Footsteps – Hensol Forest

Hensol Forest

On another sunny day, Wenvoe walkers met as a group (12 of us), for the first time since the beginning of March, to walk in Hensol forest.

We crossed fields with long grass heavy with dew which soaked our trousers, but we knew they would soon dry in the heat of the sun. A thorny hedge absolutely smothered in spiders’ webs glistened in the morning sunshine as it too was covered in dew. Our route was a figure 8 using tracks within the forest and some open farmland.

 

We passed some beautiful black cattle and spotted a colourful dragonfly resting at the edge of the road. At a path junction we stopped maintaining social distancing while everyone double checked our next path.

Ty Fry House, farm and Lodge appeared. Ty Fry Lodge looks like one might imagine a Hansel and Gretel house. It is a 19thC lodge to the Ty Fry estate. Originally the lodge to the country estate of the Insole family of The Court, Llandaff. It is a Grade II listed building constructed of local random rubble with Bath stone dressings and quoins. Its chimneys are unusual and seem large for the house.

We had lunch at Pysgodlyn Mawr, a lake which is a designated SSSI site. Several large clumps of water lilies were in full bloom and with clear blue skies and sunshine it was glorious. As we ate, House Martins swooped low over the water, no doubt feasting on insects hovering over the water.

Soon we were back at the cars having exercised tongues as much as our legs. How good it was to be together again.

Walk 5 miles. Map 151.

 



 

Footsteps – Draethen and Ruperra Castle

Draethen and Ruperra Castle

It was a hot day in early August when 4 of us parked in a woodland at Llwyn Hir, near Draethen and headed into the woods. We soon came across a tree with a large vertical hole in it where the trunk had split into two and then reformed.

Emerging from the woods we walked through Draethen, a pretty village with good views of the surrounding countryside. We crossed a river and entered a field of maize which proved difficult to navigate as the corn was tall with only a small space at the edge (the footpath was covered by maize). We turned towards the river walking along it. Dogs played in the water and there were plenty of picnic spots on the bank, with one family enjoying the shallows of the river. We spotted a church in the village of Lower Machen, St Michael and All Angels, which was possibly founded during the Celtic period in the 6th century, and Plas Machen in the distance.

We entered Coed Craig Ruperra, an ancient woodland, originally part of the Ruperra castle estate and now managed by the Ruperra Conservation Trust. Here the river Rhymney is spanned by a 16- metre iron foot bridge. The Iron Bridge was constructed in 1829 as part of a carriage drive across the estate owned by the Morgan family. It linked Ruperra castle with Machen church and the 16thC Plas Machen farmhouse (a 16thC mansion house, seat of the Morgan family before their move to Tredegar House in the 1660s).

The bridge is a Grade II listed structure and its restoration was undertaken 2008-2010. Phase 1 involved stripping all the ironworks and repair of the riverbank and stone abutments. The work included searching the riverbank for missing pieces while protecting wildlife such as bats in the locality. During phase 2, winter of 2009/10, the whole bridge was sent in sections to a foundry in Kent where missing and damaged pieces were recast and sections cleaned and painted. Phase 3 saw the bridge returned in 2010, it was secured in its original position, where hopefully it will last another 180 years.

Crossing the bridge, we saw a large modern house on the bank of the river which we circumnavigated before climbing the field behind it. Looking back, we could see it was quite splendid. A pond in its grounds played host to 100 or more Canada geese and other wildfowl.

We had enjoyed excellent shade throughout most of the walk but now we emerged into the sunshine to climb to the Ruperra Iron Age hill fort (200 BC). A motte and bailey castle (1200) was built on the site probably by the Normans, a 17thC 2-storey summerhouse replaced the motte and at the beginning of 20thC it became a thatched summerhouse. We rested here in the shade of a tree, for lunch – relaxed and cool.

Continuing, we passed the ruins of Ruperra Castle, a Grade II listed building built in 1626. King Charles I stayed here after the battle of Naseby. It has twice been ravaged by fire.

Now we had superb views of the Bristol Channel before turning north to return to the cars.

Walk 6 miles. Map 152

 



 

Parking Email Scam

Parking Email Scam

Dyfed Powys Police are warning residents not to respond to a parking email scam targeting their residents. If you receive such an email do not click on the ‘pay here’ box or telephone the number. H M Courts and Tribunal Service are not sending out penalty charge notices. Delete the email and tell your friends and family. The more people that know this is a scam, the less victims there will be.

 



 

Footsteps on Blorenge

Footsteps on Blorenge

Blorenge – We began at Keepers Pond (officially Pen-ffordd-goch Pond) in the south-eastern corner of the Black Mountains which is nestled in the hills of the area. Keepers was the final of three reservoirs built to supply water for the forges and works of Garn Ddyrys foundry. The car park was busy with cars also parked across the road. We were surprised to find a good number of people in wet suits who had just finished a swim in the pool. Although it was a sunny morning the water did not look very inviting to us! A group of men had remote controlled motorboats on the water which were making a whining sound and spoiling the peaceful atmosphere of the place.

Setting off we walked along the edge of the pond towards the aerials in the distance at the Foxhunter carpark, our aim to walk anticlockwise around the mountain.

This area is a world heritage site, an SSSI and part of the Brecon Beacons National Park. It was once prized for the raw materials it provided for industrial processes. Limestone was quarried and coal mined with Blaenavon Ironworks to the southwest.

But the landscape is now treasured and protected for wildlife. The limestone cliffs are home to a rare species of whitebeam tree and nesting birds. The coal measures are covered in heather, the moorland providing habitat for many birds and shallow pools left by old coal workings are rich in dragonflies.

Arriving at the aerials we found the grave of Foxhunter, a Champion International Show Jumper. Best known as part of the 1952 summer Olympics team which won Britain’s only Gold medal at Helsinki. They also won bronze in the 1948 Olympics and amongst many other wins the King George cup in 1948, 1950 and 1953. Foxhunter’s skeleton was preserved and donated to the Royal Veterinary College where it was put on permanent display. His hide was buried on the Blorenge and when his rider Sir Harry Llewellyn died aged 88 years in 1999 his ashes were scattered around the horse’s memorial. He had 2 sons Dai and Roddy, both of whom became well known media personalities, the latter because of an 8 -year affair with Princess Margaret.

We followed a path leading northwest towards the trig point marking the top of the Blorenge mountain (559m), spotting cotton grass in the moorland. To the side of the trig point is a much older stone cairn which marks a Bronze age burial site. Visibility was excellent and we could even see the Bristol Channel in the distance. The whole of Abergavenny could be seen in the Usk valley with the Skirrid and Sugar loaf providing a backdrop whilst England stretched flat into the distance. The Welsh hills, to the west, were also clear – a wind turbine and semi-circular upper part of a white bridge glowing in the sunshine.

We descended slightly towards Abergavenny and walked along the edge of the escarpment keeping our height and contouring around the mountain. A post at one point marked the Iron Mountain Trail. This is a route of 12 miles which can be split into 2 walks. It follows the routes of former tramways, inclines and footpaths linking many of the historic features which make up the landscape of the World Heritage Site between Blaenavon and Abergavenny,

It was a glorious summer day and we lingered a while over lunch which was spent looking across the valley to Abergavenny. We tried to identify the distant hills before a local passer-by confirmed they were the Malverns. A few hang-gliders who looked as though they were almost landing before soaring back up into the sky and finally landing in a field entertained us. Although the traffic in the valley was light it was amazing how much noise from it rose to us.

Walking on we found wild thyme growing on the stony ground and spotted a few fritillary butterflies. The heather was in full flower. As we approached the northernmost point of our day, we could see the distinctive outline of Pen y Fan and its neighbours on the skyline. Arriving back at Keepers Pond white fluffy clouds were gathering and the temperature dropping. We met swimmers tip toeing their way out of the water while begging a friend to throw them a towel.

An easy fairly level walk of 5.5 miles. Map OL13

 



 

Meeting In My Garden!!

“THE PAGE TURNERS”

Meeting In My Garden!!

Page Turners report..we managed a meeting in my garden!!

Changes to lockdown restrictions meant the Page Turners could have an alfresco meeting in a back garden in August. The 3 books read during the lockdown were rapidly reviewed so the main purpose of the meeting, “A catch up”, could be undertaken!

Music and Silence, by Rose Tremain, is set in and around the court of Christian IV of Denmark in 1629 -30.

C was the consensus.

The Hidden Life of Trees, by Peter Wohleben, a non fiction book, discusses how trees feel and how they communicate.

D this was not so well received. No tree-huggers in the Page Turners!

The Binding, by Bridget Collins, is a fantasy novel about a book binder whose responsibilty is to help those who want to forget and erase memories.

C This was considered a good read C

With reviews out of the way, cakes and drinks were served and the Page Turners could discuss how the lockdown has been….everyone was in good spirits and enjoyed the novelty of being out and about!

 

 



 

Book of the Month – September

Off the Shelf –

Book of the Month

This month’s book was Olive Kitteridge by Elizabeth Strout. This book was winner of the Pulitzer Prize in 2009. Elizabeth Strout offers profound insights into the complexities of human relationships – its various chapters share the conflicts, tragedies and joys of life from the smallest incidental moments to people’s exploration of their life’s journey. In both the darkest and joyous passages of the book we can find our own parallels of emotions.

Olive Kitteridge, is a retired schoolteacher, living in the town of Crosby, Maine. She doesn’t always recognise the changes in those around her and the bluntness in her responses can almost knock the reader off balance. At times this results in the most poignant and sensitive scenes which continue to play out in the reader’s mind long after the book has been put down. Olive’s relationships with her grown up son Christopher and husband Henry are extremely complex as both parties feel unbalanced by her irrational sensitivities.

As the townspeople grapple with their problems, mild and dire, Olive is brought to a deeper understanding of herself and her life – sometimes painfully, but always with ruthless honesty. Elizabeth Strout is magnificent in allowing us to slip into a character’s viewpoint. She can leave us sensing something dark or life sustaining but always there is hope. There is a simple honesty that weaves itself throughout the book: that we need to try to understand people even if we don’t particularly like them. The Book Club members loved it and gave it an overall score of 9/10

Your contributions – We would love to receive a review or synopsis of a book you are reading during lockdown. Please email your contributions to wenvoelibrary@outlook.com

 



 

Falling in Love (Death at La Fenice)

 

Off The Shelf

Falling in Love (Death at La Fenice)

 

Falling in Love (Death at La Fenice) was this month’s book written by American author Donna Leon. Leon lived in Venice for many years and has written a series of crime novels set in and around the city, featuring her fictional hero Commissario Guido Brunetti.

Flavia Petrelli has returned to Venice and La Fenice to sing the lead in Tosca. Lately, an unknown fan has been sending copious bouquets of yellow roses to the dressing rooms of the international opera houses where Flavia has been singing. In the beginning Flavia was flattered by the thoughtfulness of the anonymous fan but now the growing number of floral tokens have become extreme and Flavia has become disturbed by the attention of what now appears to be that of a stalker.

Flavia is a family friend of detective Guido Brunetti and she tells him of her concerns. When her ex-lover is attacked, Brunetti realises that Flavia’s life could be in danger. The plot grinds on to a never-ending finale.

This was not a popular book with our members. Other than sharing the obvious love the author has for Venice and opera, the story line did not capture our hearts. It was an easy read but we thought that the plot was far-fetched and implausible. We felt obliged to finish the book rather than enjoy it. We gave the book 5/10.

Your contributions

We would love to receive a review or synopsis of a book you are reading during lockdown. Please email your contributions to wenvoelibrary@outlook.com

 



 

The Book Character I Would Most Like to Meet

Page Turners

The Book Character Page Turners Would Most Like to Meet

A survey for World Book Day asked ‘leading lights of literary luminaries’ to name the characters who gave them the greatest reading pleasure. The list included Pip (Great Expectations), Elizabeth Bennett (Pride and Prejudice), Sherlock Holmes (Hound of the Baskervilles etc), Gandalf (Lord of the Rings) and Anne (Anne of Green Gables). The Page Turners were asked to select a character from a book that they would most like to meet.
Sylvia would like a whodunit solved. She would like to meet Mlle de Poitiers, the French Mistress from the book, ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’ by Joan Lindsay. Sylvia would be keen to talk with her about the ‘event’ and the pupils involved. The detective Endeavour, from the Morse series by Colin Dexter was Helen’s choice. Helen believes he is a dour, irascible character who has the ability to collate a series of clues. Endeavour also has the prowess to effortlessly complete The Times crossword every day, and Helen would greatly appreciate meeting him to obtain some tips!! Tess would like a walk down memory lane and meet up with Sir Wilfred Thesiger author of ‘Arabian Sands’ and ‘The Marsh Arabs’. Tess spent many years in the Middle East and would like to chat with Sir Wilfred of their shared experiences of crossing the Empty Quarter (Rub-al-Khali) and travels in the Middle East. Babs selected the character Olive Ketteridge from the novel of the same name by Elizabeth Strout. This novel comprises of 13 short stories, highlighting characters living in Crosby, Maine. The common thread in each of the stories is Olive, a retired school teacher, who has impacted in many ways on the lives of different characters. Babs believes Olive is cranky, opinionated, complex and fascinating: and she thinks they would become friends if they ever met! Lynne chose Celie, an African-American woman living in the deep American south, from the novel ‘The Colour Purple’ by Alice Walker. Celie was born into poverty and segregation and spends most of her life being mistreated and abused by the men in her life. Celie eventually takes charge of her own destiny and becomes free of her abusive past. A strong, hopeful and combative character that Lynne believes would provoke some stimulating discussions. Sandra had just completed the ‘The Testaments’ by Margaret Attwood and would like to meet the divorced judge, Aunt Lydia. Aunt Lydia is imprisoned with other women in a stadium and endures weeks of squalid conditions. Aunt Lydia emerges as a woman who accepts that she must do what is necessary to stay alive. She becomes a mole. Sandra wonders why she chose to become a mole and behaved so badly, so cruelly and so stupidly. May would like to meet Miss Marple, a character from Agatha Christie books, including ‘The Murder at the Vicarage’. May imagines she would be good for a gossip and might also chat about some of the crime solutions she has been involved in (minus the gory details!)
Which character in which book would you like to meet?

 



 

Peterston Super Ely

Footsteps

Peterston Super Ely

We parked in St Nicholas, within our 5-mile limit, to do a walk based on Valeways walk no. 37 Peterston super Ely (A ridge and valley walk). The main walk is 2 loops of 3 miles and 4 miles centred on Peterston Super Ely.

From St Nicholas head north past the school where attempts have been made to keep rabbits off the play area with wiring under the fence, but they were running across the grass.

A profusion of brambles edged the path to Cottrell Park golf course, where there are views towards the south. We crossed the 7th tee and headed into the woodland opposite.

We met some people, with colourful bicycles, foraging in the lanes. They were collecting ramson seeds which were to be pickled and then scattered over salads etc. I tasted one, they have a strong garlic taste, much stronger than the leaves in spring. Later we spotted water hemlock growing alongside the road – very poisonous.

Outside Peterston Super Ely is chapel Croes y Parc (1777). We spent some time exploring the churchyard which has some fascinating tombstones; one so high it towered over us, another crenelated like a castle wall. Care was needed as there was evidence of subsidence.

Arriving at Peterston Super Ely we had a quick look at the river from Llanbedr bridge and then walked generally north along the western side of the river Ely.

A large house The Mill was for sale but cannot be seen from the gates; the front garden is large. It is behind the National Trust Lanlay meadows – an SSSI with rich wildlife. This is an area of hay meadow virtually untouched by modern farming methods. There is a Community Orchard which was very tidy with many clumps of comfrey growing and a living willow shelter.

Continuing north a succession of stiles leads over the flat open fields of the river’s flood plain. Understandably the ground can be very wet here, but it was a beautiful summer’s day, and, after all the dry, spring weather, footpaths were firm underfoot. We had an especially early lunch (before noon) so that we could sit beside the river.

At the road running east-west near Dyffryn Mawr farm, we were disappointed to find that we were still in Peterston Super Ely after all our walking. We crossed the river and later the railway where you must phone before crossing as it is so busy.

This section had some interesting wildlife including monkshood (another poisonous plant) and innumerable butterflies, we spotted speckled woods, gatekeepers, tortoiseshell and burnet moths.

Arriving back in Peterston we enjoyed a coffee by the river. Then we crossed the pedestrian bridge to Wyndham Park, a Garden Village development begun in 1909. The Main Avenue is lined with both horse and sweet chestnut trees. It is interesting to walk around this area, we spotted several Polish emergency vehicles parked up. Some of the earliest built houses are the so-called Moroccan houses with tiled frontages and flat roofs.

At the top of Main Avenue, the footpath is to the right, a narrow path leads to open fields and there are soon expansive views to the north from the wind farm in Llanharran to the Garth mountain. At Homri farm you join a track and after a short walk the valley opens to the east. Now the panorama behind includes Castell Coch (which looks tiny from this distance) and Cardiff.

Another day we took a short but enjoyable diversion, east along this valley. It was a delightful and peaceful place no doubt enhanced by the glorious summer’s day. We crossed farmland dotted with sheep and ponds, witnessing idylls such as horses grazing beside a pond. At one point we had to cross a very narrow road (an access road for St Georges and St Bride’s Super Ely) – careful and speedy walking required here. Arriving at the Natural Burial ground, we explored their footpaths admiring the wildflower meadow, with lots of chicory. The arboretum has many interesting trees and once again when we emerged into open space, we had superb views. We ate lunch in a large field with a herd of cows in the distance who edged towards us all the time we were there. Three small aircraft flew above us in formation as we sat. We had great views almost the whole time we were walking, extensive to the north as described above and from the Natural Burial Ground we could even see parts of Cardiff Bay.

Continuing we arrived back in St Nicholas, took a brief diversion to the churchyard to see a grave marked by an anvil and then walked past the war memorial and pump to the cars (in line with Government advice just 2 households participated in this walk).

Walk 7.5 miles( plus extra for the diversion).

 



 

How Lucky We Are To Live In Wenvoe

How Lucky We Are To Live In Wenvoe

Wenvoe Walkers have been unable to enjoy their usual walks in the countryside due to the restrictions in place but most of us have walked around the village and its environs. Initially I was walking alone and enjoying brief conversations with other walkers and friends from the village if our paths happened to cross. More recently it has been possible to walk with one other household and share the experience. This article is a reflection on the many different routes I have walked rather than the usual single route.

How lucky we are to live in Wenvoe surrounded by countryside with a good network of footpaths. The Wenvoe Wildlife group’s Orchid field and Orchards formed the basis of my first forays. The Spring weather was exceptional and I found joy in finding bright marigolds in the Elizabethan orchard in April sunshine, apple blossom smothered in foraging bees in the Welsh orchard with Buzzards soaring overhead and more birds and insects than I have seen for years. For the first time I noticed catkins on oak trees – I expect Bruce has mentioned them in one of his articles – this is the pedunculate oak (Quercus robur). Did I see so much because it was so quiet, wildlife was not disturbed or are there truly more of them this year?

The golf course was a particular pleasure with the access road free of all traffic apart from the few people living and working there or at the farms. The freedom to roam (keeping off the greens of course) and gaze at the views not normally available whilst admiring the range of trees was a real bonus.

Within walking distance, we have so much available to us:

Travel east via Station Road, across the main road via the bridge (or at times stroll across there was so little traffic) and you can do a simple circuit back towards the quarry, or go via Wrinstone ( the footpath through Wrinstone farm was closed) to Salmon leaps, Cwrt-yr -ala and Michaelstone-le-Pit or venture further to Dinas meadows, the Avenue of Beech trees (which I call the cathedral), Cwm George and Casehill woods returning past Dinas golf course and Beauville farm.

Dinas Powys hill fort is on a ridge between Cwm George gorge and the river valley. It is thought to have been built in 450 BC and is the richest best preserved and most fully excavated early medieval settlement in Wales as well as the most important in Europe for this period. Its size and the rich finds, including a rare Saxon horn goblet, point towards this being the residence of a VIP. It might even have been the court of the kings of Glamorgan.

Did you know that Wrinstone farm is on the site of a medieval village? Earthworks around the farmstead indicate quite a large settlement. Wrinstone served as the manor house to Michaelston-le-Pit for many centuries. In the late 13thC it passed to Sir Simon de Ralegh (a relative of Sir Walter Raleigh). Cwrt-yr- Ala House (the court of Raleigh) became the estate seat when the family moved. However, the name was not used until long after the connection had ceased. (information from ‘Wenvoe past and present’ a Wenvoe History Group publication).

To the west we have Burdons hill (have you seen the aeroplane on the side of the garage belonging to one of the houses?), Pound lane, Wenvoe wood, Goldsland wood, Coed Nant Bran, St Lythans church and the burial chamber, Tinkinswood burial chamber, Dyffryn and Dyffryn fisheries (but sadly no access to Dyffryn House and Gardens), St Nicholas, and last but not least all the farmland of our local farms of which there are many.

To the north you can visit Twyn-yr- Odyn, The Downs and the Natural Burial ground (or maybe venture to Culverhouse Cross for food) and to the south the Crematorium.

It has been great to talk to people and be reminded of footpaths forgotten. At times I was aware that I was walking in the footsteps of people long gone and the sense that it was my turn now to tread these ancient paths. The silence created by the loss of traffic enabled me to hear nature’s sounds and helped transport me back in time. My walks have been many and varied (no waterways though apart from Wrinstone and Cadoxton Brooks and distant views of the channel) and range from just a couple of miles to 8 miles. The most joyous moments came from meeting friends and nature: drifts of wild garlic followed by orchids and drifts of bluebells, leopard’s bane, new-born lambs, butterflies and birds taking wing, towering trees. and the whole covered by many scents including garlic, bluebells and lilac. 2020 is definitely a spring to be remembered.

 

 



 

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