Forest of Dean
We ventured into England (just) for this walk in the Forest of Dean on the Wales/England border, parking in a large layby opposite Broadstone Park, Staunton. Returning down the hill we picked up a track leading to the Kymin, a National Trust property with stunning views across Monmouthshire and a map showing what is visible. You can park here but the end of the walk would be a steep climb back up – not a good idea. There is a Naval Temple with inscriptions on all 4 faces. A group of girls from Surrey were sat on the grass psyching themselves for their Duke of Edinburgh treks; we wished them success.
We headed downhill through Beaulieu Wood and spotted a field with beehives where beekeepers were working in their protective clothes.
We took a broad path through High Meadow Wood picking up the Wysis Way, an 88Km route which connects Offa’s Dyke to Thames path. Sweet chestnut trees have grown here for centuries, some of them exceptionally large. The forest has deciduous and evergreen trees including oak, both pedunculate and sessile, and beech. Now we began to find some huge stones towering above us. We passed the Everard Oak, an impressive tree rising from the deep hillside and designated by the verderers of the Forest of Dean to John Everard in appreciation of his service as deputy surveyor.
We turned onto a footpath to our right climbing steeply and suddenly we were miniaturised by the Suck Stone, probably 40,000tons in weight. It has slipped down the hill and is widely regarded as the largest detached boulder in Britain. It is said that if anyone climbs the stone, they will be visited by the mischievous fairy of the rock who will grant them superhuman powers.
Continuing to climb we arrived at the immense Near Hearkening rock. It is an overhanging cliff of erratic stone, comprising quartz conglomerate and red sandstone. It is called Hearkening rock as gamekeepers used it to detect poachers, in search of the King’s deer, at night, the acoustics allowing you to hear a whisper – needless to say, we did not notice this as we were all chatting amongst ourselves. We stopped for lunch here, spreading out across the stone and under trees, with views across to Skirrid, the Black mountains and Monmouthshire.
Now we entered Lady Park Wood, it is an ancient broadleaf woodland untouched since 1944 – probably the closest to a primeval forest you are likely to find. The sense of quiet peace in this area was remarkable, my whole body seemed to sigh and absorb the wonderful energy of this place.
Staunton village’s name comes from Old English Stane (as in Stane street) and ‘Tun’ a stony settlement. Staunton is mentioned in the Domesday book as one farmstead and a waste or meend.
We soon spotted the village pound, originally built in the 17thC to hold stray animals. The pound keeper was responsible for the animals and extracted a fine for their release, a practice which continued until mid 20thC. The current pound was built to replace one on the site of the National school, which is now the village hall. At the Old people’s home nearby there were two fancy dress scarecrows, a carer and a resident, propped against the fence and looking down on us.
Opposite the late Norman, All Saints church are medieval buildings which were a granary, mill, windmill, alms house and the remains of the medieval village cross.
Now we walked through Hymens Meend, a more open area, and reached a trig point. Nearby is the Buck stone with terrific views into Wales. The stone is another monster; it was once a rocking stone but was dislodged by Victorian vandals, an inn keeper with actors from London. The stone was split into several pieces, but it was cemented back together in 1886 and secured in place with an iron bar; it no longer rocks. About six tons of chains, huge timbers and enormous cranes were used to ‘skid’ the stone back up the hill to its current location. At one time it was believed that the stone had been placed in its position by Druidic agency and may have been a druidic altar.
Skirting Staunton Meend, we had brilliant views south to England near Buckstone House and returned to the cars. What a wonderful walk. It had been a warm day but luckily, we had spent most of it in woodland and kept reasonably cool.
Walk 6.5 miles, 1200ft. Map OL14
