Along the Gower Coast

 

 

Gower

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Saturday dawned extremely wet and miserable so we all agreed to postpone our walk until Sunday when the forecast was good. We were very glad when Sunday arrived bright and sunny. It was early September and we were off to the Gower. Our walk started in Murton and took us to Southgate via Caswell Bay.

Setting off from Murton in a south-easterly direction we walked through Oldway, noticing some of the road names seemed to relate to its history: e.g. Lime kiln lane and Long Acre. There were long thin strips shown on the OS map and we guessed that this was how the area had been divided for the people to grow food.

 

Continuing we came into Bishop’s Wood, a local nature reserve with well developed paths. Near its centre we came across a roundhouse; based on a medieval design it is built from locally harvested oak and ash (the predominant trees in Bishop’s wood). The river that created this valley still flows underground and can still be found surfacing on Caswell beach. We also emerged here, it was lovely to see the sea in the sunshine and we lingered briefly to make use of the facilities on offer. We walked in a westerly direction across the beach and now we were on the coastal path following it to Brandy Cove and then Pwlldu Bay (one of the many Welsh ‘Blackpool’s). Late summer flowers were spotted including mullein. The coast below was covered in craggy rocks which had attracted quite a few sea birds, cormorants being the most distinctive.

cowsAt the beginning of Pwlldu Bay the path climbed up to the road leading to High Pennard and we followed it although the beach was deserted and looked very attractive. We came into open countryside and decided to stop for lunch just before Hunts Farm on a raised grassy area where we had open views across the bracken clad moor down to the sea in the distance. A few people walked below us as we rested and several people rode past on horses nearer the sea. It was surprisingly cool while we were stationary so we didn’t linger too long over lunch.

We resumed our route towards Hunts farm and then Southgate, turning inland near Fox Hole before reaching Southgate. There was some impressive

housing in this area and we admired many of the buildings. We headed north east, coming across some waterlogged land and were grateful for a bridge in one place where the water was particularly deep. A field had cows with their very cute calves, some of which showed little fear as they nudged a feed bucket on the other side of a gate from us. At Hael farm a large marquee was being taken down and there were some lovely begonias in big pots.

We followed the course of a stream through a wooded valley. We had good paths to begin with, then it became very muddy and finally the valley floor was littered with large rocks covered in moss – like a riverbed, quite difficult to negotiate! There was a steep rock face to one side and we spotted a cave; further on the water disappeared underground into another cave.bridge

We were travelling north towards Kittle when we came across a notice: ‘Footpath… registered in the riverbed – is usually walkable when dry. However a large sinkhole has opened up which is dangerous to approach as the surrounding surfaces are highly unstable and there is no room to pass safely.’ Slightly worrying but a quick bit of route planning by our expert map readers and some information from a fellow walker who had just negotiated a diversion and we were on our way again, travelling generally north through Bishopston.

Arriving at the edge of Kittle in glorious sunshine we passed 2 pubs, The Joiners Arms and The Valley. We didn’t stop but continued along a path to the side of the local school, which had lots of colourful wild flowers growing at its entrance. On Providence Lane we passed a very remote and unwelcoming house – there were even bars on the windows. Returning to the community centre in Murton, we looked at the pump and well behind it. We retired to the Plough and Harrow and relaxed in the late sunshine with a drink but wished we hadn’t eaten our sandwiches – the meals appearing from the kitchen looked scrumptious. We had walked 7.75 miles and climbed 750ft. Map 164.

 

 

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Tai Chi

 

 

TAI CHI in WENVOE

 

tai-chi-02In Wenvoe we practise Tai Chi Yang style, a form with 3 parts – which I correlate to childhood, adulthood and mature adulthood. When you start you learn the 1st part and build up confidence before moving on to the later stages.tai-chi-01

Tai Chi is excellent for stress relief and teaches us to move from our centre, with slow flowing movements which encourage us to use a wide range of muscles in a relaxed way.

A number of people have asked me when the next Tai Chi beginners’ class is happening. I plan to start one in mid-February 2017 on a Wednesday evening at about 5.30pm. I keep beginners in their own class so that we can progress as a group. This is likely to be the last beginner’s course I take in Wenvoe as I plan to retire once it is complete after more than 20 years of teaching.

If you would like to join us please contact me – Annie on 02920 593570.

 

 

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Latest Walks Reports

 

 

St Brides Major

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We started at St Brides Major and walked north-west across Beacons Down on a bright Sunday morning. As we approached the river Ogmore we could see a long line of runners coming towards us and then sharing our route. In places it was pretty muddy underfoot following Saturday’s rain and we didn’t envy them having to run through it.

They were participating in the Merthyr Mawr Christmas Pudding race, which is a challenging multi-terrain six mile race. The pudding race was started in 1990 by Bridgend AC who organised the race for 10 years, handing over to the Brackla Harriers club in 2000. The original race took in the stepping stones by Ogmore castle, a route abandoned after heavy rain submerged the stones in year 2!

Many runners were in festive costumes and we left them to enjoy mince pies and mulled wine at their half way point as we turned south along the river. They crossed the river back towards Merthyr Mawr and their second ascent of the highest dune in Europe, known as ‘The Big Dipper‘. The sun sparkled on birds in the river and looking east we could see walkers and horse riders with the runners behind them. From here we followed the coast towards Southerndown before heading inland through some woodland and arriving at the Heritage centre. Now we took a slight diversion down to the coast to enjoy our very welcome lunch, with the luxury of picnic tables. Then north-east towards Pitcot, where opposite Pitcot pool we were surprised to find the Farmers Arms closed. From here it was a short walk along the road to where we had parked in St Brides Major. A walk of 7 miles and 500ft.

 

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Merthyr Mawr, Newton and Candleston

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The car park at Candleston, Merthyr Mawr was the starting point for our walk and we headed west across the dunes towards the beach at Newton. Initially we climbed a steep dune and then undulated through the sandy paths admiring the seed heads of the many wild flowers standing tall around us.

Merthyr Mawr is the highest dune system in Wales. Sand has settled on top of an ancient limestone cliff creating a special habitat for insects, fungi and plants. Springs arise from the bottom of the cliff giving rise to pools and temporary streams. Flints from the Stone Age, burial mounds and pottery from the Bronze Age, hearths from the Iron Age and Roman tiles discovered here have resulted in much of the Warren being scheduled as an Ancient Monument.

It was a misty morning and we could just make out the banks of the river Ogmore and the sea in the distance, where we had walked last weekend. As the dunes led us to the sea, the last stretch of our walk west was on the beach where there were quite a few people, mostly walking their dogs. Unfortunately it was too early for lunch so before reaching the road at Newton we headed inland and then generally east following a path through woodland. We passed the scout camp at Wigfach and an interesting building near it, built in art deco style. Many different fungi were spotted on the ground and rotting wood, including a timely outcrop of turkey tail. Finding a clearing in the wood we ate our lunch and then made our way along Cwm y Befos, emerging onto farmland and more normal terrain. Passing Candleston farm, we headed north alongside a wood and then south-east. A friendly horse and donkey came close and followed us across their field before we arrived at the pretty Merthyr Mawr village near the church. Now we walked along the road finishing at Candleston castle. The castle is a 14thC fortified manor house, in ruins since the 19thC. The castle is believed to be named after the Norman family of Cantilupe, thought to be its first feudal tenants. In the 21stC, the castle is an ‘ivy covered ruin’: wildfowl, butterflies, moths, autumn gentian, violets and orchids are seen in its area. We had walked 8 miles and climbed 600ft.

 

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December’s Book Choice

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"Cranford"

By  Elizabeth Gaskell

 

Page Turners were greeted with mincepies. Mulled wine and Buck’s Fizz to ensure plenty of Christmas spirit at the final meeting of 2016.

Less palatable however, was the book the group had been offered for December. To continue the foodie theme, it was not easily digested by the group and left a bitter taste in the mouth!cranford

“Cranford “ is one of the better-known novels of the 19th century English writer, Elizabeth Gaskell. It was first published in eight instalments, between December 1851 and May 1853 and was a popular novel at the time. There is no plot, rather a collection of satirical sketches portraying small town customs and values in mid Victorian England.

Only one member made their way through the whole book. Readers did not like having to constantly refer to the book notes and some thought it was a punishment to have to read it! The only positive comment on the book was that people thought it made you appreciate life today, instead of having the anxiety that surrounded women in the 1850’s who had to worry about their choice of bonnets!

No scores were given and it was not a recommended read.

When the discussion was over, the more important business of the discussing the merits of the Yule log and the Malteser Christmas pudding could continue.

The group can now turn their thoughts to the next book and more happy discussions in 2017.

 

 

 

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CELEBRATING THE NEW YEAR

 

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All countries have their own customs and traditions for celebrating the arrival of another year and most of them involve food, wine and fun. Here are some of the more interesting events that take place in Europe and Wales.

In Estonia, people decorate villages, visit friends and prepare lavish meals. Some believe that people should eat seven, nine, or twelve times on New Year's Eve. These are lucky numbers in Estonia; it is believed that for each meal consumed, the person gains the strength of that many men the following year.

A Finnish tradition is to tell the fortunes of the New Year by melting "tin" (actually lead) in a tiny pan on the stove and throwing it quickly in a bucket of cold water. The resulting blob of metal is analysed, for example by interpreting shadows it casts by candlelight. These predictions are however never taken seriously.

In France, New Year's Eve (la Saint-Sylvestre) is usually celebrated with a feast. This feast customarily includes special dishes including; foie gras, seafood such as oysters, and champagne. The celebration can be a simple, intimate dinner with friends and family or a much fancier ball. You would expect nothing less of the French!

New Year's Eve in Greece has many traditions. During the day, children sing the New Year's carols to be given money or treat. Then, it is time to have family lunch or dinner. In the evening, people cook a pie named "King's pie” (Vasilopita), which is a cake flavoured with almonds. They put a coin wrapped in aluminium foil inside the pie. After a fireworks show, they cut the Vasilopita and serve it. The person that gets the wrapped coin is the lucky person of the day and he or she is also blessed for the rest of the year.

In Hungary, many years ago, some people believed that animals were able to speak on New Year's Eve, and that onion skins sprinkled with salt could indicate a rainy month.

In Italy an ancient tradition involves eating lentil stew when a bell tolls midnight, one spoonful per bell. This is supposed to bring good fortune; the round lentils represent coins.

In Portugal the New Year celebration is taken very seriously. The tradition is to drink champagne and eat twelve raisins – one for each month of the year, making a wish for each.

Here in Wales we have the ancient tradition of Calennig which originally meant giving gifts of money on New Year’s Day, though nowadays it is customary to give bread and cheese. In Cardiff crowds enjoy live music, ice-skating, funfairs and fireworks. Many of the celebrations take place at Cardiff Castle and Cardiff City Hall. If you are going there from Wenvoe make sure you have a lift home as taxis and buses may be scarce.

In the valleys New Year's Eve is marked with the Nos Galan road race over 3 miles, which is held in Mountain Ash. The race celebrates the life and achievements of the runner Guto Nyth Bran who was born in 1700. It is run over the route of Guto's first competitive race. Guto was born in Llwyncelyn near Porth. It was said that his sprinting first came to be noticed as he was helping his father herd sheep, when he managed to chase and catch a wild hare. One legend has him running from his home to Pontypridd and back, a total distance of 7 miles before his mother's kettle had boiled. Another tale is that he could blow out a candle and be in bed before the light faded.

We all have ways of celebrating the New Year whether with family or friends, but at this time of year let us remember those who are alone and perhaps call on a lonely neighbour to wish them well. Finally for anyone in Wenvoe without a plan there is always the recently refurbished Wenvoe Arms where the landlord – Digby – will be pleased to welcome you.

 

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November’s Book Choice

 

The Mysterious Affair at Styles by Agatha Christie.poirot01

Agatha Christie’s first novel “The Mysterious Affair at Styles” was published in 1920 and introduced a new literary character in the form of Hercule Poirot, a Belgian detective who became the central figure in more than 30 of her novels.

The unfolding story line is narrated by Captain Hastings, a guest of Emily Inglethorp, the owner of Styles. Hastings has pretentions of becoming a detective and solicits the help of his friend Poirot to resolve the mystery of the subsequent death of the owner. The book is thoroughly enjoyable with the introduction of several intriguing characters, a page turning plot with numerous clues and red herrings which kept the reading group guessing as to the murderer until the final denouement.

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The prose is relatively naive with one or two unexplained clues emerging and all agreed that in our imaginations we continually saw Poirot as portrayed by the television actor David Suchet However this did not deter from our enjoyment of an easy and relaxing novel which was awarded an overall mark of 7.5 out of 10.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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November’s Expeditions

 

Abercarn to Mynydd Llwyd 

Our drive to the beginning of this walk was very promising as we climbed quite a way, passing narrow terraces in Abercarn, to arrive at a parking area in the forest near Llanfach. It was a misty day, no rain but we were surrounded by light clouds.

We started out on good forest tracks, as usual heading uphill. After a while we came to an area where some extensive tree felling had been done. The track was totally covered by wood – branches, sawdust and twigs – making the going quite hard but at least there was no mud. In view of the tree felling it was decided to alter our plans and stay on the main track rather than branch off onto a footpath. A good decision as the footpath was very steep!

dec-f-img_5956smAll morning we walked uphill along Nant Gwyddon, through some glorious autumnal colours yellow from the larches, browns and oranges from beeches, oaks, and other species. One tree drew our attention as we debated which animal it most resembled – an elephant from one side and a stag from the other. The route continued up Craig y Trwyn and then northeast to the edge of the forest. Although cloudy it was a warm day for November and we became pretty warm ourselves.

As we emerged onto moor land visibility was quite low, so we decided to take advantage of a line of pylons to guide us and walked towards the nearest one before turning east. A track followed the line of pylons which made the going easy and at last we were on level ground.

When the pylon line changed direction, the shape of the pylon arms changed to carry the tension of the power line as it turned the corner. Just beyond here was a radio mast on Mynydd Llwyd which indicated that we should turn south and then southwest back towards the woodland. On this stretch we could see sunlight shining over the land in the distance and the clouds around us dispersed as they lifted but it remained overcast where we were.

Before re-entering the woods, we stopped for lunch on a grassy bank, overlooking a valley of autumnal colour. The ground around us was covered in tiny examples of several different types of fungi, which could only be seen because they were so close.

Now it was downhill through the forest and we could see our morning path across Craig Pant-glas. As we continued a slight breeze stirred the air and it appeared to start snowing – the fine larch needles drifting in the same way as snowflakes do when they first start falling. It created a lovely atmosphere and brought a smile to our faces.

Returning to the cars we had walked 8.8 miles and climbed 1300ft (so much for thinking we were doing most of the climbing by car at the start). We drove down to the visitor centre in Cwmcarn for a cup of tea, at 90p a cup or £1 a large cup – very good value. Map 166.

 

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Efail Isaf and the Garth

We parked in Efail Isaf on a bright morning and set out on good paths towards the Garth. A steady climb across open land allowed us to arrive at the trig point on the top of Garth hill surprisingly easily – much easier than the steep climb from Gwaelod y Garth which we had done in the past. Garth Hill burial mounds are four early – middle bronze age (around 2000BC) dec-f-img_5942smround barrows, the area is within the parish of Pentyrch. A brief stop for a summit photo and we were descending towards Soar.

The sun was shining and now and again, as a gust of wind blew, a scattering of leaves fell from surrounding trees looking like a golden rain shower. There were some fine fungi covering an old tree stump being used as a gate post and also lots growing at our feet.

We made our way northwest and north past Gwaelod-y-garth towards Coed y Gedrys, passing what appeared to be an entrance to a drift mine. Now the forecast cold wind started to blow and the temperature began to drop. We had lunch in an open area overlooking an Industrial Estate to the east in the Taff valley and open land to the north. We really appreciated the heat of the sun as the wind cut into us.

We headed generally east towards Tonteg Unexpectedly we came across a cardboard cut out figure high up in a tree – reminiscent of Boris Johnson’s zip wire ride.

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Returning to Efail Isaf we walked through a large number of rather nice new houses before getting back to the start. Another 8 miles and 1300ft walked. We went to Arthur Llewellyn Jenkins on the way home, where we had huge pots of tea – very refreshing. Map 151.

 

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Cosmeston and Pen y Fan

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It was 20 years in October since the first outing of Wenvoe walking group. To mark the anniversary 14 people joined Bert and Gwyn at Cosmeston on a sunny afternoon. We explored its outer circuit and then headed for Penarth, returning via the cliff tops and housing back to Cosmeston. John and Jacky (also founding members of the group) were with us and Jacky had made a delicious celebration cake which we all shared. They also produced their photo album showing the group over the years – some people looked so young! At the end we visited the much improved café on the site and relaxed. Distance covered 2½/5 miles.

Pen y Fan

To get to the start of this walk we drove up the A470 past the Storey Arms and Brecon and through some pretty woodland to a National Trust car park to the north of Pen y Fan.

We donned our boots and immediately after starting we were heading uphill. Soon the climb was steep and a keen wind was blowing, the temperature dropping as we rose. We passed a footstepsimg3smcol at Allt Du where the wind was particularly strong and walked along the ridge of Cefn Cwm Llwch. Now we entered into the clouds which helped us forget that the ground was falling steeply away on both sides but also made it difficult to see each other at times. Even up here there were sheep and a couple of people behind us who had let their dog off the lead and had some difficulty in getting it back when it became interested in the sheep. We continued upwards at a pace we could maintain and were pleasantly surprised to find we had arrived at the summit (886 metres) as it suddenly appeared in the clouds. It was like Picadilly circus, there were so many people – lots of nationalities and school children amongst them having arrived by different routes. We stopped to take our summit photo and were awed to see a spectacular view as the cloud lifted slightly and we could see the surrounding ridges appear and disappear again as the clouds moved in waves. It was difficult to draw away and continue our walk.

Now we had a choice of whether to return via Corn Ddu or Cribyn, we opted for the latter as a few of us hadn’t been there. This meant quite a steep descent along Craig Cwm Sere in a south easterly direction along a paved path which continued up the steep climb to Cribyn (795metres). The cloud had cleared completely from Pen y Fan and we looked back at the route we had walked – amazing views and a real sense of achievement. It was 13.30hrs so we descended slightly to take some shelter from the perpetual wind and eat our lunch. On each of the summits we were surprised to see a few people wearing shorts and even footstepsimg2smone person in T-shirt and shorts as he was running.

Time to descend, there is a steep uneven descent from the top of Cribyn on its north side and looking back it looked like a pyramid.

We had very little company now as we continued our steady path downwards along Bryn Teg for some time. Nant Sere was in the valley between us and the ridge we had climbed in the morning. At last our descent was more gradual and we were crossing pasture land at Cwm Cywyn and our first stile of the day onto a lane. From here we kept to lanes and roads to walk around the base of the ridge that had taken us up to Pen Y Fan.

We were very happy to reach the cars and head home via the Bull in Libanus where we enjoyed some very welcome refreshment.

This was an excellent route, we had walked 7miles and climbed 2700ft – twice what we would normally climb -giving us a feeling of achievement and satisfaction even though we were tired; not bad for a group of 7 people whose total age was over 450 years! (Map OL12)

 

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“Persuasion” by Jane Austin

Our novel “Persuasion” was written in 1815 and published in 1817 six months after Jane Austen’s death. It was her last novel, and is still in print.persuasion

Through the eyes of the heroine, Anne Elliot, we learn of the intricacies of domestic and family lives involving her family, their friends and relations. The Elliot’s who enjoy the status of landed gentry live in Kellynch Hall, and are having financial problems because of Sir Walter’s vanity and spiralling debts. They socialise with the Musgroves whose son, Charles, is married to Mary Elliot, Sir Walter’s youngest daughter. Anne enjoys the company of the untitled and warm friendly Musgroves and their two daughters Henrietta and Louisa. Sir Walter is forced to rent his estate to Admiral Croft and Mrs Croft the sister of Captain Frederick Wentworth, to whom Anne was briefly engaged eight years earlier. She was advised and persuaded to break the engagement with Wentworth who was a naval officer at that time and of a lower status. Something she later regretted.

All human emotions (love, sadness, worries, joys) are experienced by Anne’s observations of the landed gentry, the landowner, and the naval families.

Bookclub review:-

Settled comfortably, we took ourselves back to the eighteen hundreds. This was not difficult with the help of Jane Austen.

With the beautiful language and long descriptive sentences we found that we were forced to read slower than usual and with care at first, but it did not take long to picture the locations of the events whether in Lyme Regis, where the group enjoyed the sea breezes, or Bath for the socialising and shopping.

Anne’s meticulous observations soon made us familiar with the interesting characters. Ann’s father and her older sister who were so preoccupied with class and the ‘right connections’ were outrageous and almost the opposite of the warmth, wit and comic situations of the Musgroves and Croft families.

Love was in the air for the young but Anne’s was not blooming at all.

Almost all in the group thoroughly enjoyed this novel giving it a score of 9 out of 10.

 

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IRON AND COPPER

 

 

wye-bridgesmThis year; 2016, saw a number of engineering anniversaries impacting on Wales, most of which concerned bridges, the 200th anniversary of Chepstow Wye Bridge was celebrated on 24th July with a number of events including a re-enactment of the 1816 opening ceremony. Designed and built by John Urpeth Rastrick FRS (1780-1856) it was opened on the 24th July 1816. A bridge with five spans, 372ft (113m) long, it was the third longest cast-iron arch road bridge in the world when built and it is now the largest survivor from the first fifty years of iron bridge construction. A civil and mechanical engineer Rastrick is remembered today as a railway pioneer. He built the first steam engine to run in the USA, chaired the Rainhill Trials for the Liverpool & Manchester Railway in 1829, and built numerous railways in Great Britain.mayor The iron arches were cast at the foundry of John Hazeldine at Bridgnorth in Shropshire where Rastrick was the engineer. On the 24th July 2016 a procession was led over the bridge headed by engineers, as it was in 1816, with the President of the Institution of Civil Engineers; Sir John Armitt, leading the way. Until 1989 it carried the normal road traffic through Chepstow and across the Wye into England and still carries road traffic, subject to a 7.5T weight restriction, today.

 

 

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANot quite as old, the Severn Bridge also celebrated a 50th birthday this year, on 8th September 2016. The 5,240ft (1,597m) long bridge was world’s first major suspension bridge to be built with an aerodynamic road deck it was also the lightest, and set the standard for future long span bridges, such as the Humber Bridge. Many people remember using the car ferries; Severn King and Severn Queen, to cross the Severn before the bridge opened. The Second Severn Crossing also celebrated a milestone this year, being opened on the 5th June 1996 – 20 years ago. At 5,134m long it is not a suspension bridge but a cable stayed bridge similar to the Wye (M48) Bridge – which also opened in 1966.

 

 

 

Another form of communications impacted on Wales 150 years ago with the successful completion of the laying of the Atlantic telegraph cable in 1866. On 27 July 1866 the quite Pembrokeshire bay of Abermawr became part of a trans-Atlantic

communications network with the laying of the fifth, and ultimately successful, telegraph cable between Valentia in Ireland and Trinity Bay in Newfoundland by Brunel’s Great Eastern steamship – the only ship big enough to take all the almost 2,000 nautical miles of telegraph cable required. Messages could now be transmitted from New York to Newfoundland and through the Atlantic cable to Ireland and across to Abermawr, being taken on to London via the SWR and GWR’s telegraph wires. Copper refined in Llanelli and Swansea provided the conductive core of the cable through which messages would be transmitted.

The former telegraph hut at abermawr01Abermawr, now a holiday cottage, actually predates the successful laying of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable by some four years and if we go back some fifteen years before that to 1847 we find that Isambard Kingdom Brunel had chosen Abermawr as the western terminus and port for the South Wales Railway. This was never carried out but the rural setting of the beach made it an ideal landing point for an underwater telegraph cable from Wexford, Ireland in 1862. Fear of German sabotage of the cable during the first world war saw soldiers being stationed on guard duty at Abermawr.

In 1866 the transmission speed of the transatlantic telegraph system was eight words per minute, by 1900 transmission rates of 120 words per minute were being sent reliably between continents. It was a system for business and governments, for example a ten word transatlantic message from the USA to Great Britain cost $100 or about £76 (today’s values about $2,600 or £1,980). The speed of cable borne news can be gauged with the assassination of Abraham Lincoln in April 1865, then the news took 12 days to reach British newspapers, When President James Garfield was shot in 1881, and it was reported within hours. Some 25 telegraph cables would be laid across the Atlantic by 1922 – the year that the Great Storm washed away the shore ends of the cable at Abermawr and the telegraph station closed.

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