxed way.

In Wenvoe we practise Tai Chi Yang style, a form with 3 parts – which I correlate to childhood, adulthood and mature adulthood. When tai-chi-01you start you learn the 1st part and build up confidence before moving on to the later stages.

I plan to start a Tai Chi beginners’ class this month on a Wednesday evening at about 5.30pm. I keep beginners in their own class so that we can progress as a group. This is likely to be the last beginner’s course I take in Wenvoe as I plan to retire once it is complete after more than 20 years of teaching.

If you would like to join us please contact me – Annie on 02920 593570.

 

 

 

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Along the Gower Coast

 

 

Gower

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Saturday dawned extremely wet and miserable so we all agreed to postpone our walk until Sunday when the forecast was good. We were very glad when Sunday arrived bright and sunny. It was early September and we were off to the Gower. Our walk started in Murton and took us to Southgate via Caswell Bay.

Setting off from Murton in a south-easterly direction we walked through Oldway, noticing some of the road names seemed to relate to its history: e.g. Lime kiln lane and Long Acre. There were long thin strips shown on the OS map and we guessed that this was how the area had been divided for the people to grow food.

 

Continuing we came into Bishop’s Wood, a local nature reserve with well developed paths. Near its centre we came across a roundhouse; based on a medieval design it is built from locally harvested oak and ash (the predominant trees in Bishop’s wood). The river that created this valley still flows underground and can still be found surfacing on Caswell beach. We also emerged here, it was lovely to see the sea in the sunshine and we lingered briefly to make use of the facilities on offer. We walked in a westerly direction across the beach and now we were on the coastal path following it to Brandy Cove and then Pwlldu Bay (one of the many Welsh ‘Blackpool’s). Late summer flowers were spotted including mullein. The coast below was covered in craggy rocks which had attracted quite a few sea birds, cormorants being the most distinctive.

cowsAt the beginning of Pwlldu Bay the path climbed up to the road leading to High Pennard and we followed it although the beach was deserted and looked very attractive. We came into open countryside and decided to stop for lunch just before Hunts Farm on a raised grassy area where we had open views across the bracken clad moor down to the sea in the distance. A few people walked below us as we rested and several people rode past on horses nearer the sea. It was surprisingly cool while we were stationary so we didn’t linger too long over lunch.

We resumed our route towards Hunts farm and then Southgate, turning inland near Fox Hole before reaching Southgate. There was some impressive

housing in this area and we admired many of the buildings. We headed north east, coming across some waterlogged land and were grateful for a bridge in one place where the water was particularly deep. A field had cows with their very cute calves, some of which showed little fear as they nudged a feed bucket on the other side of a gate from us. At Hael farm a large marquee was being taken down and there were some lovely begonias in big pots.

We followed the course of a stream through a wooded valley. We had good paths to begin with, then it became very muddy and finally the valley floor was littered with large rocks covered in moss – like a riverbed, quite difficult to negotiate! There was a steep rock face to one side and we spotted a cave; further on the water disappeared underground into another cave.bridge

We were travelling north towards Kittle when we came across a notice: ‘Footpath… registered in the riverbed – is usually walkable when dry. However a large sinkhole has opened up which is dangerous to approach as the surrounding surfaces are highly unstable and there is no room to pass safely.’ Slightly worrying but a quick bit of route planning by our expert map readers and some information from a fellow walker who had just negotiated a diversion and we were on our way again, travelling generally north through Bishopston.

Arriving at the edge of Kittle in glorious sunshine we passed 2 pubs, The Joiners Arms and The Valley. We didn’t stop but continued along a path to the side of the local school, which had lots of colourful wild flowers growing at its entrance. On Providence Lane we passed a very remote and unwelcoming house – there were even bars on the windows. Returning to the community centre in Murton, we looked at the pump and well behind it. We retired to the Plough and Harrow and relaxed in the late sunshine with a drink but wished we hadn’t eaten our sandwiches – the meals appearing from the kitchen looked scrumptious. We had walked 7.75 miles and climbed 750ft. Map 164.

 

 

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Tai Chi

 

 

TAI CHI in WENVOE

 

tai-chi-02In Wenvoe we practise Tai Chi Yang style, a form with 3 parts – which I correlate to childhood, adulthood and mature adulthood. When you start you learn the 1st part and build up confidence before moving on to the later stages.tai-chi-01

Tai Chi is excellent for stress relief and teaches us to move from our centre, with slow flowing movements which encourage us to use a wide range of muscles in a relaxed way.

A number of people have asked me when the next Tai Chi beginners’ class is happening. I plan to start one in mid-February 2017 on a Wednesday evening at about 5.30pm. I keep beginners in their own class so that we can progress as a group. This is likely to be the last beginner’s course I take in Wenvoe as I plan to retire once it is complete after more than 20 years of teaching.

If you would like to join us please contact me – Annie on 02920 593570.

 

 

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Latest Walks Reports

 

 

St Brides Major

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We started at St Brides Major and walked north-west across Beacons Down on a bright Sunday morning. As we approached the river Ogmore we could see a long line of runners coming towards us and then sharing our route. In places it was pretty muddy underfoot following Saturday’s rain and we didn’t envy them having to run through it.

They were participating in the Merthyr Mawr Christmas Pudding race, which is a challenging multi-terrain six mile race. The pudding race was started in 1990 by Bridgend AC who organised the race for 10 years, handing over to the Brackla Harriers club in 2000. The original race took in the stepping stones by Ogmore castle, a route abandoned after heavy rain submerged the stones in year 2!

Many runners were in festive costumes and we left them to enjoy mince pies and mulled wine at their half way point as we turned south along the river. They crossed the river back towards Merthyr Mawr and their second ascent of the highest dune in Europe, known as ‘The Big Dipper‘. The sun sparkled on birds in the river and looking east we could see walkers and horse riders with the runners behind them. From here we followed the coast towards Southerndown before heading inland through some woodland and arriving at the Heritage centre. Now we took a slight diversion down to the coast to enjoy our very welcome lunch, with the luxury of picnic tables. Then north-east towards Pitcot, where opposite Pitcot pool we were surprised to find the Farmers Arms closed. From here it was a short walk along the road to where we had parked in St Brides Major. A walk of 7 miles and 500ft.

 

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Merthyr Mawr, Newton and Candleston

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The car park at Candleston, Merthyr Mawr was the starting point for our walk and we headed west across the dunes towards the beach at Newton. Initially we climbed a steep dune and then undulated through the sandy paths admiring the seed heads of the many wild flowers standing tall around us.

Merthyr Mawr is the highest dune system in Wales. Sand has settled on top of an ancient limestone cliff creating a special habitat for insects, fungi and plants. Springs arise from the bottom of the cliff giving rise to pools and temporary streams. Flints from the Stone Age, burial mounds and pottery from the Bronze Age, hearths from the Iron Age and Roman tiles discovered here have resulted in much of the Warren being scheduled as an Ancient Monument.

It was a misty morning and we could just make out the banks of the river Ogmore and the sea in the distance, where we had walked last weekend. As the dunes led us to the sea, the last stretch of our walk west was on the beach where there were quite a few people, mostly walking their dogs. Unfortunately it was too early for lunch so before reaching the road at Newton we headed inland and then generally east following a path through woodland. We passed the scout camp at Wigfach and an interesting building near it, built in art deco style. Many different fungi were spotted on the ground and rotting wood, including a timely outcrop of turkey tail. Finding a clearing in the wood we ate our lunch and then made our way along Cwm y Befos, emerging onto farmland and more normal terrain. Passing Candleston farm, we headed north alongside a wood and then south-east. A friendly horse and donkey came close and followed us across their field before we arrived at the pretty Merthyr Mawr village near the church. Now we walked along the road finishing at Candleston castle. The castle is a 14thC fortified manor house, in ruins since the 19thC. The castle is believed to be named after the Norman family of Cantilupe, thought to be its first feudal tenants. In the 21stC, the castle is an ‘ivy covered ruin’: wildfowl, butterflies, moths, autumn gentian, violets and orchids are seen in its area. We had walked 8 miles and climbed 600ft.

 

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December’s Book Choice

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"Cranford"

By  Elizabeth Gaskell

 

Page Turners were greeted with mincepies. Mulled wine and Buck’s Fizz to ensure plenty of Christmas spirit at the final meeting of 2016.

Less palatable however, was the book the group had been offered for December. To continue the foodie theme, it was not easily digested by the group and left a bitter taste in the mouth!cranford

“Cranford “ is one of the better-known novels of the 19th century English writer, Elizabeth Gaskell. It was first published in eight instalments, between December 1851 and May 1853 and was a popular novel at the time. There is no plot, rather a collection of satirical sketches portraying small town customs and values in mid Victorian England.

Only one member made their way through the whole book. Readers did not like having to constantly refer to the book notes and some thought it was a punishment to have to read it! The only positive comment on the book was that people thought it made you appreciate life today, instead of having the anxiety that surrounded women in the 1850’s who had to worry about their choice of bonnets!

No scores were given and it was not a recommended read.

When the discussion was over, the more important business of the discussing the merits of the Yule log and the Malteser Christmas pudding could continue.

The group can now turn their thoughts to the next book and more happy discussions in 2017.

 

 

 

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