Wye Valley


Wye Valley


At last, we have freedom to travel for our walks and to meet in increasing numbers. Four of us travelled to Goodrich Castle (English Heritage) in Herefordshire for a walk beside the river Wye.

The beginning of the walk was along the road to Kerne bridge, a beautiful old stone bridge with several arches. Despite the traffic on the road this stretch was spectacular as, we could see the outline of Goodrich Castle on the hill, a country house set back from the road and bright yellow fields of oil seed rape all with a backdrop of dramatic purple, grey heavy clouds and even though we knew we were in for a soaking of a different sort we soaked it up.

The country house, whose buildings are Grade I listed, was originally the refectory of the Augustinian, Flanesford Priory. Weakened by the Black Death the priory was one of the first to succumb at the Dissolution of the Monasteries.

At Kerne Bridge we descended to the footpath alongside the Wye and from the start we were accompanied by canoeists on the river, increasing in number as the day wore on. We spotted lots of swans on the river (some nesting) as well as mallards and two mandarin ducks.

The footpath was blocked by a fallen tree whose root ball seemed to be about 10ft high. Others had passed before us, so we were able to get around it. Walking through open fields we saw the usual symbol of spring, lambs aplenty but mostly in ‘gangs’ away from their ewes. Cows grazed with calves and we were lucky to see a calf suckling.

At Welsh Bicknor there is a flamboyant High Victorian Church and the youth hostel, a former rectory. The land is owned by the YHA and we noticed a couple of stylish, camouflaged glamping pods were being installed. We stopped here for lunch. A quick look around the outside of the church shows an amazing amount of decoration, including 3 arches in the porch besides the one above the door

We came upon a new memorial to a group of scientists who died when their aircraft caught fire 15,000ft above the Forest of Dean and plummeted to earth. It was on a return journey to RAF Defford, near Worcester, from South Wales. Alan Dower Blumlein, a driving force in the development of airborne radar, was one of the dead, along with other colleagues from EMI, the RAF and the Telecommunications Research Establishment (TRE). They were working on H2S radar which was a cutting edge “Air to Surface” radar system that went on to help win WWII. The plane was carrying the highly secret cavity magnetron and Sir Bernard Lovell (who was later knighted for his work at Jodrell Bank and had given up his seat on the plane to another scientist) sifted through the wreckage on the night of the crash to retrieve it. He was affected by the tragedy for the rest of his life. Blumlein’s wife is quoted on the memorial ‘If you have to die, this is a beautiful place’. The sacrifice of the 11 men is also remembered by a memorial stained-glass window which was installed at Goodrich Castle chapel on the 50th anniversary of the crash.

Continuing our walk one of us looked back and spotted a deer where we had just been. As we stopped and watched lots more followed and began to graze. Later as we passed woodland, we saw another herd of deer. How lucky was that two herds of fallow deer in one day?

As we approached Symonds Yat, we passed the grave of a child in his 16th year who drowned while bathing in the river. At an outcrop of rock, we could see two separate birds sat on nests but so far away it was difficult to identify them. Symonds Yat Rock viewpoint is well known as one of the best places in the country to watch peregrine falcons, so maybe we saw one.

We left the river on a path to Coppet Hill, climbing back to Goodrich village and then up to the castle.

What a fabulous walk, apart from one (very heavy) shower the sun shone all day, the area is beautiful with lots of interest, both historic and natural. This stretch of the River Wye, from Kerne Bridge to Coppet Hill, is shaped a bit like an upside-down heart. Goodrich Castle is red sandstone, dates mainly from 13th century and is worth exploring but the café was still open for refreshment, so we had tea and cake in the spring sunshine whilst wondering what the traffic on the M4 was going to be like on a bank holiday Friday.

Walk 9 miles, level walk apart from the climb back to Goodrich Castle at the end.