Ewenny – A Glorious Morning
As we approached Ewenny Priory, to park, we could hear shooting. Leaving the cars the sound intensified and the dog that was with us jumped back into the car and started to shake. We could see men, down on the banks of the river Ewenny, holding rifles with which they were shooting ducks and there were dogs retrieving them. As we set off, the dog had to be carried for the first few hundred metres. We passed a couple of men stood on the side of the footpath, one of whom was holding a dead duck. None of us particularly enjoyed that start.
But it was a glorious morning, icy cold with full sunshine, as all our Saturdays have been in January. This makes walking so much easier as even the muddiest stretches become firm paths.
We were heading for Castle-upon-Alun and as soon as we had climbed above Ewenny we could see snow on the hills to the north where the wind turbines were visible against the clear blue sky.
As the morning warmed slightly layers were adjusted, as we crossed farmland and approached a copse of cedar trees. A frost covered summerhouse looked picturesque in a garden on the icy road to Castle-upon-Alun. Near the river the air was still misty, and a field of tall grasses was frozen white in the sunshine. We crossed the river via the stepping stones admiring the reflections and atmospheric views.
After a steep climb, we emerged onto a common where the views were excellent from the snow-clad hills in the north to the Vale spread below us. We considered having lunch here but it was too early.
Back to the river Alun, passing the Nature Reserve, and across the clapper bridge; a clapper bridge is made from stone slabs and was used by packhorses and walkers. Some stopped here for lunch while others continued to an open field where we could sit in the sun. It was so warm that coats were abandoned to fully enjoy the relaxing sunshine. A robin hopped about near us, lots of other birds sang and hazel catkins looked lovely against the blue sky.
We climbed again to reach the railway, this time crossing the live rails (carefully). A farm had an enormous number of black plastic wrapped bales
White hens clucked away in their run and the few sheep in the next field stopped and stared. At this point we had extensive views over the beautiful Vale of Glamorgan.
Large flocks of sheep grazed a mud-spattered field, heads down munching on the tops of a root crop and grass. At a brick stables a horse held his head over the wall so that he could watch us as we walked past. Bridgend and Ewenny came back into view below us, and we noted how much snow had melted on the hills. A white vinca flower shone out from its glossy leaves under a tree. We walked down the road between Corntown and Ewenny and along a footpath back to the priory.
On return to Ewenny Priory most of us turned into the churchyard to explore the ruins, maintained by CADW, and the church. William de Londres was a Norman knight, and leading invader of Glamorgan, who built the priory as a ‘Highway to Heaven’. This was another takeover; there is evidence that the Welsh were already using it for Christian worship. The walls around the priory make it look like a castle. Monasteries were abolished by Henry VIII in the 16th century, and a private house (19thC) replaced the monastery, but the church remained as the parish church; worship at Ewenny Priory church of St Michael has been continuous for at least 900 years. It is a peaceful place with many interesting artefacts.
The nave of the parish church was probably separated from the monastic end by a screen as was usually the case in medieval times. A pulpitum screen, created by Swansea artist, Alexander Beleschenko, was installed in 2006. The glass represents the Resurrection of Christ; an empty cross has clouds of butterflies emerging from it, symbolising the resurrection of the soul. The National Museum of Wales has a JMW Turner drawing of ‘the transept of Ewenny Priory’ which was shown at the Royal Academy.
The short days of January encourage us to stay local and although this walk is known for its spring flowers, we thoroughly enjoyed it in January. Tea at the garden centre was very welcome.
Walk 7. 6m 880ft Map OS151
